New (old) M8274 (1 Viewer)

[flyer91]

I found this old work horse for $350 on the local Craig's list.
The ad said "$350 FIRM" but the guy went to $250 without me doing anything other than stand there and watch him demonstrate that it worked.

In any case ....... I got it home and took a few pictures to post here.
I'll sell the mounting plate and the weird hitch mount ..... I'll be using a ARB bumper to mount it to my FJ40.

I was really looking hard at the Engo winches after reading the really positive reviews that the 4X4 rag reported on it (listed in one of the threads here) and another review I found on the 'net.
I mean at under $400 for the E12000 'delivered', and with the results of the how well they performed after the torture they put them through in the tests, it was difficult to pass on.

But I figured that I know the 8274 will have parts available for it for longer than I'm probably going to be around. And since my FJ is a '74 with a Saginaw power steering conversion (meaning that the 8274 is abut the only winch that I know that will fit between the frame horns) and because the rest of the FJ40 community pretty much 'expects' to see their brother FJ owners sporting 8274s, I went ahead and wrote the guy a check for it, and he loaded it in my vehicle for me.

I'll pull it apart this spring and go through it, update and rebuild what makes sense to, and then mount it behind the ARB Bull Bar (the new style one) and have a good winch for a fraction of the price of a new one (which BTW: for those looking to buy a new M8274-50 works out to right about $1220 on sale 'delivered' from Warn Factory Outlet @ $1469 and with the $250 Warn rebate ....... good through May 31, see: Warn Industries - Factory Authorized Rebate )


Here's some pictures ....

 

[flyer91]

More pictures .....

 

[flyer91]

The mount (set up for some weird hitch ....???) .....

 

[flyer91]

On the bench, and ready for surgery .......


[

 

[flyer91]

This might be a cool first upgrade .......

DOUBLEWINCH Power Head 2X6.5HP - Warn 8274 high mount twin motor winch upgrade - YouTube

About $1700 plus delivery though .........

 

[jsuthey]

Nice score on the 8274! Looks like a good deal,did it come with a control cable? Post up some more pics. when you get around to mounting it up.Looks like the box has a little crack in the corner any rust in there to be a concerned about?
My 8274 has some behind the cover under the solinoids,I am in the process of cleaning all the connections up for a test.

 

[flyer91]

Actually I 'didn't' get a control cable with it.
So, I ordered a male and female 4 pin, metal trailer connector off eBay ($9 delivered) and will make up my own controller using a mom SPDT switch mounted into a pistol grip I have from an old 35mm film camera.

There is some "patina" on the solenoid mounting plate, but no rust ... other than on the cover's screws.
There is surface rust on the drum, as well as some on the brake housing, but overall it looks like it will clean up nicely.

I also found a new-old-stock cover on eBay ($30 delivered) that's the generation after the cracked one that came with the winch.
It's still has the hole for the front connector, but the 'W' is red instead of the same color as the box.

If anybody needs one ...... they still have one more left, see:
Warn M8000 Winch Solenoid Cover / Housing Part # 28461 | eBay

I am looking at this 4.5 HP motor on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Winch-Motor-WARN-Spline-HEAVY/dp/B002T4U6HW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1
It looks like, that if I get this as well:
Amazon.com: WARN 15879 Pinion Splined Gear: Automotive

I will have a 4.5 HP winch, and be upgraded to a 20 splined drive.
BUT ....... I'm not sure if that's correct, and am really hoping somebody can confirm this will work, 'or ..... if I'm going off track ....... will advise me that it won't work, or I will have some other issues that I'm not seeing. (???)

I'm also trying to source the large disk brake pads I saw in a rebuild video on yuotube.
I see the ones gigglepin has, but the ones in the video looked to be solid disks as opposed to larger rings.
So that's another facet that I need to get my arms around, and am looking for some input to understand what's really needed.

I don't think I'll go with the ARB bumper after all.
After a closer look at the pdf installation file, it 'seems' that there is no easy way to use the old frame mounted tow hooks or shackles with the new version ARB, and it does away with the triangle pieces at the front of the frame horns.

So ........ I'll use a plasma cutter and just cut the top of my stock bumper to fit the plate my 8274 came with (after I narrow it) and cut a hole in the face for the fairlead. Then weld it all up so I can mount the 8274 between the frame horns (basically ..... just like the CCOT HFS winch bumper).

As you can see by my join date, I'm a fairly new FJ40 owner, and have been busy the past few weeks finding and buying a hard top, the winch, weather stripping/seals, and a bunch of other parts ..... and will be going to look at some 1974 doors this week.

I've ordered an abrasive blast cabinet (I've always wanted one) and 50 lbs of bead blast media, to get started on the cleaning of parts.
With the winch upgrade project, and cleaning the paint/rust off many other parts, the cabinet 'should' get some real use, and save me a lot of work!

I'll post more pictures here as I progress on the winch project.

 

[flyer91]

Here's a shot of it all disassembled.



It wasn't as easy to pull the drum off as I read others experienced, nor was getting the disk brake and inner hub off an easy task .... even with a puller (it required a 'lot' of force) ..... but the most difficult thing was getting the brake/cam shaft out of the housing.
Getting the bronze bushing behind the seal to release from the housing made removing this assembly the most difficult part of the entire job.

But it finally all came apart and shows very little sign of wear.
Even the drum's nylon thrust washer still has it's step.
The oil inside was a fairly dirty, but not thick or mud colored, so I feel fortunate to have found one this good.

I've received most of the new parts.
After I clean and bead blast the old parts that will be painted, I'll reassemble the winch with the new 4.5 HP, 20 spline DB Electric motor, and the other upgrade parts I ordered.

Oh Ya, I almost forgot ....... I had read that Warn will send a set of winch decals free of charge as a "one time thing" so I contacted Warn via their web site's 'customer contact' yesterday to see if that was correct, and if so .... request a set for my 8274 (I provided my winch part number, serial number and date code, along with my home address).
I received a reply today that they are on their way this week.
So ....... I think that's pretty cool, and outstanding support for a 32 year old product!!

 

[Sully73FJ40]

I am going through all of this as well with two winches. I have just posted it in my fj40 build thread. On the shaft in the upper housing I took my two and another guys to a machine shop to gave them pressed out. I also am adding a drain plug and fill plug while they are at the machine shop. The 4 impressions are crimps. Anyways check out my fj40 build thread I took pictures of everything and it appears I am only a step or two ahead of you all.

 

[flyer91]

Sully, I just read your build thread with great interest.
Looks like you are doing a great job with it!!

And thanks for the additional info on the 8274 that's there.
It was the first report that I saw demonstrating the same issues getting one apart that I had.

I have a fairly well equipped machine shop in my garage so I won't need to go out to press out the bearing/shaft.
But .... instead of re-swagging the cluster gear shaft back in like the factory did it, I'll just make up a small oval cap and drill/tap two holes in the case to attach it over the shaft boss, and hold the shaft in that way.
The swage/crimp is a bit of a funky way to do it ..... but certainly less expensive for Warn.

After reading your thread and seeing your comment about people not liking the DB motor, I searched on it and see the comments from 1911 about his experience.
So I'm canceling the order and will go to the 9.5 XP's motor even though it's $244 shipped from Amazon versus the ~$85 shipped from them for the DB.
I just don't want to take the chance .......

Anyway ...... thanks to both you 'and' 1911 for the posts on your experiences with your rebuilds.

 

[Sully73FJ40]

My understanding from Awl_Teq is that the shaft that holds the cluster gears will sit in there tight by friction without the need of re crimping. If you can find hhis thread you will see where I asked him about it.

Wish i had my own little machine shop : (

 

[flyer91]

I wouldn't be surprised to find that's correct, but I'll feel better if I secure mine (if I press it out).
I'll add an O-ring to the cap to seal it ....... just in case.

I bead blasted the brake housing and pawl/spring housing, as well as the fairlead frame.
I took the rollers apart and chucked the rollers and the roller axles in my lathe.
The Axles just needed some cleaning with a tool post grinder to get the rust off but I had to turn the rollers. Not only due to the rust, but because they had some significant burrs in them from the cable.

Here are some more pictures of the progress so far ...........


This is the short axle before the cleaning:


This is the short axle after the cleaning:


Long axle before:

 

[flyer91]

Long after:


This is the short roller showing the cable mark in it:

 

[flyer91]

Short roller being turned to take about a half thou off it:


Before and after, short and long rollers:


Machining area of my shop:

 

[flyer91]

Turned rollers and axles, bead blasted fairlead frame and brake housing, and pawl/spring housing.



I'll blast the drum and upper/lower housings next, along with a few other items.
Since the rust and my turning of the fairlead axles/rollers has removed the galvanized coatings, I use some metal sealer that I use on my lathe's ways and mill's table. It works pretty good with re-application about every 6 months or so. Or ... I might try some tool black too.
That assumes I end up using the metal fairlead.

My 9.5XP motor is due from Amazon on Monday.
And I still have to decide if I want to go to 150 ft of Amsteel, and if I do ..... a hawse fairlead or the poly rollers in my existing fairlead frame (the ones that are supposed to be for for synth rope(???).
Never used synth before ....... so I need to do some reading before I decide on the fairlead type if I do.