need help with shackle hanger placement (1 Viewer)

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Jun 30, 2008
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Location
cheshire CT.
I'm putting fj60 springs in the rear and need some info on shackle hanger placement. Heres a couple of picts of what i have now with frame sitting somewhat level and with weight applied.There is 5in from frame to the center of eye. Do i need to place hanger forward form spring eye or back? and how much forward or back? please disregard the old hole in frame from PO shackle placement
thanks Rick

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I can't see the pics at work, but I used the factory 40 hangers and made a long shackle for the 60 springs and it works great.
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Back in the 90's

Way back when: spring overs, shackle reversals and sm420's were cutting edge technology and putting the bushing through the frame was the strongest and kept the lowest possible center of gravity.;)
You will need a traction bar @ the very least on a 40 especially w/ longer springs. I still have coarse spline pinions and drive it hard. :D Axle wrap and pinion angle are very important.
 
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I used stock FJ62 springs and shackles with the mounts coming from Ruff Stuff.

Flipped springs with this placement yielded 11" of extra wheel-base for me.

WOOOOO HOOOOOO!
That is what I was HOPING to hear!:bounce::bounce2:
Did you keep the spring hanger at the stock location when you did this?
How long is that rear shackle?
 
A Few Observations..

Captin Rick, and Bamma Bleach Both Photos of your Springs show the Millitary Wrap in the Inncorrect Position! When Flipping any Land Cruiser Springs (Front to Rear), you need to keep the Millitary wrap on the Frame Mounted side, not the Shackle.. This Requries Disasembling the Spring, and re Drilling the Main, and Wrap Spring for the Center Pin. This is VERY important, and will keep the springs working well, and strong, and "if" you do break a main leaf, the wrap leaf will keep it together till you get home!

I used the Ruff Stuff Way Back hanger on my 60 springs and am very happy!

On Shackle Angle, Ideal seems to be 45 Degrees

I Recently Switched up my front Springs from Under the frame With 0 Angle, to Through the Frame with about 40 Degrees of angle, and it Rides SOOO much better (Also lowered the front end by about an inch.)
 
WOOOOO HOOOOOO!
That is what I was HOPING to hear!:bounce::bounce2:
Did you keep the spring hanger at the stock location when you did this?
How long is that rear shackle?
The front fixed hanger is further back then the stock location. I knew where I wanted the shackle hanger so once I got the shackle angle where I wanted it I could measure to see where the front fixed hanger would be. Does that make sense?

Not sure on shackle length...whatever stock FJ62 is.

I just flipped my front springs and put the shackle through the frame to get lower and longer. I'm at an overall wheel-base of about 104.5" now. Very happy with the way it turned out.


A Few Observations..

Captin Rick, and Bamma Bleach Both Photos of your Springs show the Millitary Wrap in the Inncorrect Position!
Yeah I just grabbed those pics from my build thread. In it I gave a disclaimer on how the main leaf needed to be re-drilled for the proper location of the military wrap. Those pics were from mock up.
 
This Requries Disasembling the Spring, and re Drilling the Main, and Wrap Spring for the Center Pin. This is VERY important, and will keep the springs working well, and strong, and "if" you do break a main leaf, the wrap leaf will keep it together till you get home!
.)

seems extra holes in a main leaf would make a failure happen even faster.

I would not recomend drilling a mainleaf.
 
seems extra holes in a main leaf would make a failure happen even faster.

I would not recomend drilling a mainleaf.

:popcorn: Agreed, Drilling another hole will weeken it. but its stronger to have 2 leafs attached at the frame side (with extra holes), than 1.

I Drilled my Fj60 springs and have been "testing" them hard for the past 3 years with no issues.

EDIT: on second though i guess you just need to flip and Drill the Wrap leaf, not the main leaf.
 
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