what would be your first guess at what the problem is, if when you turn the steering wheel something goes"clunk"....almost faintly.
and it can be felt in the wheel itself.
and it can be felt in the wheel itself.
its clunking
- Thread starter johnnybravo300
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is the steering stock or a power steering conversion?
- Thread starter
- #3
stock.
tie rod ends probably? is that the pittman arm that comes off the box?
tie rod ends probably? is that the pittman arm that comes off the box?
3 things to check.. Is it when your actually moving during your turn that it clunks?
If so I'm betting it's the bushings, they are probably stock and probably gone.. This will allow the springs to shift side to side approx 1/2". if your going to do bushings then I'd almost recommend doing a lift kit at the same time.. I've got a spare FJ40 lift kit at the house, used but fine if your interested make me an offer. I can bring it to Ks Crawl even. But if not then order stock bushings and replace them. Reason I offer the lift kit is I"m a cheap source of parts and if your gonna do bushings then I really wouldn't recommend doing it to stock springs cause within a few months your gonna want a lift anyway..
Test procedure would be to look in the bushing area on the shackle and see if there are any shoulders left on the bushings.
If so I'm betting it's the bushings, they are probably stock and probably gone.. This will allow the springs to shift side to side approx 1/2". if your going to do bushings then I'd almost recommend doing a lift kit at the same time.. I've got a spare FJ40 lift kit at the house, used but fine if your interested make me an offer. I can bring it to Ks Crawl even. But if not then order stock bushings and replace them. Reason I offer the lift kit is I"m a cheap source of parts and if your gonna do bushings then I really wouldn't recommend doing it to stock springs cause within a few months your gonna want a lift anyway..
Test procedure would be to look in the bushing area on the shackle and see if there are any shoulders left on the bushings.
Oh.. Second thing is tie rod ends.. Grab the tie rod and pull side to side or have someone sit in the truck and turn the wheel, last thing is the relay box on the front drivers side of the frame, that arm will possibly have play in it.. See if the bottom of it moves side to side when turning, it can be adjusted by the set screw on top but don't go too tight or you loose return to center.
- Thread starter
- #6
it does it when its turned off and sitting still..just turn the wheel slightly and it clunks. feels like a tie rod end when i grab hold and shake. not much but a little.
From the SOR site, Does a better job of explaining it that I do! 
Check this and report back.. We'll get you figured out..
"Does your Land Cruiser wander all over the road? Catch lines or grooves in the highway? Are you running large, wide tires? The factory Land Cruiser steering system was designed mainly for off road use. That is the reason why FJ40, FJ45 and FJ55’s have a center arm assembly (aka - bell crank, idler arm, steering pivot). The center arm was designed to absorb the shock or energy from the vehicle hitting a rock or bump in the trail as not to beat up the steering box. So as the miles go on and on, the center arm takes all the abuse.
In order to check the condition of the center arm assembly, have someone get inside the car and rock the steering wheel back and forth about 180 degrees. While this is being done position yourself in front of the car and watch the movement, it should pivot on it’s own axis and should not move side to side. If it does rock from side to side it must be adjusted or rebuilt. If you tried adjust your center arm and you’re still all over the road, it’s time to rebuild it. It’s an easy job to do. Remember to grease the center arm prior to adjustment. Please refer to your factory Toyota Chassis Body manual for repair procedures.
#096-0A - Specter is happy to announce that we can again offer parts to rebuild the early type center arm assembly. The Toyota kit has been discontinued for some time so no parts have been available to rebuild them. This new kit contains just the parts required for a rebuild, the bushings, the races, the felt dust seals and the o-ring. This kit requires that you reuse the center shaft, brackets, hardware and both woodruff keys.
#096-0B - Rebuild kit comes complete with all the internal parts needed to do the overhaul. "
Check this and report back.. We'll get you figured out..
"Does your Land Cruiser wander all over the road? Catch lines or grooves in the highway? Are you running large, wide tires? The factory Land Cruiser steering system was designed mainly for off road use. That is the reason why FJ40, FJ45 and FJ55’s have a center arm assembly (aka - bell crank, idler arm, steering pivot). The center arm was designed to absorb the shock or energy from the vehicle hitting a rock or bump in the trail as not to beat up the steering box. So as the miles go on and on, the center arm takes all the abuse.
In order to check the condition of the center arm assembly, have someone get inside the car and rock the steering wheel back and forth about 180 degrees. While this is being done position yourself in front of the car and watch the movement, it should pivot on it’s own axis and should not move side to side. If it does rock from side to side it must be adjusted or rebuilt. If you tried adjust your center arm and you’re still all over the road, it’s time to rebuild it. It’s an easy job to do. Remember to grease the center arm prior to adjustment. Please refer to your factory Toyota Chassis Body manual for repair procedures.
#096-0A - Specter is happy to announce that we can again offer parts to rebuild the early type center arm assembly. The Toyota kit has been discontinued for some time so no parts have been available to rebuild them. This new kit contains just the parts required for a rebuild, the bushings, the races, the felt dust seals and the o-ring. This kit requires that you reuse the center shaft, brackets, hardware and both woodruff keys.
#096-0B - Rebuild kit comes complete with all the internal parts needed to do the overhaul. "
- Thread starter
- #8
the shaft in that box does have alot of play in it...a good 1/4 each way i bet. seems wallowed out or something.
that is the box thats bolted on right in front of the grill behind the bumper right??? it bolts into a corner.
that is the box thats bolted on right in front of the grill behind the bumper right??? it bolts into a corner.
- Thread starter
- #9
yes i think thats it. i just went out to look again.
so id prolly need the 096-0B kit for mine i would think.
is there any reason to spend another 100 or so for the oem kit? i know factory parts are usually always more for anything..but didnt know if it really mattered on something like this or not. i usually get aftermarket replacemant parts for my bike except for bearings, seals and gaskets. certain things like that i like to stick with oem. thanks.
so id prolly need the 096-0B kit for mine i would think.
is there any reason to spend another 100 or so for the oem kit? i know factory parts are usually always more for anything..but didnt know if it really mattered on something like this or not. i usually get aftermarket replacemant parts for my bike except for bearings, seals and gaskets. certain things like that i like to stick with oem. thanks.
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Are you planning on power steering in the near future? If so, I'd suggest saving your money. Adjust/tighten all steering linkages as best you can, grease well, and start gathering parts for the conversion. There are good lists in the tech section on this site to get you started.
Go aftermarket or ping the mud for sale section for one that's in good shape.. Zane? You around? you got your old one?
- Thread starter
- #12
my power steering conversion dream might be on the back burner for now. if rebuiding the center arm will take the crazy steering away it would be fine with me.
i need to take care of some rust, get rid of these dreaded bench seats and find a jeep seat or something for the back...not to mention figure out a seatbelt system that might keep us in the vehicle in case something did happen. i want to make it more comfortable to drive and safer first.
the p/s would make it more fun to drive but i dont really need it right now i guess. as much as id like to have everything RIGHT NOW i just cant. eheheh
plus my wife would want to drive it even more if it was easier to steer!!!
p/s and front disk for sure someday. if i came across a good deal id jump on it..but i know thats usualy a pretty decent expense doing those two.
oh yeah...i need a soft top before winter too....im not putting the hard top back on.
that will be 600 + by itself. see...its already adding up...but aint it fuuuunnnnn!!! hahahah
i need to take care of some rust, get rid of these dreaded bench seats and find a jeep seat or something for the back...not to mention figure out a seatbelt system that might keep us in the vehicle in case something did happen. i want to make it more comfortable to drive and safer first.
the p/s would make it more fun to drive but i dont really need it right now i guess. as much as id like to have everything RIGHT NOW i just cant. eheheh
plus my wife would want to drive it even more if it was easier to steer!!!
p/s and front disk for sure someday. if i came across a good deal id jump on it..but i know thats usualy a pretty decent expense doing those two.
oh yeah...i need a soft top before winter too....im not putting the hard top back on.
that will be 600 + by itself. see...its already adding up...but aint it fuuuunnnnn!!! hahahah