need help w/ clutch & brakes on the 40

[Domek]

Well I have been drivinng my 40 around the shop and palying with it.

I can't seem to get the clutch to work right(tansmission SM465) nor the brakes(14 bolt rear disc brakes).

let's go with the clutch first.

Clutch works fine and shifts OK through all the gears when in movement. The exception is the 1stlow/granny gear AND reverse.

The problem is when I try to put it on 1stlo/granny gear or reverse, will not go in. I have to press/step twice the cluch for it to go in and work.

Sometimes I hear the pressure plate engaged and something spining but the gear won't go in.

What am I missing here?

Brakes


we did rear disck brakes on the 14 bolt. The toy 40 axel had already rear disk brakes and pedal was high and hard.

I think I mentioned on a previous thread one step forward 2 steps backward.

We finished the rear disck conversion and we could not get the pedal to where it was before(hard when press) as we bled the brakes, Brake lines needed to be change.

We changed the whole rear brake lines first. We then proceeded to the ones in front, from the master cylinder to the passenger side. The only part missing to be changed is from the passenger side to the rear.

Dislikes: the pedal is to soft and it does not break as quick as it was before, rear tires lock up but not front.

What's wrong with in this?



Note: As I write this, there's 3 different shootings/ War zones( AK riffles & granades sounds) happening on the Mexican side. Wife and kids are safe on the US side. Love this Part, BRIDGE IS OPEN FOR BID'NESS! DO NOT panic My friends, US Customs or Border Patrol has not closed the border yet!


Focus on the technical questions and not the shootings! he! he!




.

 

[66fj40x2]

Not sure on the clutch but may need to adjust the slave cylinder.

Do you have a proportioning valve on the rear discs? Soft pedal sounds like air in the lines, but a proportioning valve should let you back off he rear brakes to keep them from locking up and bleeding the fronts and checking for leaks or soft (if they're rubber) lines.

 

[Bossman]

Mike's on the right track. You need a proportioning valve to send more fluid to the front cylinders. You want about 70% of your brake effort to the front wheels. You are looking for the front wheels to lock up first (try this out on a nice gravel road at low speed). Summit has 'em for something like $40-$50. Replace any old/soft brake lines and bleed the brakes well.

For the clutch -I had a similar problem. I have to run an early ('68 I think) clutch master with a later slave. Also have to have it (the slave) adjusted so that the throw out bearing barely kisses the clutch fingers all the time. This is not good for the throw out bearing but it's the only way I can get enough travel out if the slave to fully disengage the clutch.

Hope that helps some JP.

 

[Texican]

Josh had to install a different master cylinder on his, we used a 76 Corvette as I have used these in the past on one ton conversions.......it is OEM designed for 4 wheel discs, has the same size reservoirs for both ends, and works very well......you can make your own adapter from Toyota booster to this or Profitts Cruisers sells one.......
Josh is running Dana 60 stock brakes up front and 14 bolt with the GM PU calipers in the rear
Try adjusting the rod under the dash for the clutch master longer........

 

[66fj40x2]

Butch, are you using the power or non-power master?

 

[Texican]

No such thing as a non power 76 Vette........AFAIK

 

[66fj40x2]

Sorry, hadn't had enuff coffee yet, should have said manual. RockAuto.com is showing masters for power and manual brakes with either a 1 1/8" bore for power and 1" bore for manual. I'd assume the power master is what you used then.....

 

[Texican]

get it local, cheap, and if ya got problems warranty is local, reman is what I use

 

[Domek]

well, thanks for the replies!

I forgot! ...in the front I am running the 40 axel, not D60.
I got all hardlines and no proportioning valve that I know of.

so need a proportioning valve and it will solve the locking of the back end first (check)

The slave cylinder is new. I will go back and adjusted again!

 

[Texican]

The slave cylinder is new. I will go back and adjusted again!

Adjust under the dash, not the slave.

 

[Domek]

Adjust under the dash, not the slave.

10-4 sir! I spoke w/ my dad this morning about the same issue and he told me the same thing.

 

[DSLTOY]

Another possible issue with the clutch is the throwout bearing arm. I have had trouble with the stamped metal arms, the cast steel arms work better. Do you have the rear calipers mounted with the bleeder pointing up?

 

[Domek]

Another possible issue with the clutch is the throwout bearing arm. I have had trouble with the stamped metal arms, the cast steel arms work better. Do you have the rear calipers mounted with the bleeder pointing up?

..As far as the arm I have the cast steel one from advance adapters. well, I bought it from them.


..and yes the bleeder is pointing up.

I went today to my buddy's shop to work on the body, right now we are working on the rocker panels since the ones I had were rotten big time.

Next Saturday I'll go back to the mechanical part.

I did notice that the slave cylinder piston needs to be align slightly to the driver side in order to be straight like and arrow. Right now it's slightly to the passenger side.