Low SOA 62 q's (1 Viewer)

[Cruisified]

Let me know if this has been covered, I searched. I want to do a SOA but keep it at 3-4" of lift over stock. I've got decent stock springs on my 90' and 34x10.5's I'd like to keep and not regear. I don't want it too tall and I don't have too much cash or time for fabwork (I have a mig, cutting tools, and skills just not time), figure if I keep it at 3-4" I might avoid extending DL's? and a cut and turn? Figure I might have to recess my shackle pivot points into my framerails. Hysteer? Anyone do a SOA resembling this? I want the flex and added axle clearance just not too tall.

am I better off just throwing on a AAL and 1" BL? After reading this I think I talked myself out of it.

 

[chicago]

am I better off just throwing on a AAL and 1" BL? After reading this I think I talked myself out of it.[/quote]

Yeup!
Just the housing height alone is 2.5 or 3 in dia.
Then the perches, the pack with the arch and the shackles....


Chicago

 

[weak-link]

mine ended up pretty low

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/208739-weak-links-60-bulid.html

and it could go lower with imagination. I am kinda limited by my tires

 

[Exiled]

I don't think a SOA lift of under 4" is realistic, I ran pretty flat springs and short shackles on mine and still had about 5" of lift vs. stock. Loved it, though, if I ever built another 60, I'd run the same exact combo.

 

[PortFJ62]

This might be a great set up for ya. 35's,flat springs. Was a beautiful truck I saw at moab 07. Not to big, not to small.

[/IMG]

 

[agent orange]

Ive put a good bit of thought into the topic of a very low SOA. My thoughts on the subject are that you could run a new perch at the frame end that would put the spring eye right below the frame instead of 3-4 inches lower, and weld a tube into the frame in the front to run the shackle lower as well. Hell, you might have to run a spring with a little arch to keep the steering linkage out of the front of the engine. What i have done with my truck is cut it and run a 3in suspension lift, and it works really well. I would like more flex, but it flexes really well for what it is, and it sticks like glue in the off camber stuff. My goal is to run 37s with no more lift, and ive got the room to do it. I still need to finish the back, but that wont be nearly as involved as the front.

 

[esh]

Ive put a good bit of thought into the topic of a very low SOA. My thoughts on the subject are that you could run a new perch at the frame end that would put the spring eye right below the frame instead of 3-4 inches lower, and weld a tube into the frame in the front to run the shackle lower as well.

This is how my '79 FJ40 was done (though it is a shackle reversal), and it is great on flat springs/35s. Wheels awesome, and same on the road. It could actually use a little more arch. If I every spring the FJ62, I will likely follow this setup. Hysteer works fine with it (the 40 has All-Pro's).

 

[weak-link]

whats the stock frame(below the b-piller) to ground measure out to?

 

[freds40]

A 2-3" SOA is definately possible. The suspension work is not the problem. The problem lies in an ultra low SOA with big tires. The front sheetmetal can be carved up pretty easily. The rear sheetmetal however would involve reworking the door jamb as well as the door itself to get any kind of up travel out of it. (and I'm talking onlike 3-4" of uptravel @ the tire)

 

[Waggoner5]

It would be very difficult to get 2-3 inches without at least reverse arched springs and possibly recessed shackle mounts. The axle tube is 4" by itself. Even if the springs were mounted right on the tube, you still have the thickness of the spring pack of around 2.5 inches, plus the axle tube. This nets 6.5 inches. If you reversed the arch of the springs you could get it it close, but I wouldn't see much benefit in the SOA at that point.

 

[Kavik]

A 2-3" SOA is definately possible. The suspension work is not the problem. The problem lies in an ultra low SOA with big tires. The front sheetmetal can be carved up pretty easily. The rear sheetmetal however would involve reworking the door jamb as well as the door itself to get any kind of up travel out of it. (and I'm talking onlike 3-4" of uptravel @ the tire)

True.

 

[sixty]

With real flat springs its possible, but generally if they are flat, they are weak and wont last long before turing into S's, you really need reinforced springs.

Cut and turn is free if your axle parts and seals are in good shape and you habe cutting and welding tools. it's well worth the effort for the cut and turn and if you source some mini tuck CV drive shafts for cheap (used to buy them all day for $40 ea.) you can get vibration free shafts for cost of lengthening or shortening.

I added alot of leaves to my last packs after going thru 3 sets in around 30k miles with alot of wheeling. so far I have about 2k of very hard miles on them and they are working great. My rig sits probably 8" higher than stock with the 1 ton axles and thick sprngs.

 

[TwoThirtyDirty]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/21931-interesting-soa-idea.html

I don't know if it's plausible or not but worth making a trip to a spring shop to see if the main leaf only could be re-arched in the opposite direction and then the pack reassembled.