Local Diesel Rebuild Options?

[R.E.M.]

I like my 3B and want to keep it for as long as possible. I really have no idea on the history of this engine except when the last oil change (and oil add) was.

From my symptoms and research I believe the engine may need new rings, sleeves and other goodies deep inside. Basically the turbo is passing a LOT of oil through into the intake where it collects in the intercooler and leaks out of the bottom while driving. I believe this is what's called blowby from too high crankcase pressure.

ANYWAY, does anyone have any suggestions (including themselves) on rebuilding a 3B? Short of shipping it out to one of the big Cruiser shops (hmm road trip?) I'm at a loss. Toytech in Liberty doesn't want anything to do with diesels.

 

[half k cruiser]

Call your local NAPA machine shop. They will have all of the equipment but you will have to get the motor to them minus the vehicle.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

its a sleeve motor right? should be a no brainer.. get a kit and re sleeve it. machine shop for the crank if necessary..

 

[cjmoon]

or is it just the turbo leaking? was that a factory turbo engine? ring blow by would put oil into the turbine housing causing blue smoke and oil in the exhaust,the down tube would be wet with oil. i have a diesel compression tester you can borrow give you a better idea of engine health.

 

[R.E.M.]

or is it just the turbo leaking? was that a factory turbo engine? ring blow by would put oil into the turbine housing causing blue smoke and oil in the exhaust,the down tube would be wet with oil. i have a diesel compression tester you can borrow give you a better idea of engine health.

Is the turbo just leaking? Thats what I'm not sure about! There is no blue smoke at all. Only black after starting from a stop and gray under hard acceleration.

3B's were factory NA. It's the 13BT's that got the turbo. The whole turbo/diesel swap was a homemade job by some previous owner.

I don't notice any oil in the flex tube or any of the exhaust. The oil is DEFINITELY coming from the compressor side into the intake. I did relocate the turbo's oil return line using larger hose and fittings, dumping it to the oil pan instead of the original oil return for the alternator. I thought that maybe the oil wasn't returning fast enough and might have been restricted. No noticeable change after that, but maybe the damage was already done.

I know that if my diesel has good compression I shouldn't worry about the internals, but that's just what I've read. What exactly would a compression test tell me? I'll take you up on that compression tester offer. You going to TAC on the Farm next weekend?

 

[R.E.M.]

its a sleeve motor right? should be a no brainer.. get a kit and re sleeve it. machine shop for the crank if necessary..

Yeah, these are sleeved. I could do it myself, but it would take me 2 months probably and my wife would... well it wouldn't be good. Plus it's my DD.

 

[SAS]

compression test will give insight to the condition of your cylinders, pistons, rings, and valves. A low compression reading (below factory specs or comparatively low versus other cylinders) on any cylinder indicates a problem with one or more of these.

Justin at Redline has a video on how to perform a compression test:

 

[cjmoon]

I don't notice any oil in the flex tube or any of the exhaust. The oil is DEFINITELY coming from the compressor side into the intake. I did relocate the turbo's oil return line using larger hose and fittings, dumping it to the oil pan instead of the original oil return for the alternator. I thought that maybe the oil wasn't returning fast enough and might have been restricted. No noticeable change after that, but maybe the damage was already done.

you could have already blown the oil seals out. oil leak sounds more like turbo issue.

the black smoke and gray sounds like fuel. what turbo? how much boost. when a turbo is added to and originally NA engine typically the injection pump lacks intake pressure sensing ability that will only compensate fuel for boost. instead you add an even amount of fuel across the RPM range so it's a little rich on the low end a clean up in the mid to high. the turbo size and condition could be contributing if it's not spinning fast enough to supply enough air

i have not planned on going to the Farm. figure time is better spent on getting my cruising running before the year mark. just hitting the 6 month now.

 

[R.E.M.]

you could have already blown the oil seals out. oil leak sounds more like turbo issue.

the black smoke and gray sounds like fuel. what turbo? how much boost. when a turbo is added to and originally NA engine typically the injection pump lacks intake pressure sensing ability that will only compensate fuel for boost. instead you add an even amount of fuel across the RPM range so it's a little rich on the low end a clean up in the mid to high. the turbo size and condition could be contributing if it's not spinning fast enough to supply enough air

i have not planned on going to the Farm. figure time is better spent on getting my cruising running before the year mark. just hitting the 6 month now.

Well those are good points. I'm hopeful that it's just a turbo seal problem.

The smoke I'm ok with from what I've read.

It's a little turbo: Borg Warner K16 or something. It's running 12-13psi. Everything seems to work so well that I haven't changed anything since I've had it (as far as turbo set up). But this oil pouring out the way it is really has me worried.



...via IH8MUD app

 

[half k cruiser]

You should have a local turbo shop somewhere in the KC area, they could rebuild it for you or sell you a reman.

 

[cjmoon]

i'd start with a turbo rebuilt turbo kit. I believe that's a popular one. even a cheap e-bay kit. it might last longer than you think at 12-13 psi.

 

[R.E.M.]

Well I'd be happy if the issue is isolated to the turbo. I'll read up on turbo rebuilds and consider shipping it out to a good shop.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[toyotology]

The compression test video is for a gas motor.. a little different on a diesel.

@cjmoon the 3B injection pump isn't like a bosch VE or P pump like your 4BT... the 3B engine actually has an intake ventury and vacuum on the both sides of the ventury act on a fueling diaphragm on the injection pump... so the throttle cable goes to "throttle body" and not the injection pump. So typically when someone boosts a 3B, you do get extra fueling with the increase in boost pressure. It's a weird setup but works well until the leather fuel diaphragm fails.

As far as turbo rebuild kits go.. I have an '85 toyota truck with a 2L-T diesel. I was having a smoke issue and I installed an ebay rebuild kit. well 5k miles later I'm smoking again if i let it idle-up for prolong periods. I have a couple friends who have used a higher quality kits from gpopshop.com for their vw idi's and tdi's with good success.

I'd be interested in seeing what kind of numbers come from a compression test. It will at least give you a good idea on engine health.. as some sort of a baseline. According to the FSM, the rebuild mark is 284psi with a 28psi max between cylinders.

If the turbo rebuild kit is the direction you go, gpop shop has good instructions on how to take the turbo apart, so when you re-assemble it, the center section is still balanced.

I'm pretty well versed around the 3B and the L series diesels.. I've rebuilt my 2L-T, my dad has the 3B in his 40, and I've rebuilt a few vw 1.6's and have done lots of injection pump tuning. Don't hesitate to get in contact with me for any insight or help in diagnosis.