M12000 Winch - What Fuse to use?

Cruiserdrew

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I have the winch in my 80 set up on an Anderson connector, and when not in use, it isn't plugged in. That same connector is also set up as the connection point for jumper cables, thus avoiding battery clamps.

Since I drive my FJ60 so infrequently, that winch is only attached to the battery + when I go on a trip.
 

John McVicker

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I have the winch in my 80 set up on an Anderson connector, and when not in use, it isn't plugged in. That same connector is also set up as the connection point for jumper cables, thus avoiding battery clamps.

Since I drive my FJ60 so infrequently, that winch is only attached to the battery + when I go on a trip.
Andrew, I like this idea and would like to do this with both of my 8274's. Can you please give more info on which Anderson connectors you used...if you have a picture that would be great too.

I have Anderson connectors on my straight to the battery connections for my ham radio, usb ports & ARB fridge, but in looking for them for my 8274's I can only find them going up to 350 amps...which seems too small ??

Appreciate your thoughts on what you used etc.

EDIT: the cables to one 8274 is 2g and the other is 0g.

Thanks, John
 

Cruiserdrew

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Pics will have to wait. But, the connectors are easy.

I used Anderson SB175s in this application. Anderson sells electrodes for 2ga and 0 ga cable. Mount one to the battery with appropriate cables, and the other to the winch cables.

The SB175s were chosen because that's what Warn sells for their winch disconnect, and I already had a bunch of them.

THey are not too small. The 175 refers to a rating where they plug them in with full power on. They can handle much more power when already plugged in. Remember Warn (and all winch companies) supply 2 gauge wire which theoretically should be too small, but it works fine. THe SB175s can flow plenty of current to run your 8274, unless you run it 24 hours per day.

If you come through Sacramento, I have a good crimper and can help you make the cables an connections. It works really well though, and highly recommended. I leave the battery end in the battery compartment under the hood, and only hook up the winch when I need to (which isn't that often, to be honest).
 

John McVicker

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Excellent Andrew, thanks for the explanation. Prob won't be Sacramento way for some time, but appreciate the offer. Am going to pass your info on to my friend who has really been helping with my electrical solutions. Will order up the parts and try to get this done asap.

Thanks again, John
 
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73fj40lc

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I have owned and used winches for over 20 years. I have always done the straight to the battery method. I knew that Warn winches had 2 in and 2 out solenoids, so I didn't think it was necessary to have a switch. I never really thought about getting in a wreck and having a short circuit situation. Today I ordered 2 Blue Sea 3000 HD switches. One will go into my Z71 and the other into my 40. I have always subscribed to the theory, better to have and not need than to need and not have. I guess you can teach an old dog new tricks.
 

John McVicker

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Ordered up the Anderson parts today. Went with the SB180's instead of the 175's. Will post up after the install.

John
Quoting myself here. As I said in my above post, I went with the SB 180's & completed the install on both of my 8274's today. Pretty simple install and I feel a bit safer now.

2g cable, glued heat shrink, hydraulic crimpers and the Anderson connectors, takes about 30 min. I also used silicone tape (Rescue Tape) on the end of the Andersons.
 
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Wanted to follow up since it's been awhile since I started this post. I am running dual batteries and the winch connects to these batteries through a Perko battery switch rated to 360A intermittent. I know line pulls can max out at 440A at 12k load on the M12000 but I always add a snatch block if it's a hard pull.

I have had no issues and having the battery switch is always in the off position unless the winch needs to be used.
 

woytovich

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So you have a dual system for charging and the Perko connects one or both or neither battery to the winch?
 
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I am running a blue sea systems ACR (auto charging relay) for the dual batteries and charging fused with Blue Sea Circuit breakers.

Then as a side separate system I have winch cables going to the Perko Manual switch then the winch wires go from the switch to the separate batteries. I can winch on bat 1, bat 2, or both. When winch is not being used the battery switch is in the off position so no power is going to the winch if I get in an accident or if people wanted to play games.
 

woytovich

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So I guess no problems with the ACR when both batteries are connected and winching is taking place?
The alternator can only assist the batteries with as much current as the ACR will pass I guess?
 
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I have no problems with the ACR setup and the winch.

The winch is wired directly to the batteries via the manual Perko Switch. This bypasses the ACR system. The ACR connects the alternator to the two batteries and auto charges as needed or manual switch in cab for combine or separate.

So the circuit breakers (ie fuses) I am using for the ACR to batteries are 135A and the manual Perko Switch has no fuses from winch to batteries. The Perko Switch is essentially a fuse if the 360A intermittent rating is surpassed as the contacts would fry (I assume they would fry).
 

woytovich

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The Perko might fry closed?

Thinking out loud: The fuse/breaker between the batteries and ACR will prevent >135a (essentially) from going to the batteries so that is the limit as to how much the alternator can contribute during winching. Not an issue if your alternator puts out <135a max. (I run a 144a alternator which would probably be fine with those specs as well)
 
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My stock FJ62 alternator is 70-75 Amps? I forget exactly. I wonder if I can research the Perko switch and see how it fails... hmm.

Looks like Perko's heavy duty switch can handle higher amerpage:
PERKO Inc. - Catalog - Battery Switches - Heavy Duty Battery Selector Switch with Alternator Field Disconnect [8603]


Based on warn's website I'd have to pull 10,000 pounds for a steady amount of time to burn out this battery switch. I always use a snatch block for hard pulls reducing the amperage draws.
 
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Spike Strip

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If I put just a cut off switch, like this, to de-energize the winch, does it go in the Pos or Neg cable.... Or does it matter ?

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Spike Strip

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I used Anderson SB175s in this application. Anderson sells electrodes for 2ga and 0 ga cable. Mount one to the battery with appropriate cables, and the other to the winch cables.

The SB175s were chosen because that's what Warn sells for their winch disconnect, and I already had a bunch of them.

THey are not too small. The 175 refers to a rating where they plug them in with full power on. They can handle much more power when already plugged in. Remember Warn (and all winch companies) supply 2 gauge wire which theoretically should be too small, but it works fine. THe SB175s can flow plenty of current to run your 8274, unless you run it 24 hours per day.
Thanks, Drew - I decided to go with the Anderson connectors instead of a switch. Seemed easier and more secure, since there's little room now in the engine bay for more wiring and switches anyway. :crybaby::D

Cheers!

(My new-to-me 4Plus bump and Warn M12K VR (covered).

And just to pass on a great deal before they are all gone: EBAY LINK WINCH COVER

Super cheap and GREAT quality for planetary winches. I bought two, since the neoprene style are crap and expensive.



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