New oil thread

[marcfj60]

I wonder if the K&N I put in my Accord 10 years ago has contributed to its oil consumption. As I mentioned, it burns about 1/2 quart in 1,000 miles. It's 12 years old and has 135K on it. Maybe I'm just being too picky. Then again, maybe the original owners that put 25K on it in 2 years didn't have the best maintenance so this is the long-term result of that.

The Hundy has the OEM air filter. I've decided to stick with what the engineers at Toyota decided was the best option.

 

[SteveLCetc]

I've decided to stick with what the engineers at Toyota decided was the best option.

Definition of Engineer: Someone who can, with one dollar, do what anybody else can do with ten dollars.

I usually use OEM air filters myself, but a point of clarification: When engineers consider what is "the best option" they also include price and average usage. That's why sometimes it's good to beef up some component or another for some specified use - the fact they use an internally designed air filter means that their "air filter team" has designed an all around filter for average use to be changed at their recommended interval. I would be surprised if they didn't have an artificial setup with some grain size distribution dust and they measure restriction and effectiveness, then compare those with price of production, and out pops the answer. That doesn't mean we don't have different dust than their artificial gradation or shape, or if we pay $5 more for some specialized filter we won't be doing ourselves a favor.

That is generally the case for all components of a manufactured unit.

 

[gr8wrk]

My Tacoma has just a little over 8 grand on the clock so I'm kind of stuck with the factory maint. schedule until it's up. That said, I'm using Amsoil synthetics in both diffs, Amsoil air filter (dry) that I clean per their specs at oil changes. I use Mobil 1 5w-30 and OEM filters at 4 - 5k miles, always. Do tire rotation at the same time. It's habit. I get oil tested occasionally and it's always good.

Personally, while I don't buy into Steve's correlation, I'm 65 (kinda qualifies me as "old school") and switched to synthetics when they first appeared. I suspect there is something akin to "belief" attached to which is better. Good PM will usually see engines give good service for a long time, dino oil or synth.

I used Royal Purple in race engines for a long time, but testing never showed any significant difference between it and any of the others, Red Line, Amsoil, etc. At the end of the day, they all lubricate well, some just cost more. I think HOW you take care of your stuff is at least as important as what you use. It's like the old saying, oil is cheaper than parts.

 

[Cruisergreg]

I would be surprised if they didn't have an artificial setup with some grain size distribution dust and they measure restriction and effectiveness, then compare those with price of production, and out pops the answer...

This relates to Lurch's comment about fine dust in the intake. I used a K&N on the 60 2F for a bit and found that same fine dust in the carb when I never had before with an OEM filter. The K&N went away then. I've concluded that the fine dust is from the tuff in the Jemez, where we run around often and are often sucking in the person in front of you's dust. I think that particle size is just too small for a gauze filter (hold it up to light and you can see actual pinholes while with a paper filter all you see is diffused light).