Build My First Land Cruiser - Cdn 🍁 BJ60 "Wabi Sabi"

[PapaGiamati]

Hi PG

I have given up on finding a genuine upper radiator hose for my BJ60, see picture below of BJ40, BJ60 (old) and BJ70 hoses.

My 3Bii BJ60 uses the same upper radiator hose as yours, have you found a source over there for an aftermarket hose?

Luckily for me, but sadly for you I have not had to replace mine as of yet.
I did some digging of my usual sources and didn't find much for Part # 16571-58011. But some more internet sleuthing showed me the following links.

Source 1 - Part number 16571-58011 - TPD
Source 2 - Part number 16571-58011 - Forklift place
Source 3 - Part number 16571-58011 - CruiserParts LLC

Give one of those a shot? I tried my local toyota parts centre for new old stock but waiting on a response.

 

[PapaGiamati]

So as I've put 3,000km on the BJ60 so far since the engine "rebuild", there are some other gremlins rearing their ugly heads.

1) Mysterious brake fluid leak. The brakes have been slowly losing fluid over the past few week after a long trip back from Crowsnest Pass. I think i blew a rear wheel cylinder, as the rear drivers side tyre was covered in some sort of fluid on the inside. So I bought some advics/aisin rear wheel cylinders to replace the aftermarket cheap ones I installed. The issue persisted. Nothing changed after I replaced it. The smell of the fluid seemed more like diff fluid than brake fluid. I looked around for other leak locations, but couldn't find any locations of puddling or spraying brake fluid. I'm very confused.

2) Leaky axle seals, both fronts have turned into birfield soup inside. both knuckles are very leaky. The rear drivers side leak from the drum brake makes me believe that the axle seal is gone and is leaking instead of the brand new brake cylinder... I bought all the parts required for a rebuild. Once I do that, and if the area still has a leak, I guess I've got 2 bad rear wheel cylinders in a row!

3) Transmission leak is getting worse. looks like the leak is coming from the output shaft seals from the front. Not good. I dont have the time or want to spend the $$$ right now for a rebuild as this is my only daily driver and I'm focused on retiring the 1980's suspension first. Looks like ill just keep topping it off all winter.

4) Exhaust bracket damage, when I get the truck stuck on that hill and mashed the tail pipe into the truck, I clearly bent the exhaust brackets and sheared the one behind the muffler right off. Not really a big deal, but something to be addressed in the longer term.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Luckily for me, but sadly for you I have not had to replace mine as of yet.
I did some digging of my usual sources and didn't find much for Part # 16571-58011. But some more internet sleuthing showed me the following links.

Source 1 - Part number 16571-58011 - TPD
Source 2 - Part number 16571-58011 - Forklift place
Source 3 - Part number 16571-58011 - CruiserParts LLC

Give one of those a shot? I tried my local toyota parts centre for new old stock but waiting on a response.

Thanks for such a fast response, and for doing some searching

TPD - I checked Toyotapartsdeal (I don't recommend them at all based on multiple bad experiences, but they have a pretty up to date catalogue) and they, like Amayama in Japan, show the part as being discontinued. I don't think companies like TPD keep any stock, so I'm 99.9 % sure it would be a dead end.

Forklift place - one of those great North American websites that blocks people from 'funny' countries, but I'm guessing the same story as above?

Cruiserparts - I have had mostly bad experiences with these guys, but I'll check with them. Usually stuff like this turns out not to be in stock any longer.

Would be awesome if your local parts place has an old one Or two, for you to have spare. I can arrange a postal address in Canada...

Thanks very much indeed

EO

 

[PapaGiamati]

Thanks for such a fast response, and for doing some searching

That seems to be the struggle hey, ill see what the lads at Toyota say, but cant imagine it will be much different from some generic internet searching!

Best of luck in finding a replacement! When in doubt just go silicone hoses for some serious power with that 15BT

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

So as I've put 3,000km on the BJ60 so far since the engine "rebuild", there are some other gremlins rearing their ugly heads.

1) Mysterious brake fluid leak. The brakes have been slowly losing fluid over the past few week after a long trip back from Crowsnest Pass. I think i blew a rear wheel cylinder, as the rear drivers side tyre was covered in some sort of fluid on the inside. So I bought some advics/aisin rear wheel cylinders to replace the aftermarket cheap ones I installed. The issue persisted. Nothing changed after I replaced it. The smell of the fluid seemed more like diff fluid than brake fluid. I looked around for other leak locations, but couldn't find any locations of puddling or spraying brake fluid. I'm very confused.

Sadly, I think you may find that your master cylinder has failed and the brake fluid is in your booster. If you act quickly before it rusts out the booster you could hopefully save it.

2) Leaky axle seals, both fronts have turned into birfield soup inside. both knuckles are very leaky. The rear drivers side leak from the drum brake makes me believe that the axle seal is gone and is leaking instead of the brand new brake cylinder... I bought all the parts required for a rebuild. Once I do that, and if the area still has a leak, I guess I've got 2 bad rear wheel cylinders in a row!

Should be easy to check if it's brake fluid or transmission oil. Have you checked your axle breathers? typically they stop working and then the axles pressurise, blowing oil past the seals. I've never known a wheel cylinder to leak, but it must be possible.

3) Transmission leak is getting worse. looks like the leak is coming from the output shaft seals from the front. Not good. I dont have the time or want to spend the $$$ right now for a rebuild as this is my only daily driver and I'm focused on retiring the 1980's suspension first. Looks like ill just keep topping it off all winter.

Annoying... but unless it's really losing oil quickly, not too urgent in my opinion. A transfer rebuild is pretty easy, and can be done without removing the transmission as a whole, especially if you are just changing seals. But be prepared to find worn parts that require a bit more $$$ to replace

4) Exhaust bracket damage, when I get the truck stuck on that hill and mashed the tail pipe into the truck, I clearly bent the exhaust brackets and sheared the one behind the muffler right off. Not really a big deal, built something to be addressed in the longer term.

Should be an easy welding job. The rubber mounts are still available thankfully.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Regards the hose, I think I found one, in Australia of all places (strange, since they never had the BJ60). I think I saw this years ago but was holding out for a genuine one.

When in doubt just go silicone hoses for some serious power with that 15BT

Oh, not those blue silicone hoses!

 

[PapaGiamati]

Truck has been running almost flawlessly for some time now. Minimal corrective maintenance as expected.

Couple adventures done in it. Going to need that suspension soon. The ride is so brutal.

Ended up replacing the rear drivers side brake cylinder again cause the brake light would come on every 3 days and I would have to top up the brake fluid. The rear drivers side tyre as always covered in fluid. So I assumed that was the issue even with the new advics brake cylinders.

Anyway, replaced the new (leaky) one with the el cheap o one from rock auto that wasn’t leaking.

Then swapped the brake pads on the front as they were making a clicking noise when I would brake. The pads were worn and loose in the calliper. And one of those little spring clips was ground away by the rotor! So that explains what that noise was.

Picture of old pads, they weren't really that old, I had just bought new ones, and since they're relatively cheap, I just did the job. I really enjoy how easy the pads are to replace on this caliper!

Ended up ordering all new seals and gaskets for the rear axle as I figured that the leak may be from the axle. But since I was losing brake fluid, I doubt it. I have them now for future work.

The front seals need to be done too. It’s birfield soup up there…

 

[PapaGiamati]

Hmmm so my theory seems to be out the window. But more testing to be done.

I had to take the drum off again cause I adjusted the brakes too tight and she was smoking on my commute to work today! No damage as I don’t commute to far but she was hot hot.

Popped it off and adjusted it back. But noted there was already oil in the drum. Hence the smoke, so likely it’s the axle seal.

But that leads to another question, where is all that brake fluid going?!? ive gone through almost a whole large jug of brake fluid and i have not found any other "wet spots" under the truck or areas where i can find a pinhole leak in a hardline.

any ideas other than EO who mentioned the booster could be leaking from the inside?? it looks dry so nothing coming out.
but there is so much fluid loss, im very lost. help is appreciated!

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Hmmm so my theory seems to be out the window. But more testing to be done.

I had to take the drum off again cause I adjusted the brakes too tight and she was smoking on my commute to work today! No damage as I don’t commute to far but she was hot hot.

Popped it off and adjusted it back. But noted there was already oil in the drum. Hence the smoke, so likely it’s the axle seal.

View attachment 3706514

View attachment 3706515
View attachment 3706516
But that leads to another question, where is all that brake fluid going?!? ive gone through almost a whole large jug of brake fluid and i have not found any other "wet spots" under the truck or areas where i can find a pinhole leak in a hardline.

any ideas other than EO who mentioned the booster could be leaking from the inside?? it looks dry so nothing coming out.
but there is so much fluid loss, im very lost. help is appreciated!

View attachment 3706518

See how the paint is peeling off your booster below the master cylinder. Almost guaranteed your brake fluid is in the booster, I'm afraid. It's 4 nuts to take it off and find out, you shouldn't need to loosen any lines.

 

[PapaGiamati]

See how the paint is peeling off your booster below the master cylinder. Almost guaranteed your brake fluid is in the booster, I'm afraid. It's 4 nuts to take it off and find out, you shouldn't need to loosen any lines.

hmmm - yeah ill take it off next weekend when I have some time!
Guessing I can just buy another one? And advice before I take it off? Never dealt with one of these before.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

hmmm - yeah ill take it off next weekend when I have some time!
Guessing I can just buy another one? And advice before I take it off? Never dealt with one of these before.

I have been in that situation a couple of times, and sourced a good used booster both times. The brake fluid is hygroscopic and when filled with water, can corrode the booster and cause it to fail. Also, if the rubber diaphragms inside the booster are nitrile rubber, the brake fluid will degrade them. Maybe someone knows a good way to rinse the booster out (perhaps isopropyl alcohol, definitely not acetone or thinner) but I have never tried. There are shops that can rebuild them, but with no source of genuine parts, I would wonder what they replace the worn parts with.

And if the master cylinder is indeed leaking, I would remove the pistons to check. Almost certainly it will be corroded inside and therefore should be replaced. Master cylinders can be sleeved, but almost certainly not worth it with cheap Aisin OEM cylinders still available.

 

[PapaGiamati]

I have been in that situation a couple of times, and sourced a good used booster both times. The brake fluid is hygroscopic and when filled with water, can corrode the booster and cause it to fail. Also, if the rubber diaphragms inside the booster are nitrile rubber, the brake fluid will degrade them. Maybe someone knows a good way to rinse the booster out (perhaps isopropyl alcohol, definitely not acetone or thinner) but I have never tried. There are shops that can rebuild them, but with no source of genuine parts, I would wonder what they replace the worn parts with.

And if the master cylinder is indeed leaking, I would remove the pistons to check. Almost certainly it will be corroded inside and therefore should be replaced. Master cylinders can be sleeved, but almost certainly not worth it with cheap Aisin OEM cylinders still available.

yikes, looks like ill be lining up some parts to tackle this in a few weekends from now!

Thanks for the heads up!

 

[PapaGiamati]

Took the truck to the Ghost - Public Land Use area and hit up the Black Rock mountain summit. Sadly the fire lookout was destroyed in the last 2 years or so. But the truck handled the drive extremely well - even with the worn out 80s suspension. I really want the new suspension now...

Still need to replace the brake MC - I have a new one sitting on my bench ready for installation. Just need to find the time and someone to assist me in bleeding the brakes when its all said and done.

 

[lacalvette]

Really nice, how difficult is the trail to reach the summit?

 

[PapaGiamati]

Really nice, how difficult is the trail to reach the summit?

870m of elevation, 5km to the top and 5km back. I would say its "hard" if you don't do this kind of activity regularly. My friend didnt make the summit cause his legs gave out cause he doesn't hike much.
If you hike a lot, its not difficult.

 

[PapaGiamati]

@Eurasiaoverland, you were bang on.

Turns out I did this job in 30 minutes by myself. Bench bled the MC and slapped it on, no issues! pedal feel is much better than before.

I still want to take it back out again and see how much brake fluid I can get out of the master vacuum. I feel there is A LOT in there.

Then I want to swap back the Aisin rear wheel cylinder I thought was leaking!

 

[PapaGiamati]

Now that I’m not worried about hydraulic systems on the truck anymore.

Took apart the clutch MC and cleaned all the chunkies out and pushed new fluid through until it ran perfectly clean.

 

[PapaGiamati]

Another easy one.

Clutch fork boot was very much turning into dust. Feels good to have this buttoned up before it rains more and the snow comes.

**and don’t worry about the return spring not being in the photos, I did this job after work really quick so just snapped photos as I went**

 

[PapaGiamati]

Couple projects this weekend.

A few days ago I ended up pulling the passenger side pull tabs right off the door.

That was first in the list.

Turns out the bolt just fell out of the door. Luckily it was really noticeable when I pulled the door card off.
Easy fix

While I was in there I added some left over pads of sound dampener to the door. Then re sealed the vapour Barrier with some heavy duty painter plastic drop sheet.

Don’t judge me too hard. Should hold up with the sound deadening adhesive. If not, I can always do it again! Wasn’t too hard a job.

Those window winder clips are a b**** though.

 

[PapaGiamati]

Next i wanted to replace the rock auto brake cylinder with the Aisin one that I had since I had re-done the brake master cylinder.

As it turns out, the Aisin brake cylinder was leaking!! Not good.
So a bunch of time wasted on that. I need to re-do that axle seal soon, it was reaaaallly gooey in there.

I got a bit off track and ended up sanding one of the wheel wells clean of the surface rust and tried my hand at painting it up again, just to see if the colour match was good and how it would turn out once I try some more serious body work.

Turned out alright! I’ll have to re-do it again once I properly cut that rust out and re-weld a new piece in. I’m just too nervous to dive into it since it’s my daily now.


I’m also looking into those undercoating businesses. Both were close to $3500 CAD for a full dry ice blasting and wax undercoating. Good for something like 1000hrs of winter driving.

I’m kind of cheap so I think I’m going to get Krown to undercoat the truck then hit any extra spots with Fluid Film before this winter…