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- #61
Moved the AC drier and angled it up above the bumper.
Build IH8MUD??? more like IH8CASH, new rig, new addiction, my build, let's Begin!
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- #62
Painted the bottom side of the bumper black, kinda hides the AOE cutout logo.
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- #63
Just wanted to post this up so I remember what I used on the bumpers and soon sliders.
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- #64
Removed complete interior today. Will also be removing the headliner next so I can cover all metal with DEI heat barrier material.
Just make sure you understand how radiant barriers work before you do your install or you could be wasting your money. 
Without an air gap, they are a conductor not an insulator.
Without an air gap, they are a conductor not an insulator.
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- #66
I was looking at another undercarpet barrier that has that factory looking furry stuff on the underside. You think that would be a better choice @scottryana
Definitely a better choice for the floor! The roof, you might have a little air gap between the roof and the headliner so it wouldn't be bad. But on the floor there wouldn't be any air gap and the heat would just get transferred. The added benefit with the under carpet barrier you just picked is that it would also cut down on the noise as well as heat.
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- #68
Here is the link to what i was planning on using since we stock it at our shop.
Heat Screen 010401 | Purchase DEI, CryO2, Ny-Trex, Boom Mat & SPA Turbo Products | Design Engineering, Inc. - Thermal Performance Products
Thanks for the info Ryan, I will order that for the floors then.
Heat Screen 010401 | Purchase DEI, CryO2, Ny-Trex, Boom Mat & SPA Turbo Products | Design Engineering, Inc. - Thermal Performance Products
Thanks for the info Ryan, I will order that for the floors then.
Sorry just reread what I wrote. I was on my phone and it doesn't seem very clear.
But with the shiny DEI material you need to have an air gap because the aluminized material still gets hot but it has a very low emissivity, meaning that it doesn't radiate that heat, but if you lay carpet on it, or put material touching it, that heat just conducts from the aluminized material to the material touching it.
So if you have a place like the roof where you have some air gap the aluminized material should be good, but on the floors where you lay the carpet right on top, emissivity doesn't matter, insulation factor matters more so the thick felt/foam material works better.
But with the shiny DEI material you need to have an air gap because the aluminized material still gets hot but it has a very low emissivity, meaning that it doesn't radiate that heat, but if you lay carpet on it, or put material touching it, that heat just conducts from the aluminized material to the material touching it.
So if you have a place like the roof where you have some air gap the aluminized material should be good, but on the floors where you lay the carpet right on top, emissivity doesn't matter, insulation factor matters more so the thick felt/foam material works better.
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- #70
Got it! Makes sense. So it will probably work fine on the doors.
Since I am planning on installing a sound system with a sub, sound deadening is going to be a bonus.
Since I am planning on installing a sound system with a sub, sound deadening is going to be a bonus.
It would work in the doors but in the doors I would recommend a vibration damper with an aluminum backing like fatmat, dynamat, hushmat, second skin, etc.
That gives you vibration dampening and some heat insulation.
So something like:
- Vibration damper (second skin, dynamat, etc) on floors and doors
- Small pieces of vibration damper on roof and then covered in the DEI aluminized heat blocker
- Felt/Foam material on the floor.
You can see how I did it in my build thread I think. I used the vibration damper and then a mass loaded vinyl barrier on the floor and it is pretty great!
That gives you vibration dampening and some heat insulation.
So something like:
- Vibration damper (second skin, dynamat, etc) on floors and doors
- Small pieces of vibration damper on roof and then covered in the DEI aluminized heat blocker
- Felt/Foam material on the floor.
You can see how I did it in my build thread I think. I used the vibration damper and then a mass loaded vinyl barrier on the floor and it is pretty great!
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- #72
Replaced both front seat gears & caps today. Old ones were worn so bad it wouldn't budge.
Looking great man!!
What do your 37 KO2's measure out too? I've been curious as to whether or not they are a true "37".. Sweet looking 80 by the way!
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- #75
Thanks guys, I believe they measured out to 36.8". I will confirm when I get back to work today.
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- #76
Just measured, mounted on wheel with 35psi, it's a 36.5"
Hopefully no trimming will be needed because I intend on keeping mudflaps and flares for now.
Maybe extend the bump stops. I will soon see, dying to get them on.
Hopefully no trimming will be needed because I intend on keeping mudflaps and flares for now.
Maybe extend the bump stops. I will soon see, dying to get them on.
Your KO2's are gonna rot just sitting quietly in a corner next to those shocks, you should give them to me and I'll make sure they stay nice! 
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- #78
It hurts me every time I walk passed them and see them sitting there face down in the corner. Poor things
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- #79
Cut up the front grille to fit around the winch. Planning on maybe doing a mesh screen of some sort with Toyota emblem. Will try out a couple different options and see what works best to provide more airflow as well.
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- #80
What I have in mind with this style mesh.
Thinking of painting the mesh portion black and the emblem in the silver color to match the armor.
Thinking of painting the mesh portion black and the emblem in the silver color to match the armor.