KISS Drawers (Keep It Simple Storage) For 100 Series

abuck99

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[QUOTE="cruzerDave, post:

@SurfSwitch if you are looking to make dividers, one idea I had but not done yet is to vertically cut the drawer sides *before* assembly with a table saw every 3-6" the length of them, 1/16-1/8" deep - most blades rip close to 1/8" wide, no dado required. Then procure some plastic in 3/32, slide down into the slot you want, and voila, adjustable dividers. If that doesn't make sense I can model it and post here. Only reason i haven't done it is workload;)[/QUOTE]

lots of ways to create dividers post install: tack in some aluminum channel and slide 1/4" ply in the channel, or vertically sandwich some molding strips inside the drawers at various placements then slide in 1/4" plywood or plastic in between to make removable dividers.
 

cruzerDave

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lots of ways to create dividers post install: tack in some aluminum channel and slide 1/4" ply in the channel, or vertically sandwich some molding strips inside the drawers at various placements then slide in 1/4" plywood or plastic in between to make removable dividers.
got any sauce on that channel? Everything I find is too thick/bulky/wide, although I have been focused on architectural in order to not have to round edges on the dividers and have snug/rattle-free fit...
upload_2016-11-23_10-33-30.png
 

abuck99

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you can find the channel(like pictured) in 2ft sections at HD or Lowes- in the metals area where you buy tube, rod, angle etc
 

danadog

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@cruzerDave , what stops the drawer from sliding out all the way? Are latches required to keep the drawers closed? Are you able to provide some detail pics of the mounting in a 80 series?
 

cruzerDave

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Drawers slide on an ultra-high molecular weight (UHMW) plastic slide - it allows the drawers to slide with some pressure, but otherwise they do not move. It is awesome on a grade, as no banging open or shut like with bearing slides.

I use a 'stop bolt' that keeps you from pulling the drawer open for the last 10" - this is enough to reach in and get stuff, but keep the drawer form opening all the way and coming off the tracks. You can easily remove this if you want to remove the drawer (a KISS solution;)

Post of the mounting bolts over in the 80 thread
 

screendoor

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My drawers are mostly finished. I used two bottles of tintable u-pol raptor bedliner on the exposed surfaces. I still need to install the aluminum edge protector and setup the wings with magnets to hold them down. I had two shops quote $300 for bedliner (Rhinoliner at $7/sq ft and I wanted to cover 44sq ft) and one shop quoted $400. I paid roughly $150 for the kit and prep.

Here is an album of pictures I took during the bedlining process.

 
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cruzerDave

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screendoor

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Yes, that is the kit I bought. I only used two bottles, so it may have been better to buy two bottles and a gun individually. I have no experience with bedliner, so I don't know how thick it "should" be. This seems like a smooth thin coat which is fine for what I think I need.

I did not scuff the plywood. Reading about the bedliner online, it sounded like I needed some sort of primer. I had initially bought an oil based matte spar urethane spray from Home Depot ($8) that I was going to use as a primer. When I was at the auto paint store I asked what he recommended for a primer and he pointed me towards a $16 spray can, so I used that. As you can see in the photos, it put a very light coat on the working surfaces. Time will tell if the bedliner has good adhesion.

When I went to the auto paint shop, they had the U-POL raptor kit in stock and he said they use it on all of their trucks and are very happy with it.

To get the tint, the guy had a binder with pages of colors with various tints of each color in rectangles on a page, and a hole punched in the middle of each rectangle (in order to more easily color match against a surface). I told him the color I was looking for and he opened the binder to the beige/tan page. I took the page out of the binder and walked out to the cruiser and matched up the color I was looking for. I tried to pick a darker two tone color by comparing colors to the rear pillar. Of course, I crossed my fingers hoping I would end up with a good color. I ended up with S1426 (Jasper). The paint company is Valspar. Below is a pic of the tint label.

 
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cruzerDave

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cruzerDave

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I installed these KUL LED lights inside the drawers. AAA Battery powered, motion activated low profile. $21 for 3 lights on Amazon.
Kuled 10-led Wireless Motion Sensing Stick-on Anywhere Step LED Light Bar with Magnetic Strip, Pure White, 3-Pack - - Amazon.com
Outstanding solution, thanks for sharing!

I am going to try a strip of EL tape when i have some time, spec'd to 12v so I don't have to deal with batteries, just not sure if it will be bright enough, or the best way to switch them on as the door opens, maybe some sort of magnet/reed switch...

Amazon.com: 1 Meter El Strip, El Tape (White) + Dc 12v Inverter: Patio, Lawn & Garden
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abuck99

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Thanks Dave-

I wanted easy- no wires. I figured these will go at least a year on a set of batteries with the limited amount of time I spend in the drawers. The timer shuts the light off if there is no movement with in about 30sec.
 

danadog

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Anyone plan on installing paddle latches in theirs? Something like these? I wanted the ability to lock mine so I can use it for legal restricted firearms transport here in Canada.

McMaster-Carr
 
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