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Discussion in '100-Series Cruisers' started by cruzerDave, Aug 4, 2016.
These installs are great!
Sure, I used 24" extra heavy duty slides from Lee Valley, which are attached to the top of the drawers with 8 L-brackets (around 2.5"-3"). The outer slides are bolted to the L-brackets using 1 bolt through the top hole of each bracket, and the inner slides are bolted to slotted angle iron. I cut a piece of 3/4" ply to just fit the fridge, as I'm not using tie downs (bolted up through the ply into the fridge feet instead), and that ply is attached to the angle iron on each side. Once the whole thing was put together, I positioned it on the drawers and marked where the L-bracket feet landed, then drilled through the drawer top and bolted up from inside the drawer with large fender washers, 2 bolts for each L-bracket. Clearance is a little tight when pulling the drawer out, so you need to make sure the bolt heads don't hang down too far.
Here's another pic with the slide extended, where you can better see how everything's attached. Happy to grab some more detailed pics if anyone wants.
@cruzerDave , very nice design work and kudos on coming out with an AFFORDABLE ready-built solution. DIY-ing something like this is cool but not ideal since there isn't much $$ to be saved by doing so...
I do have one question about your system after reading through this thread - my interest being potentially using this as a base for a sleeping platform in a 100 series. Lets say I made another piece of plywood that is intended to attach to the front of the drawer system, and form a continuous sleeping surface along with the top "shelf", will it clear the top of the 2nd row seats when folded down flat, and by how much?
Thanks for the kudos, happy to see folks enjoying what just started as a diy for myself
The seats don't fold flat, if you look at the very first post in this thread you can see they are higher against the front seats than at the drawers. To get fully flat I would guess you would need an additional 2-3 inches on top of the drawer area, but a better approach in my opinion would be to just span the gap with a 6" piece and put a foam mattress down to sleep on - at least, that's my plan one of these days. Yes your head would be a bit higher but I don't think it would be super noticeable.
Hey @Bwood is that ARB a 50 or 37?
I've slept in my LC two times since installing the drawers. Both times I slept great (I usually don't due to uneven surfaces or slope, which drives me nuts). Even though the middle seats don't fold all the way flat, it's not even noticeable that there's a slight difference in height from my head to toes. Like @cruzerDave mentioned, a thick sleeping pad should do the trick. I use an Exped Mega mat which is quite thick (around 4" or so) and a big pillow. I also stuffed the "gap" between the drawer platform and the folded seats with a rolled up blanket. I couldn't be happier with this set up for car camping solo or with my son.
It's a 50
Awesome. I just bought a 50 and assumed it would fit in my 80 with the KISS, but was a bit worried. Thanks!
Finally got around to installing mine. Still pondering what to cover it with. Probably carpet on top and bed liner inside the drawers.
@mrbigboy and @cruzerDave , thank you for the info. Mrbigboy, how tall are you, and how do you manage to support the overhung Megamat in front of the seats? Shown below is a piece of plywood only 74" long, as opposed to the Megamat which is 78":
I recline the driver's seat back and wedge a large duffle bag full of clothes between drivers seat and the folded back seat. I put a tool bag and some boots on the floor for the bag to sit on. It isn't pretty, but it works fine for me.
Dave - Any idea on when this might be available next?
Guys - Finished up my install this past weekend. I am so stoked to get these out and use them!
@cruzerDave these things are amazing. The fit is incredible! I tip my hat to you sir.
I carpeted the top and drawer faces (patches stick great!) - I still need to do the inside of the drawers with Linex (or similar) to prevent any liquids from leaking out. I added piano hinges to both wings for ease of access for storage. The passenger side received the Viair constant duty kit and tank. ARB slide and fridge finished it out. Feel free to ask any questions! Thanks again Dave!
Final Viair Install 01 by BigRogers79 posted Mar 2, 2017 at 11:29 AM
Final Viair Install 02 by BigRogers79 posted Mar 2, 2017 at 11:29 AM
Drawer Hinges Operational by BigRogers79 posted Mar 2, 2017 at 11:29 AM
Finished Carpet 01 by BigRogers79 posted Mar 2, 2017 at 11:29 AM
Finished Carpet 02 by BigRogers79 posted Mar 2, 2017 at 11:29 AM
Whooooaaaaa.... just awesome install and customization there @BigRogers79, I tip my hat right back at ya!
Do you want to become an official KISS drawer modifier and installer?!? I'll give you a discount on the drawers at volume and I bet you can start up a good business
Any tips/tricks for sourcing and applying the carpet?
I'm interested in more info on your hinge install.
Regarding the official KISS drawer modifier and installer note, ABSOLUTELY! We can talk off line regarding that. PM me when you get a moment. BTW, we need to get you to do some patches! LOL
As far as tips and tricks: I used a medium tack spray adhesive (Loctite Brand) that was just sticky enough to apply the carpet, but not terrible to work with. Used a couple sets of hand clamps to hold in place and a staple gun to secure. I did the top, wings and the drawer faces all in one pass, and went back with a new razor blade to open things up. I did have to touch up the drawer faces with a more sticky adhesive just to secure the edges. I am going to add some architectural 3/4" aluminum trim to the front deck edge to protect it from wear and tear.
@BigRogers79 Where did you source the carpet? That looks great and is exactly what I'm going for.
Carpet came from Lowes. It is their indoor outdoor carpet from the large rollers, has a black felt backing.
It was just a simple 3/4" piano hinge (30" in length). I mounted it flat on the top of the deck, laid the carpet right over the top.
So my plan is to add 3 strips of "L-track" on the top of the drawers. To make sure the top is flush I will add 3/4" ply for the space between the tracks. I actually already have some left over oak ply from a train table I built for my son and I hope its enough. I need a car seat anchor which is what started me down this route but I also want to have a way to tie down gear and "stuff" that needs to go up top. I also want to figure out a way to add a little divider that I can lock in to the track to keep groceries or whatever from being able to slide around. I know this adds weight but I think it'll be advantageous to me in the long run. I'm not sure if I'll add anything to raise the height of the wings or whether I'll add a hinge, I'm thinking of doing the magnets but still need to decide.
I ordered 3 of these L-tracks 48" long that I assume I'll need to cut down a little bit. The olive color is on sale for $10 a track which helped me pull the trigger. I also ordered 6 of these single stud ring fittings but there are a bunch of different ones that I'm sure I'll order more of after I get the tracks installed and figure out how I'm going to use them. I didn't buy the track fasteners and am hoping that I can find them locally but may end up ordering them anyway. I don't think I need SS but we'll see what I can find when the track comes in.