Just curious, between dry ice blast and wax coating (fluid film), is there any primer/paint coating? If the result of the blasting is good, I would (at lesst) consider a good coat of epoxy primer before the wax
Builds My First Land Cruiser - Cdn š BJ60 "Wabi Sabi" (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter PapaGiamati
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Mind you my BJ62 has nearly zero underbody rust, i fluid filmed and am never looking back EVER!
I did it myself, I bought a gallon of FF Black, and bought and applicator gun, and just sprayed everything. Now I donāt worry about my frame rusting. Even though I donāt drive it in the winter anyways.
I did it myself, I bought a gallon of FF Black, and bought and applicator gun, and just sprayed everything. Now I donāt worry about my frame rusting. Even though I donāt drive it in the winter anyways.
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- #203
@lacalvette @Gimme a 60
Looking like the fluid film + Krown for like $165.00 is the way to go. Ill be moving to Oregon state next year so im really only worried about driving it in the snow this winter. So a nice coating of the aforementioned should deal well this winter.
The other place in Calgary is Dry Ice Blasting Calgary | Expert Dry Ice Cleaning Services - https://www.cerberusautostyling.ca/dry-ice-blasting. Their work seems good, and it would make the underside of the truck look factory fresh, just really expensive. Is the juice worth the squeeze?
Looking like the fluid film + Krown for like $165.00 is the way to go. Ill be moving to Oregon state next year so im really only worried about driving it in the snow this winter. So a nice coating of the aforementioned should deal well this winter.
The other place in Calgary is Dry Ice Blasting Calgary | Expert Dry Ice Cleaning Services - https://www.cerberusautostyling.ca/dry-ice-blasting. Their work seems good, and it would make the underside of the truck look factory fresh, just really expensive. Is the juice worth the squeeze?
My point is that Iām worried about what happen after such a treatment (dry ice blast). It will leave some area (if not all) to bare metal. Just a wax coating wonāt be good enough on long.
If it is just to clean the undercarriage , you could use a hot water/ soap pressure washer.
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- #205
Took the truck out with some friends for a weekend of shooting in the backcountry. Found some mud along the way.
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Hahah sweet engine bay shot! Good times had for sure!
diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
Proper Cruiser usage.
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- #208
And that was after I got home from the car wash! Completely forgot to look under the hoodā¦
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- #209
So my alternator started acting funny last week and wouldnāt put voltage out.
It completely died on my for good last night coming home from work.
I tested the voltage on the IC regulator and it says ~25V which according to the manual is a replacement. So I ordered one from Dan at 4 wheel.
Should be here this week and I can keep cruising without issues.
It completely died on my for good last night coming home from work.
I tested the voltage on the IC regulator and it says ~25V which according to the manual is a replacement. So I ordered one from Dan at 4 wheel.
Should be here this week and I can keep cruising without issues.
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Tried hosing out the alternator after your mud bath?
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- #211
I did, however it was losing voltage occasionally long before I did the mud bath. So the intermittent issue became permanent now.
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- #212
Tackled the axle seals finally today with the help of a buddy.
Everything inside the diff looked good! Or so to my untrained eyes.
The brakes were a mess of diff fluid and mud after that last trip. They sorely needed to be taken apart.
I think the wear looks good.
Drive shafts were in good Nick.
Had that washer above the pinion gear fall out once, had no idea where it came from. Freaked me out til I found the mega zip diagram and found out where it came from. Sneaky things.
A little bit of wear on the spacer.
Everything inside the diff looked good! Or so to my untrained eyes.
The brakes were a mess of diff fluid and mud after that last trip. They sorely needed to be taken apart.
I think the wear looks good.
Drive shafts were in good Nick.
Had that washer above the pinion gear fall out once, had no idea where it came from. Freaked me out til I found the mega zip diagram and found out where it came from. Sneaky things.
A little bit of wear on the spacer.
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- Thread starter
- #213
Wear on the axle seal surfaces and the splines.
Pretty diff cover.
Pretty diff cover.
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- Thread starter
- #214
Also found some more rust holes through the frame. Same issue on both sides. 
This pic is from the drivers side where the frame starts to go up above the rear axle. More to cut and weld later.
Then we got beers to celebrate the axle win
This pic is from the drivers side where the frame starts to go up above the rear axle. More to cut and weld later.
Then we got beers to celebrate the axle win
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The crown wheel teeth look worn but nothing serious. It's the pre load on the pinion bearings that wants checking - leave it with zero pre-load for long enough and it can wear expensive parts (been there).
Those C clips are fiddly, but they are the only thing holding your axle in! I was not much impressed with the rear bearing design on the semi-floating 60 rear axle, it's easy to change the bearing but the rollers act directly on the axle half shaft, so if that wears you need to find replacements (and they are NLA from Toyota). Good to see that yours are perfect. The Hilux design is better IMO but needs a press and to change a bearing.
Easy chassis weld to fix that, so long as the tank does not need to come out
Those C clips are fiddly, but they are the only thing holding your axle in! I was not much impressed with the rear bearing design on the semi-floating 60 rear axle, it's easy to change the bearing but the rollers act directly on the axle half shaft, so if that wears you need to find replacements (and they are NLA from Toyota). Good to see that yours are perfect. The Hilux design is better IMO but needs a press and to change a bearing.
Easy chassis weld to fix that, so long as the tank does not need to come out
Thank you Papa! Just read your whole build, possibly up there with one of the happiest builds on mud. I normally hang out in 70s and diesel but you 60s guys are good fun.
I lived in rural japan a life time ago, a work friend wrote a song which he played on his ukele, all earnest, 'wabi sabi girl'. Lyrics included waiting for her after the onsen so long that his hair would freeze, but she was wabi and sabi, so it was ok.
It is a beautiful japanese concept along with shibui.
All the best!
I lived in rural japan a life time ago, a work friend wrote a song which he played on his ukele, all earnest, 'wabi sabi girl'. Lyrics included waiting for her after the onsen so long that his hair would freeze, but she was wabi and sabi, so it was ok.
It is a beautiful japanese concept along with shibui.
All the best!
- Thread starter
- #217
Got the truck back from Krown rust prevention. Looks good to me so far. Letās see how it holds up!
And they owned this plow truck for their property!! Pretty slick.
And they owned this plow truck for their property!! Pretty slick.
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- Thread starter
- #218
the new 12V regulator came from 4WheelAuto today! I had been driving around with no output from the alternator for a week. Some funky electronic things happen when your regulator is busted. Couple flickering lights on the dash at idle, and not as much glow in the mornings. I trickle charged the batteries each night to make sure she kept up all week. Glad to have this issue resolved.
Went about installing brand new brushes I picked up from Toyota into the spare brush holder I have. I ended up snapping both brushes off the spare set the other day by accident, by being lazy in my work. Oh well, it was only a $30 mistake.
Here are all the players of todays game.
I first had to use my solder iron to release the broken brushes from the holder.
Once I had those popped out, I put some flux on the copper wires of the new brushes and added some solder to them to give them a bit of rigidity, in order to pull them through the holes of the brush holder.
I then fished some thread through the hole of the brush holder and then tied that to the end of the brush wire. Once that was set up, just had to pull the thread and the new brush wire through the hole, and solder a bit of the wire up to keep it in place! It sounds easy but it was a longer process to figure out what worked best.
Then once I had added some more solder to make sure those brushes were not going anywhere, I cut them down to size.
And after about an hour of play time, I had a brand new set of brushes with a brand new 12V regulator!
Went about installing brand new brushes I picked up from Toyota into the spare brush holder I have. I ended up snapping both brushes off the spare set the other day by accident, by being lazy in my work. Oh well, it was only a $30 mistake.
Here are all the players of todays game.
I first had to use my solder iron to release the broken brushes from the holder.
Once I had those popped out, I put some flux on the copper wires of the new brushes and added some solder to them to give them a bit of rigidity, in order to pull them through the holes of the brush holder.
I then fished some thread through the hole of the brush holder and then tied that to the end of the brush wire. Once that was set up, just had to pull the thread and the new brush wire through the hole, and solder a bit of the wire up to keep it in place! It sounds easy but it was a longer process to figure out what worked best.
Then once I had added some more solder to make sure those brushes were not going anywhere, I cut them down to size.
And after about an hour of play time, I had a brand new set of brushes with a brand new 12V regulator!
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- Thread starter
- #219
Then I was EXTREMELY careful in mounting the new brush holder into the alternator. Made sure I didnāt bust any brushes by adding lateral forces to them.
Once that was in, I finally got around to replacing that o-ring at the back of the alternator for the vacuum pump (?) I think? Either way itās replaced and no longer seeping oil out.
After replacement. New o-ring is blue compared to black! Fun stuff.
Then went for a 20 minute drive and all was working perfectly again!
What a relief. Until the next issue!
Once that was in, I finally got around to replacing that o-ring at the back of the alternator for the vacuum pump (?) I think? Either way itās replaced and no longer seeping oil out.
After replacement. New o-ring is blue compared to black! Fun stuff.
Then went for a 20 minute drive and all was working perfectly again!
What a relief. Until the next issue!
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- Thread starter
- #220
Found some 3d printable fj60 lense backings for the front side markers.
link: FJ60 Side Marker by chooch12 - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4679508
Sent them off to a local 3d print shop and had them printed for $63 Canadian pesos. ($45 freedom bucks)
Had them back in 2 days and slapped them on today. Turns out the holders are integrated into the light. I assumed the light has a seperate piece. So itās held together now by electrical tape but Iāll have to buy some connectors and solder them onto the wiring cause itāll rattle the light out shortly Iām sure.
Would I say this was worth $63? Maybe, but honestly itās about the same price to just order new ones if youāre in the states. But Iāll take the 3d print ācoolā factor being an engineer myself.
link: FJ60 Side Marker by chooch12 - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4679508
Sent them off to a local 3d print shop and had them printed for $63 Canadian pesos. ($45 freedom bucks)
Had them back in 2 days and slapped them on today. Turns out the holders are integrated into the light. I assumed the light has a seperate piece. So itās held together now by electrical tape but Iāll have to buy some connectors and solder them onto the wiring cause itāll rattle the light out shortly Iām sure.
Would I say this was worth $63? Maybe, but honestly itās about the same price to just order new ones if youāre in the states. But Iāll take the 3d print ācoolā factor being an engineer myself.
