M12000 Winch - What Fuse to use? (3 Viewers)

[Randy88FJ62]

I bought a Warn M12000 winch a few years back used. I finally wired it up and installed it on my ARB bumper. I dawned on me as I finished for the evening that the hot wire going to the battery was not fused. This could cause a fire or worse in the event of an accident or short.

What do people use to fuse these amp hungry winches? I know to fuse the winch at the battery so the entire length of hot wire is protected.

I did a quick search and found nothing. Thought I'd try asking here before contacting the manufacturer.

Thanks.

 

[RockDoc]

I fused mine the same as the lead to the starter.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I fused mine the same as the lead to the starter.

yeah yeah...

The other idea I was looking at was using a battery disconnect. I have a marine battery switch Off, 1, 2, both, that I was going to use for dual batteries. I was thinking of installing that at a minimum.

Maybe install a plug and keep it unplugged until needed?

 

[george_tlc]

Use the marine switch, assuming you chose a decent one that can handle 500A+ for some time. Leave it off until you are on the trail.

The marine switch setup is what I've used on both my m12000 on the 80 and 8274 on my patrol, never had an issue in many many years.

cheers,
george.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Use the marine switch, assuming you chose a decent one that can handle 500A+ for some time. Leave it off until you are on the trail.

The marine switch setup is what I've used on both my m12000 on the 80 and 8274 on my patrol, never had an issue in many many years.

cheers,
george.

Thanks for the info George. I might end up completing the dual battery system at the same time.

Do you have a dual battery setup on your rig(s)?

 

[george_tlc]

Thanks for the info George. I might end up completing the dual battery system at the same time.

Do you have a dual battery setup on your rig(s)?

Yes, both rigs have dual battery systems. You can see my setups by clicking on my sig and 'wandering' around my website.

cheers,
george.

 

[alia176]

My solution is perhaps too simple and a tad redneck. Since I use my winch rarely, the POS lead is tucked in next to radiator overflow bottle. The aux battery uses terminal lugs with wing nuts, I simply land the POS cable on the POS term of the battery when the winch is needed. So, I'm guessing 99% of the time, the POS cable just sits curled up in its nest!!

 

[Randy88FJ62]

My solution is perhaps too simple and a tad redneck. Since I use my winch rarely, the POS lead is tucked in next to radiator overflow bottle. The aux battery uses terminal lugs with wing nuts, I simply land the POS cable on the POS term of the battery when the winch is needed. So, I'm guessing 99% of the time, the POS cable just sits curled up in its nest!!

Waay too simple!

That may be the way to go until I get my switch installed.

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

DID the search button and found a few threads on fusing a winch, not really anything was talked about other than a manual switch..


Here in lies the problem, I have seen a winch fail and ground itself, nearly melted the post off the battery by the time he got it off...

As rare as this is it did happen.

I have searched the net and found some heavey duty fuse but have yet to see one be used?

Edit http://www.bluesea.com/products/5137

Rob

 

[onlyonedr]

The issue with trying to fuse the winch is that a motor draws a lot more than full load amperage on a start. I am not well versed in DC motors (background is AC power) but an AC motor can instantaneously draw six times or more the full load amperage on the start at 0RPM before it starts spinning. DC motors are a directly a function of Ohm's law you would need to know the resistance of the motor and the actual voltage drop across it at the instant of a start. This is called a locked rotor amperage. You size fuses for the motor starting curve to make sure they do not blow on a start. That fuse you linked may work, but you would need to know what the motor starting profile looks like. 12VDC 8274 motors seem to be drawing ~400A per Warn's spec sheet; the instantaneous starting current is quite a bit hither, and whether the fuse would work will depend on how long it takes the current to "roll off". If you notice, that fuse has a delay curve that is time and current dependent. The motor starting curve would have to fit "under" the stated performance curve for the fuse.

 

[DudeAbides]

I've heard of people using 300 or 400 amp circuit breakers (car stereo stuff) without issue. The vast majority of the time your probably not going to be maxing out your winch so likely won't be hitting the max amp draw. Dunno, just a thought. Would be worth a try with how cheap they are.

 

[Splangy]

I've had a solenoid stick on me before. It's not fun so I use a heavy duty marine switch. Easy peasy.

 

[DirtaddictLC80]

Any thoughts on this Switch?

Specs are:
300 amp resistive load
150 amp inductive load
450 amp overload

They seem to be built very heavy duty and perfect for an install on my Cruiser. But, my (limited) understanding is that an electrical motor is an inductive load. Wondering how the 300 amp blue sea marine switch compares.

http://www.ucominc.com/batt_disc/4813.html

 

[Splangy]

http://www.bluesea.com/products/category/Manual_Battery_Switches

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Get yourself a Heavy Duty solenoid

It's relatively inexpensive and there's no need to pop the hood, just flick a remote switch from inside


I use one as a battery isolator and another as a main power shut-off for both my front and rear winches as well as an Anderson connector for jumper cables

 

[Rock_Hugger]

I don't know, my 8274 has been wired directly to the battery for over 20 years, never had a problem. Maybe I'm just lucky.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

I don't know, my 8274 has been wired directly to the battery for over 20 years, never had a problem. Maybe I'm just lucky.

Yes, very lucky indeed....

Lucky you didn't get into a front end wreck causing the power cable to short out on the chassis causing a fire or have an iced over solenoid freeze on you or have some punk kid activate the winch from your hand held remote plug using a paper clip and either crush or burn down your rig

There are a number of reasons why I wouldn't want my winch connected directly to my battery constantly

 

[rc51kid]

So how many amp rating would i need for a M12000 Warn?

 

[Rock_Hugger]

Yes, very lucky indeed....

Lucky you didn't get into a front end wreck causing the power cable to short out on the chassis causing a fire or have an iced over solenoid freeze on you or have some punk kid activate the winch from your hand held remote plug using a paper clip and either crush or burn down your rig

There are a number of reasons why I wouldn't want my winch connected directly to my battery constantly

Im sorry, you must have a miserable life, you are paranoid. We can play the "what if" game all day long. Everything we do in life is full of "what ifs". Why would you drive a 4x4 vehicle, they are not safe and can roll over. Why would you go out into tho woods to camp and hunt or whatever we do, there is risk with eveything. meh

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Im sorry, you must have a miserable life, . We can play the what if game all day long. Everything we do in life is full of "what ifs"

So I have a miserable life because I happen to take my winch safety seriously?

I'm not playing games here...

The OP asked about fusing his winch and with very good reason.

Just because YOU haven't an issue with a runaway winch, doesn't mean it can't or won't happen.

We've had several Warn solenoids freeze up on our fleet tow trucks and was lucky enough to have a main safety shut off to prevent damage.

After one of our older push trucks nearly went up in flames when the winch power wire got pinched, we installed Anderson connectors on every vehicle with a winch and/or bumper mounted jumper lead connector that didn't already have solenoid.

Running a live cable to a winch mounted in a high impact zone is just an unnecessary risk IMHO, but you can keep doing whatever you feel works for you