KISS Drawers (Keep It Simple Storage) For 100 Series (5 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Hey'all - an update that the December run is at 25 - I'd like to get to 30 based on how the plywood works out.

A reminder this is the last run until end of January, so if you're interested please sign up here: https://goo.gl/forms/oMxbyVENWjV5Osmq2
 
Thx, I've been trying to figure out if it's possible to build a fridge slide out of 80/20 like the drawer frames. I'd really like to have a fridge slide that swings down so my wife can reach it, but the Tembo Tusk Loadspotter costs more than the fridge did.

Still spendy but slightly more affordable, maybe this will work for you:

Alu-Cab Tilting Fridge Slide

I was hoping to go that route but it looks like my fridge won't fit it
 
Got mine put in today since I was off work. I haven't decided if I'm going to put the lower front trim on yet or not, but everything works.

IMG_0157.JPG
 
IMPORTANT INSTALL NOTE

Two guys have run into problems where a drawer is not sliding smoothly, as a result of the drawer bottom not fully seating into the dado on the sides. I wanted to make sure everyone understands this is a critical dimension, and the width of the drawers even 1/16" off will affect the sliding. During assembly measure the underside of the drawers and make sure the dimensions in the attached picture are consistent from one end to the other. If not use a clamp or place weights on a side to compress them during assembly. Please triple check this dimension as you assemble them, and if you have any doubts I recommend SKIPPING THE GLUE as once that sets up we are into a more complicated fix.

Screen Shot 2016-11-13 at 9.03.40 AM.png
 
Super stoked on the drawers:grinpimp: These are extremely well made and fit excellent. Thank you Dave! Has anyone stained theirs yet? If so, what'd you use? Post pics please!
drawers.JPG
 
@mrbigboy I haven't seen any stains done yet, can't wait to see what you try!

I really recommend a dark stain, as the light wood really reflects sunlight as oyu may have noticed. Perhaps test on the underside of the wings since they are easily removed?

Also was wondering, are you going to install the bottom front trim piece? Debating whether to keep including that, and if people aren't using it might stop cutting it....?
 
Last edited:
RE- Stain-paint etc.

I plan to use Upol bed liner on the top and drawer interiors, and I have already treated the outside drawers and drawer faces with a textured finish by rustoleum. The rustoleum textured finish is not as robust at bed liner, but it looks great- a good choice for vertical surfaces that won't get much abrasion. I'll post up some pics soon.
 
@mrbigboy I haven't seen any stains done yet, can't wait to see what you try!

I really recommend a dark stain, as the light wood really reclects sunlight as oyu may have noticed. Perhaps test on the underside of the wings since they are easily removed?

Also was wondering, are you going to install the bottom front trim piece? Debating whether to keep including that, and if people aren't using it might stop cutting it....?

Good idea on testing stains on the underside of the wings. I'll definitely do that. I was leaning towards a light stain initially, but the darker makes sense with reflection being an issue. I'll probably also throw one of those rubber diamond plate style pads on top for extra protection. Whichever direction I go, I'll post up when it's all finished.
I'll be attaching the bottom trim pieces after the stain.
 
Put this under the "dumb question" heading: I am assuming the left "wing" (looking to the front) allows for jack removal, true?
Not a dumb question - yes the plywood is notched a bit more there in order to allow removal of the plastic cover, and then, with some finagling (sp?) from below and above, to get the jack out in case you ever needed it. As I don't have bumpers with good lift point yet for my hilift, this was necessity for me.
 
I may experiment with some Zeuss fasteners to secure the left wing for fast removal, eliminating the problem all together.
 
I was talking to Dave via email about carpet and he suggested I post up here. I'm planning on covering mine in cheap marine carpet, likely this stuff from Home Depot: TrafficMASTER Seafront - Color Gunnel Gray Marine Indoor/Outdoor 6 ft. Carpet-7DD4N470072FT - The Home Depot

Figured I'd share in case anyone was wondering. I'll likely give the whole system a good stain then cover the top pieces, drawer faces, and bottom pieces as a lining. I'll post up of course as I go.

This looks like a good idea!
 
cruzerDave: Thanks for the answer to my dumb "not so dumb" question. I did see the gap but wasn't sure. Good job!

As an aside (no hijack intended): I hear u on the hilift point issue. Been struggling with that in that most bumpers I see don't have any lifting locations. Just bought an X-Jack as the consensus is that factory jack/X-jack combo seems to be the "safe" option. Have heard one or two times that still need a hilift in the quiver.
 
@Live to Ski - and not to perpetuate a thread jack but have you looked at the wheel hooks for hilifts? I have one and they work fine. Only problem is if you are lifting for a flat, you need to lift the flat wheel, then set the truck down on something you've scavenged, like big flat rocks or stacks of 2x6 or who knows what - no guarantee you'll find anything - hence my desire to still get to the bottle jack.

@SurfSwitch if you are looking to make dividers, one idea I had but not done yet is to vertically cut the drawer sides *before* assembly with a table saw every 3-6" the length of them, 1/16-1/8" deep - most blades rip close to 1/8" wide, no dado required. Then procure some plastic in 3/32, slide down into the slot you want, and voila, adjustable dividers. If that doesn't make sense I can model it and post here. Only reason i haven't done it is workload;)
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom