last minute help in getting rig running

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Joined
Aug 11, 2006
Threads
81
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416
Location
Purcellville, VA
I finally put my rig back together yesterday after getting a rebuilt carb, recurved dissy, headers (with desmog), milled intake manifold, and all new Toyota tune up parts.

I put everything back together yesterday and I'm 99.9% sure I put all vacuum lines back together accurately. I fired it up and it started and ran OK, but when I drove it home, it had no power. It had a slight backfire as well.

Now to the questions: With a desmogged engine, can someone confirm the routing of the vacuum advance lines off the disssy? The desmog diagrams show that the outer one goes to the back of the carb, and the inner goes to the HAI (I can't figure out where that one goes). Finally, it looks like there is a vacuum line coming off the top of the carb cooling fan. Pre-desmog, it came and connected into the fuel cutoff and into the intake vacuum(R side).

Also, I put the engine on TDC, marked the dissy (and block) and pulled the dissy out a few weeks ago. I did not move the engine, and thought that I put it back in exactly as I pulled it out. If I got the dissy in 180 out, would I assume that it would not even run? The only way I could keep the vehicle running smooth is with the dissy cap turned completely CounterClockwise (retarded??).

So, can anyone help me out. This has been a long time coming, so both my wife and I would be very grateful to get this thing running. Thank you.
 
If the fuel cutoff solenoid isn't hooked up, it will run normal under 1800 rpms and then like crap above.

Can you put up some pics of how your hoses are routed?
 
Not to point out the obvious, ( but sometimes obvios is the answer ) it sounds almost like you might have your plug wires one hole off on your dissy? Maybe maybe not
 
here are a few pics of both dvr and psgr sides.

I'm pretty sure I didn't get the wires off. It is a Toyota dissy cap and wires, so they are all numbered. I'm assuming that the cylinders go 1 (front) - 6 (back).
engpic4.webp
engpic3.webp
eng pic2.webp
 
it looks like you do not have vacum to the primary vac advance on the dist. (the inner one) that would explain low power because the dist. is not advancing as the power curve builds while rpms increase.
 
according to Jim C in another thread(https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/188643-my-desmog-thread-3.html)

"6. Typically the primary advance is not hooked to anything. The diagram may show it being connected to one of the breather fittings on the air cleaner just to make it look like it is doing something. The secondary (hac) advance is connected to one of the ported vac fittings on the carb."

I took it out again this morning. It seems to run smooth, but has 0 power.....can't get out of its own way. I pulled the vac off the dissy, and it isn't pulling any vacuum from the back of the carb. Not sure if this is normal. I pulled off another vac line going to fuel cutoff and it is pulling good vacuum. I need to get a vac guage.

So, I'm going to pull the air cleaner off and relook at my connections behind the carb. I'm stuck.
 
according to Jim C in another thread(https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/188643-my-desmog-thread-3.html)

"6. Typically the primary advance is not hooked to anything. The diagram may show it being connected to one of the breather fittings on the air cleaner just to make it look like it is doing something. The secondary (hac) advance is connected to one of the ported vac fittings on the carb."

I took it out again this morning. It seems to run smooth, but has 0 power.....can't get out of its own way. I pulled the vac off the dissy, and it isn't pulling any vacuum from the back of the carb. Not sure if this is normal. I pulled off another vac line going to fuel cutoff and it is pulling good vacuum. I need to get a vac guage.

So, I'm going to pull the air cleaner off and relook at my connections behind the carb. I'm stuck.

you won't have vac at the dist at idle off the carb. it is virtually zero, vac builds as the engine revs. you should be able to take that vac line and rev the engine and feel the vac on your finger.
 
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here's a pic from a desmog thread showing primary advace connected and secondary to HAc if you have kept it. if this contradicts jim's stuff he knows best....
 
Thanks. I connected my secondary the the carb as per the wire diagram in your second post. I have both of those diagrams. I'll rev to see if I'm getting vacuum from the carb. I checked for leaks on the intake using a little starting fluid and I can't detect any idle up.

I'm going through the mysteries of timing right now. I actually came back into check whether the BB is 7BTDC or TDC marking.....
 
1 more thing: I just put the engine at TDC (the line) and pulled off the dissy. It is pointed completely opposite of where I think it should be. Shouldn't the rotor point directly at the # 1 cylinder? It's pointed opposite #1. Did I put the dissy back in 180 degrees out?
 
If you line the pointer at the line, the rotor should point in the direction of either the #4 cylinder, or 180 degrees the other way, depending on where you are in the cycle (intake or exhaust).
 
1 more thing: I just put the engine at TDC (the line) and pulled off the dissy. It is pointed completely opposite of where I think it should be. Shouldn't the rotor point directly at the # 1 cylinder? It's pointed opposite #1. Did I put the dissy back in 180 degrees out?

If the dizzy was 180 out your engine wouldn't run. I don't think it is a very likely culprit. What other "symptoms" if any does your engine have. Does it stumble on accel, does it run hot, any "pinging" noises, whens the last time the valves where adjusted?
 
With a desmogged engine, can someone confirm the routing of the vacuum advance lines off the disssy? The desmog diagrams show that the outer one goes to the back of the carb, and the inner goes to the HAI (I can't figure out where that one goes).

Correct on the outer (secondary advance). The inner (primary advance) is fine left capped. The drawing your looking at shows the hose going to the airfliter housing. Not really necessary, capping it will be fine.

If I got the dissy in 180 out, would I assume that it would not even run?

Yes

The only way I could keep the vehicle running smooth is with the dissy cap turned completely CounterClockwise (retarded??).

Is this still the case? If so you may just be a few teeth off on the dizzy.
 
Cliff....

I like you second picture of the desmog....
but noticed the Choke Opener isn't connected toa vac source. While that's not a problem, per se, it will allow the choke plate to close if you pull choke control with engine warmed up. I use choke control to hold fast-idle if I'm (battery) jumping someone or want to fast charge my bat while sitting still....
 
jasheehan

glad to see the primary advance vacum was the simple solution.....
 
In the first diagram with the items crossed off, with the check valves does that mean get rid of the valves and replace with a line or get ride of the whole thing . also are you supposed to get rid of the Hard line that connects some lines from the drivers side to passanger?
 
I'm not out of the woods yet. It still isn't running right. I think that my dissy is still installed wrong. It was backfiring and has NO POWER.... back to the drawing board.
 
In the first diagram with the items crossed off, with the check valves does that mean get rid of the valves and replace with a line or get ride of the whole thing . also are you supposed to get rid of the Hard line that connects some lines from the drivers side to passanger?

the crossouts represent items removed during the desmog process. valves and the lines going to them
 
I'm not out of the woods yet. It still isn't running right. I think that my dissy is still installed wrong. It was backfiring and has NO POWER.... back to the drawing board.

Have you tried reinstalling your dizzy yet? If you still have to have the dizzy turned all the way CC, something is not right.

Install the dizzy w/ #1 cylinder TDC on the compression stroke. Make sure the rotor points to #4 spark plug.
 

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