Leaking front differential

[Maglight]

So in Feb I broke the front differential. I noticed it while I was washing my truck after some wheeling. It got it fixed, actual replaced the whole thing. Well I noticed it is leaking from the same spot again. I took it to the shop I had the front diff work done the last time because I am hoping the work will be covered under their warranty. The same mechanic looked at it and said that the coil over on that side may be putting too much pressure on the CV axle and causing the seal to break. He said he thought this because when he took the driver side suspension apart it moved like it had some type of torqueing pressure on it. They are hesitant to put a new CV axle in and see the same results, I don’t want to have to get another front diff, they are expensive. He says maybe if I get it measured and see if the front is the same height on both sides I will be ok, but people get OME with the trim packer and they don’t have problems, why would I get a problem when I adjusted my Walker Evans to be level with the back and compensate for the driver’s lean. Has anyone had this issue? Does anyone have an idea as to how to fix it?

 

[Mtbcoach]

What's the question?

Why the front diff broke in the first place, just curious.

Why the mechanic can't diagnose the problem?

Why you have the coil-overs maxed out?

Take some pics, that will help a great deal...

 

[Maglight]

What's the question?

Why the front diff broke in the first place, just curious.

Why the mechanic can't diagnose the problem?

Why you have the coil-overs maxed out?

Take some pics, that will help a great deal...

1) Is the mechanic's statement that the coilover is pushing down unevenly on the driver side and causing the seal breakage and leak make sense?

2) I don't know why the front diff is broken, I don't know if it is at this point, but the last time the Mechanic said it looked like I was in an accident. The only "hard" hit I had on that wheel while wheeling was a slide down a hill in the mud burying the drivers front wheel in a pile of mud that stopped my sliding.

3) The mechanic thinks the problem might be the coilover pushing on the axle unevenly on the driver side.

4) I don't have the coilovers maxed out, I don't think. My driver side is 37 1/2' high from ground to fender, the passenger side is 37 7/8" so the driver side is still lower, but it is the one leaking.

 

[1911]

1) Is the mechanic's statement that the coilover is pushing down unevenly on the driver side and causing the seal breakage and leak make sense?

No; it smells like BS to me. The CV's and half-shafts flex every time you drive it and do not affect the diff seals. The seal is bad for sure - more than likely damaged when it was put in (or the old marginal one was not replaced to cut corners).

2) I don't know why the front diff is broken, I don't know if it is at this point, but the last time the Mechanic said it looked like I was in an accident. The only "hard" hit I had on that wheel while wheeling was a slide down a hill in the mud burying the drivers front wheel in a pile of mud that stopped my sliding.

Get a real (aftermarket) front skid plate.

3) The mechanic thinks the problem might be the coilover pushing on the axle unevenly on the driver side.

4) I don't have the coilovers maxed out, I don't think. My driver side is 37 1/2' high from ground to fender, the passenger side is 37 7/8" so the driver side is still lower, but it is the one leaking.

Hard to judge from a distance, but it sure sounds like your mechanic is feeding you a line of BS to keep from fixing his mistake at his cost from the last time he worked on it.

 

[BMThiker]

Mag: The only way I can see a "new" seal breaking is if the CV gets bound up really bad or the seal just gets dirt in it bad enough to deteriorate the rubber. But I think 1911 may have called it-- they probably just "repaired" the old seal or messed up the new one while installing it.

1911: It looks like he has a BudBuilt skid in place (neon green).

Mag: you can buy the seals for a few bucks from the dealer and install them yourself. Just look up the instructions (on how to change a CV axle) on the blue forum - tech section.

BTDT. The hardest part is yanking the CV axle out and it just takes more muscle than you are accustomed to imparting on your beloved FJC (oh wait, I've seen you wheel before, nevermind, you'll be fine)

 

[Mtbcoach]

Nice pics Rick...

 

[Maglight]

Mag: The only way I can see a "new" seal breaking is if the CV gets bound up really bad or the seal just gets dirt in it bad enough to deteriorate the rubber.

The mechanic did say that maybe the skids are holding dirt up in that area and causing the dirt to ruin the seal. I do have Budbuilt skids, bu t I don't see them being so close to the diff to hold dirt up there, at least not the last time off road. Maybe the first time I broke it in durhamtown yeah I was in too much mud spinning my wheels too much maybe there, but not last time.

I guess I could try replacing the seal my self.

 

[BMThiker]

I bet dollars to donuts they damaged the seal when they installed it. You should replace it and get used to doing things like this yourself - save some $$ and learn more about your truck.

I can't imagine that the skids have anything to do with your axle/diff seal.

However, another problem area for front diffs is the clamshell bolts that hold the entire assembly together. They tend to work themselves free with all the vibrations they go through as A-trac is working and then you develop a leak where the two halves come together. The lower bolts are easy to get to with the skid off, but the ones around the top are a PITA. I used an offset box wrench (12mm) to reach the ones around the top half since getting a socket on them is impossible. And even then, it is hard to reach the one at "12 o'clock" so you'll have to get creative with a straight (screwdriver) socket drive or actually drop the front diff.

 

[Maglight]

I tried to lower the coilovers this weekend in an effort to take some of the pressure off the CV axle. I broke the tool I was using as a spanner wrench, a 1/4" punch. The collar wouldn't turn to save my life. I only worked the driver side and I noticed it seemed to have lots of pressure in a twisting sort of motion towards the front of the truck.
"Why you have the coil-overs maxed out?" I didn't know they were, but I will bet they are.
I think I will switch out the seal myself and I am going to get rid of the Walker Evans Coilovers, and go with some OME med, this way I can't adjust them and it is a perfect opportunity to get new suspension components as my WE's were used when I got them and are really used now that I have had them.

 

[Mtbcoach]

Try to jack the wheel up to let the suspension droop, then try to adjust it again. Liberal amounts of break free or other lubricant can help also.

Typically, coil over manufactuters will advise to not adjust beyond "X" amount of threads. I had great success with OME 885's on the front...

 

[Maglight]

Bought the 885's this morning. I need the strut mount and probably the bolts for the bottom though. I have looked on line, but they are expensive.

 

[niceguysanti]

I am running the WE 2.5's - when I installed them about a 15 months ago I went thru 3 different diff seals - two on the driver and one on the passenger. They leaked everytime I wheeled the rig in the Jersey sugar sand laden Pine Barrens. I suspected that the WE's allowed my CV's to droop too much which stressed the seal and allow some grit to get into it. I saw that there was a microscopic groove carved into the cv shaft where the grit had lodged itself between the seal and the shaft. I installed some limit straps in the front about 10 months ago and I have had no leaks coming from the seals since.

q??

did you have the 2.0's or the 2.5's??

 

[Maglight]

Mine are about 4 years old and I bought them used, so to be honest I don't know.
Since installing the 1" diff drop I haven't had any leaking.