Scored 2007 LC w/174K AHC (1 Viewer)

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[QUOTE="2001LC,

Yes. The one bolt facing down is time consuming as it must be wrenched all the way by hand. Toyota engines really helped us here with the forward nut coming in from above/top. I start both by hand then use my air tool on top bolt[/QUOTE]

Trying to get a visual on what your describing about the bolt pointing down- you must be talking about the stabilizer bar bushing mounting screw.

I was mostly wondering how you removed the stabilizer bar with out unbolting the torsion bars from the LCA. Is there enough room to pivot stabilizer bar and slide it out and keeping the TBs mounted?
 
Yes, I was talking about the bolt comes out down (rear bolt). T-bar is in the way of this bolt, so wrench 1/3 turn at a time and then just clears T-bar.

Yes stabilizer bar clears T-bar easy, if you find the path. I just push one end forward past and near brake caliper, until other end clears T-bar. Then drop the cleared end and reverse direction in a halve circular motions under front end.

It's best to have new Stabilizer-bar ready to go in, under rig as old comes out to follow path back in exactly!
 
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I've no real experience with AHC, but I think they're cool too. Neat how they'll stay in "H" when in low gear for off road clearance, otherwise return to neutral depending on speed. I really appreciate being able to adjust height for working under, in engine bay or body not to mention loading.

Thanks, I've been reading through "Definitive list of AHC ***".

Interesting the particular "King's" you just posted do not fit LC 100 series, only LX470. Interesting too, LC & LX coils have different OEM parts numbers even when both W/AHC!
 
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Interesting the particular "King's" you just posted do not fit LC 100 series, only LX470. Interesting too, LC & LX coils have different OEM parts numbers even when both W/AHC!
According to King's website they fit the active height control 100 series (LC or LX), not really sure why they wouldn't work. The AHC system is the same across all years, the coil buckets are all the same, they should work.
 
Looking at Toyota 2007 I see:
48231-6A780 LH w/AHC
48231-6A770 RH w/AHC
Lexus 2007:
48231-6A740 LH w/AHC
48231-6A730 RH w/AHC

Left is a few $ more, I assume price difference because taller/heavier for gas tank. But some difference or part number would be the same for LC & LX. ???.. Siffness, color or perhaps a sticker that states Lexus???
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Found a quote by @PADDO that explains difference in LC & LX coils: "LC AHC coils are a little bit cheaper than LX coils. They aren't an identical part (6.5 turns v 5.5, longer, smaller wire diameter) but by all accounts LCs are an equivalent to LX coils i.e. They do the same job"
Definitive list of AHC maintenance items
 
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I've update AHC screen shot #139 Just scored a 2007 LC with some good info & recommendation from @PADDO for tweaking the AHC system.

@abuck99 I also cleaned up typos in post #162 where I stated T-bar, when meaning stabilizer bar. It should make more sense now, Sorry!

@PabloCruise I've finished reading "Definitive list of maintenance items", long thread but well worth the read! Hope your dial-in now?

I've been in Las Vegas for few days so nothing done on 07 lately. Weathers turning wintry next few days so I'll not get much done this week. I may tweak AHC and do a single drain & fill on transmission today depending on weather this afternoon/evening, before digging into timing belt in next week or so.

Can you believe they're predicting snow for Saturday. We saw drier & warmer weather this last winter than we're seeing now in spring!
 
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Thanks for the clarification- I wondered about that- assumed what you meant.


I replaced my front end links and all bushes after my replacing my suspension- finding the ends of the torsion bar (where the links go through) oval shaped from extensive wear. I've had the replacemt torsion bar for months and been procrastinating removing it as I thought I would have to remove the TBs again(lazy yes I know).

Thanks for notes.
 
I figured you spotted the typo, you've a good eye.

I'm going to add inspecting links & stabilizer bar on future restoration after what I've seen both on the 07 & 01, which are both considered rust free rigs. The link cushions must hold in moisture, leading to this issue of Oval hole & links rusting then snapping.

Did you happen to measure dia. of links?
 
Did you happen to measure dia. of links?

....What was left of them..... not much to measure. I'm looking for the images to post up. They were worn through greater than 50%. You can tell when the links are angled in one direction while the suspension is at rest. Didnt look natural.
 
I didn't measure new links either, only new & old stabilizer bar link hole at 13.25 & 14.00 mm. I'm curious as to how much play was design in.
 
Here's a couple of photos of the links I removed (167k miles)

I'm working with Jason at TT to make some extended links, and when I get those back I'll swap out the torsion bar when I install the extended links- posting up a pick of the worn out Tbar

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Did a little tweaking getting AHC pressures as good as I can without using rear spacer, coils or both.

Here's the numbers after tightening T-bars (LH 1 CW turn, RH 2 1/2 CW turns) leveling side to side, raising front a tad and lowering Front Pressure Sensor to the desired sweet spot of 6.8Mpga-g
1T T-bar LH, 2 1-2T T-bar RH, Full tank, all seats.JPG


Update #139 with these AHC number after adjusting.
 
Stock as this one, is not near as challenging as what you're dealing with.

@PADDO suggested I could bring rear down to 6.0Mpa-g with 30mm spacer, combined with new factory coils would yield near perfect ~5.5Mpa-g.
 
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Cough a break in the weather a few days ago and did a drain & fill to transmission. Fluid level good, smell good, color ok (darkening as one would expect).

What a PITA without a dip stick. Toyota made even checking fluid level, smell and color a PITA. I had to use a lot of care around exhaust not to burn myself getting fill plug off & on. After post drain and fill test drive/transmission warm-up, I melted a hole in my clear rubber hose I used to fill, as it brushing up against exhaust. Lucky it was longer than I needed so I just shorten, clipping off at hole.

Ran hose down to transmission fill hole.
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Old fluid in jar looked and smelt ok.
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I thought of a solution to shielding the exhaust pipe so you don't burn your arm, or tools, fillers etc. you could use some fiberglass exhaust wrap or this bolt on exhaust heat shield made by DEI( design engineering inc). Easy on & off for the job. Prob other uses for it as well.

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One more pic

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I thought of a solution to shielding the exhaust pipe so you don't burn your arm, or tools, fillers etc. you could use some fiberglass exhaust wrap or this bolt on exhaust heat shield made by DEI( design engineering inc). Easy on & off for the job. Prob other uses for it as well.

I wonder how effective this wrap. I notice that on long trip, the bottom of the front cup holder gets warmed. Not hot enough to bother me, just a little annoying when you have cold drinks cause it makes the ice melts faster. I been meaning to put some sort of insulation underneath.
 

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