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Discussion in '100-Series Cruisers' started by cruzerDave, Aug 4, 2016.
I got locking compression latches.
275021-90 Locking Vector T-Handle Latch | eBay
@Jcrider48 Do you have a link to the kind you are using? Photos of the build yet?
I posted a link in the previous post after I sent it.
I haven't built my drawers yet.
These seem like overkill unless you are wanting to lock valuable hardware in the drawers. So far I've found latches to be unnecessary- the KISS drawers stay put.
It's a requirement for transport of restricted firearms in Canada. Personally I think it's easier to just use a pelican case.
I went with these for my KISS drawers. These are plastic, but you can get them in stainless steel (20 vs. 100 USD per lock).
Really simple to install with a 50 mm hole saw.
Will try to take pictures and post of them installed.
I simply wanted an added level of security of locking my tools, supplies and guns. I also wanted a latch that will compress to prevent any rattling.
This post is the subindex for HANDLES, PULLS, & LATCHES - for the full index of customizations see Customization Index
Great selection of options from TCH, they supply the hardware for musicians to lug their gear in so affordable too:
500 - Handles - Case Hardware - TCH
Inexpensive (only $4!), foam handles, and sprung to prevent rattling (these are the ones you see in my early photos)
Surface Mount Handle - Surface Mount Handles - TCH
Vector t-handles come in lots of styles, but here is an inexpensive, lockign style @Jcrider48 went with:
275021-90 Locking Vector T-Handle Latch | eBay
(@Jcrider48 would love pic of one of your vector t-handles installed)
Amazon.com: Buyers Products L8815 T-Handle Latch (Latch,T-Handle,Sst,Sgl Pt W/Gskt & Ch545): Automotive
NOTE: when prototyping I tried several t-handles and found small ones (<2") are difficult at best or painful at worst when pulling 85 pounds of gear open. Don't go small unless you have to.
Any thoughts regarding Sikkens Cetol Marine varnish?
^Whatever you use let it cure thoroughly before installing it in your truck. The vapors from the raptor liner I used were pretty strong for a couple of weeks, and still noticeable almost 2 months later.
^I'll second that^
I used Minwax Polyshades on my drawers. Even after almost two months, you can still get a whiff of it in the LC.
Sikkens makes interior and exterior wood product too. I made the mistake of using the exterior on inside of a cabin once, thinking it would be a good idea since its not heated all the time. It took a full year for the fumes to dissipate!
On another note I saw a great drawer build today on Instagram where someone used TrekPak dividers for storage drawer dividers. It was awesome.
Here is the link to TrekPak:
I saw that as well, but I didn't see a universal option on the TrekPak site. Maybe something in development?
I'm kind of curious, what is the ratio of people going with the cut outs vs flat tops on the drawers to add their own handles?
I filled out the survey to get on the next run and requested cut outs myself. I guess in my mind its just one more thing to have to buy and install and at this point I'd probably rather not.
Also, has anyone routed channels inside the drawers for dividers? I know there was talk about it but wanted to know if anyone had actually done it that could share their experience and pictures.
@Douglas S I don't see any either I thought about just comparing drawer depth and size to the pelican case specs to see if they offer some kits that would be useful.
For those interested we are running 57% cutouts and 43% blanks for your own handles.
It sorta sucks for me because it doubles the number of kits I have for sale from 3 to 6, which introduces hassles and headaches at the plywood shop. I have been waiting for one to emerge as the front runner in order to kill off the other, but it does not look like it is going to happen...
Another satisfied customer.
Thanks again Dave!
Hey Dave, I bought mine a while back but haven't installed them yet. I was going to install them today but realized my carpet was soaking wet from the notorious rear cargo hatch leak.
The carpet smells like mold and is 17 years old.
Will these drawers still fit properly if I remove the carpet completely from the cargo area? I wasn't sure if that would be an issue.
my guess is without a replacement of some kind of sound deadening material like carpet dynomat or a bed rug the noise increase will really suck.
thanks for the pic, glad you like them!
The only problem you might run into is drawers clearing the tailgate. On most (mine included) the bottom tailgate does not open flat, but at a slight angle - this is why the drawers are spaced up and you see that bottom front spacer in your directions. If you install over sheet metal I would simply shim the front whatever depth needed to make up the missing carpet and sound deadener - plywood is fine, buy the small 2x4' "work" panels at home depot et al - it won't be visible so could be any grade. Also, I'm not positive the 3rd row seat brackets which 100 series bolt into might need some washers to shim up as well, I don't remember if those brackets were metal-on-metal with the frame or resting on the carpet... either way the answer would be yes you can, just need a few shims, no mods to the drawers.
As for noise, it's a good point by @ScubaJon but I suspect the layers of plywood and loaded drawers will act as deadeners on their own. You can always install without that, drive and try it (and please report findings!) and then take them out & install deadener later if needed.