KZJ95 4Runner radiator retrofit

[OM617YOTA]

Alrighty, got my radiator retrofitted. Most of this is nothing new, but I didn't see it posted all in one place anywhere else on the forum, so here goes.

Radiator is Denso PN 42406, meant for a 2000 4Runner 2.7l. Think the 3.4l used the same radiator. Bolts in exactly the same, but the top and bottom hoses are on opposite sides, so hoses have to be modified accordingly.

Upper radiator hose is a mix of the factory upper radiator hose 16571-67070, Dayco C71280, a straight piece of 1.5" radiator hose. I cut them apart, used bends where needed, used couplers to re-clock orientation, and then connected them all up with Amazon aluminum radiator hose couplers and a pile of hose clamps.

Lower radiator hose is the factory hose PN 16572-67070, split in the center and extended with a straight piece of 1.5" radiator hose, more couplers, and hose clamps.

I added a coolant temperature sensor probe for an Auber Instruments display to one of the couplers on the lower hose, but I goofed. I wanted it on the outlet from the engine and didn't realize that the thermostat controlled coolant going in, not coming out. I'll have to swap that at some point.

While I had the system open, I replaced the rubber hoses leading to the turbo(didn't get a pic), and the heater hoses. These U-bends are Dayco B70553, Carquest 20625, or Napa 7388. I had to trim one slightly. Mixer valve has been added to the list of things to replace.

Replaced the heater hoses on the other side with standard 3/4" heater hose. Bypassed the lines leading to the rear heater. Completely unneeded for me, just an additional failure point. I added enough of those already.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Engine warmed up and thermostat opening, thermal pics showing coolant starting to move through the top hose and heater hose. Looks like I need to recalibrate the alignment on my Flir.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Alrighty, the ONE piece in the cooling system that I didn't replace was the heater control valve. Would you all care to guess what failed and started leaking?

Factory heater control valve PN for the KZJ95 is 87240-35030.

I didn't want to order from the usual folks overseas and wait for the part to arrive, so decided to see if the heater control valve from the same 2000 4Runner as the radiator would work. Napa PN BK6601374.

Sure enough, it does. You have to pull the actuator lever and swap over the lever from your factory heater control valve, but otherwise it's the same and fits perfectly.

Differences between the levers as-installed.

Pulled screws, yup looks the same other than the lever.

Swapped lever, fits perfectly.

New valve mounted in housing with lever and actuator cable holder.

Put everything back together, haven't test driven yet but idled until up to full operating temperature. First time not smelling coolant since I've owned the vehicle.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Alrighty, bit of an update.

4Runner radiator is functioning perfectly.

My adapter hoses, not so much. They're seeping coolant out of the cords on the cut ends of the hoses, and I smell coolant every time I drive it. Have only had to add a few ounces of coolant once since installed, but far from ideal and I have grave concerns about adapter hose integrity. Coolant seeping out of cords = hoses are compromised despite being brand new; I fear a catastrophic failure as we move into summer.

Pondering either this radiator and factory hoses:

64637A - Radiator, engine cooling

64637A - Radiator, engine cooling manufactured by NISSENS applicable for the TOYOTA. This radiator is fully compatible with original part numbers 1640067141, 16400-67121, and 16400-67140. Order NISSENS radiator online and find many other parts and accessories that fit your car, bike or truck.

spareto.com

Or redoing my conversion hoses.

Anyone have any tips or tricks?

 

[OM617YOTA]

Radiator just arrived from Spareto. Looks decent, not pleased about how poorly the fins were protected. They're fine, but not pristine as I would have hoped they'd be.

OEM hoses inbound.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Alrighty, update time. One of the radiator hoses I cut apart to build conversion hoses for a 4Runner radiator was compromised, it was about to burst despite being new. Probably could have replaced just that chunk and been fine. Happier being back to a more stock configuration.

New Nissens radiator and OEM hoses installed. System bled much easier than last time with the conversion radiator, happy about that. Drives + maintains temperature exactly as it should. Direct replacement + lower cost than a locally sourced 4Runner radiator and conversion hoses; as long as this option is available don't bother retrofitting a 4Runner radiator, it's just not worth the trouble.

Not overly pleased with the condition of the Nissens radiator when it arrived. It'll be fine and I'm using it without qualms, but if I got something similar from Napa or a local store, I'm not sure I'd accept it.

If anyone needs a 2000 4Runner radiator with only a few months use on it, I'll sell you one for half the price of new............

 

[little_joe]

Really do appreciate you keeping this updated - and congrats on getting this sorted and setting your mind at ease! The details and part numbers you provided are a huge help to me, and likely to many others.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Glad to help! Just posting what I myself had hoped to find before starting this journey.

 

[KZJ95W]

Alrighty, update time. One of the radiator hoses I cut apart to build conversion hoses for a 4Runner radiator was compromised, it was about to burst despite being new. Probably could have replaced just that chunk and been fine. Happier being back to a more stock configuration.

New Nissens radiator and OEM hoses installed. System bled much easier than last time with the conversion radiator, happy about that. Drives + maintains temperature exactly as it should. Direct replacement + lower cost than a locally sourced 4Runner radiator and conversion hoses; as long as this option is available don't bother retrofitting a 4Runner radiator, it's just not worth the trouble.

Not overly pleased with the condition of the Nissens radiator when it arrived. It'll be fine and I'm using it without qualms, but if I got something similar from Napa or a local store, I'm not sure I'd accept it.

View attachment 3898566

If anyone needs a 2000 4Runner radiator with only a few months use on it, I'll sell you one for half the price of new............

Hey there, I just received this rad in the mail. did you notice that the plastic top and bottom was about 3-4mm less diameter than the original? I still havent taken my original rad out, but I am also wondering if there is a core difference? It is labelled as the same on the spareto website.

 

[KZJ95W]

I am also curious, do you have another cooler in front of your rad? I am guessing it is a trans cooler. I cant find that anywhere in the many diagrams I have viewed of my kzj95w.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Hey there, I just received this rad in the mail. did you notice that the plastic top and bottom was about 3-4mm less diameter than the original? I still havent taken my original rad out, but I am also wondering if there is a core difference? It is labelled as the same on the spareto website.

I didn't notice a difference in sizing. By diameter, do you mean the water inlet and outlet? 4mm could be enough to be a problem.

Mine bolted directly in, OEM hoses fit it perfectly, and it's maintained perfect temperature even climbing mountain passes in 40C weather.

I am also curious, do you have another cooler in front of your rad? I am guessing it is a trans cooler. I cant find that anywhere in the many diagrams I have viewed of my kzj95w.

AC condenser.

 

[Birdseyedavis]

Engine warmed up and thermostat opening, thermal pics showing coolant starting to move through the top hose and heater hose. Looks like I need to recalibrate the alignment on my Flir.

View attachment 3721520View attachment 3721521

Love those infrared images! Way cool

 

[KZJ95W]

I didn't notice a difference in sizing. By diameter, do you mean the water inlet and outlet? 4mm could be enough to be a problem.

Mine bolted directly in, OEM hoses fit it perfectly, and it's maintained perfect temperature even climbing mountain passes in 40C weather.



AC condenser.

No it is not the inlet and outlet holes, but the entire top and bottom plastic pieces, while looking from the top or bottom. they are very obviously not the same depth as the original. But the spareto website labelled the piece i ordered as 64637A, which is also labelled on the radiator I received.

 

[OM617YOTA]

No it is not the inlet and outlet holes, but the entire top and bottom plastic pieces, while looking from the top or bottom. they are very obviously not the same depth as the original. But the spareto website labelled the piece i ordered as 64637A, which is also labelled on the radiator I received.

Hadn't noticed that kind of difference in mine.

If it bolts in and everything hooks up, I'm sure it's fine.

 

[Batameez]

As a lifelong 3rd gen 4Runner owner, I recommend you learn from my experience. These parts store parts are genuinely dog s***e. Those worm clamps will slowly loosen and give you mystery winter leaks. The generic hoses won't fit as well as an OEM, and that heater valve will leak from the screw after two years. I would buy once, cry once, and save a ton of time by ordering proper parts from Partsouq.

 

[OM617YOTA]

As a lifelong 3rd gen 4Runner owner, I recommend you learn from my experience. These parts store parts are genuinely dog s***e. Those worm clamps will slowly loosen and give you mystery winter leaks. The generic hoses won't fit as well as an OEM, and that heater valve will leak from the screw after two years. I would buy once, cry once, and save a ton of time by ordering proper parts from Partsouq.

Somewhat agreed. If an OEM radiator was available I'd have gone that route. Cheap hose clamps are utter garbage, much better ones are available at Home Depot of all places. The heater valve has been fine thus far.

Some aftermarket parts are perfectly fine, but if you're buying with cost being your main criteria.....expect to get cheap garbage.

I really like Rock Auto. Go on Amayama or Partsouq and nail down the OEM PN, then throw that OEM PN into Rock Auto search, then pick good quality from there. Can also buy garbage if that's your jam, but I don't like setting money on fire.

I love this thing. Yeah it's more trouble, but having a vehicle I actually enjoy turns every little dreary commute into a mini vacation, and I can do all of this and still be light years ahead of having a car payment. I just passed 160km/100k miles on mine, need to replace the glow plugs and have the injectors serviced.

 

[Batameez]

Somewhat agreed. If an OEM radiator was available I'd have gone that route. Cheap hose clamps are utter garbage, much better ones are available at Home Depot of all places. The heater valve has been fine thus far.

Some aftermarket parts are perfectly fine, but if you're buying with cost being your main criteria.....expect to get cheap garbage.

I really like Rock Auto. Go on Amayama or Partsouq and nail down the OEM PN, then throw that OEM PN into Rock Auto search, then pick good quality from there. Can also buy garbage if that's your jam, but I don't like setting money on fire.

I love this thing. Yeah it's more trouble, but having a vehicle I actually enjoy turns every little dreary commute into a mini vacation, and I can do all of this and still be light years ahead of having a car payment. I just passed 160km/100k miles on mine, need to replace the glow plugs and have the injectors serviced.

Radiator I understand. The aftermarket heater valve will get you two years, and then I'd replace it out of precaution. Rock Auto sells good stuff, but you're still at the mercy of whatever the aftermarket decides to half ass. I would keep those OEM constant tension clamps. You can get better worm drive clamps from Breeze or Oetiker, but even that Home Depot stuff is better off for home uses.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Radiator I understand. The aftermarket heater valve will get you two years, and then I'd replace it out of precaution. Rock Auto sells good stuff, but you're still at the mercy of whatever the aftermarket decides to half ass. I would keep those OEM constant tension clamps. You can get better worm drive clamps from Breeze or Oetiker, but even that Home Depot stuff is better off for home uses.

Been using worm drive clamps for 25+ years now without issue, quite comfortable with them as long as they're quality. Don't overtighten them like most people do.

The heater valve was Napa's Balkamp brand, also quite comfortable with that. If OEM had been available 20 minutes away I'd have done that, but it wasn't and Napa's was.

I'm also running aftermarket oil filters. Even ran one Wix filter. Heavens me, living on the edge.

 

[Batameez]

Been using worm drive clamps for 25+ years now without issue, quite comfortable with them as long as they're quality. Don't overtighten them like most people do.

The heater valve was Napa's Balkamp brand, also quite comfortable with that. If OEM had been available 20 minutes away I'd have done that, but it wasn't and Napa's was.

I'm also running aftermarket oil filters. Even ran one Wix filter. Heavens me, living on the edge.

I'm always down to outsmart Toyota!

 

[OM617YOTA]

I'm always down to outsmart Toyota!

I used to be on a Mercedes diesel forum, see username.

Interesting mix of folks there. People who used wheel dollies to load their cars on trailers to go to shows, so they didn't add miles to their cars just getting them in and out of the trailer. They worshiped at the altar of Mercedes engineering, and thought using anything but Mercedes original parts was absolute blasphemy. Sometimes the original manufacturer Mercedes used to source parts from was OK.

Then there was the other end. People who bought the absolute cheapest used tires they could find and refused to "waste" money getting the tires balanced, and swore they couldn't tell the difference. They also bought the absolute cheapest of any kind of part they could possibly find, or just plain did without if the vehicle would still move without that doohickey functioning.

Then somewhere in the middle there was most of us, folks who thought using reasonable aftermarket parts was perfectly fine. That's where I fall here in Toyota land too.