Husky 51 idle question.

[splitshot]

Just replaced a jug/piston rebuilt the carb..Been breaking it in for about 2 weeks. Ran like a champ till today, doesn't want to idle after being set down (even after carb adjustments).

Sitting on the floor of the shop, I noticed a substantial fuel leak from the filler cap. Could a bad O ring cause this?

.02 to check first??

 

[D'Animal]

Find out where your fuel leak is coming from first.

If it is a pin hole in your fuel line, it will not idle, be a little hard to start when cold and run like a Banshi when it does run.

 

[splitshot]

First noticed it when it started to drip on my boots. Suspected the filler cap, but I'll dive into it more tomorrow..

 

[D'Animal]

Call me when you are digging into it and I can give you all the possibilities.

 

[splitshot]

Thanks, will do, I figure I'll replace the fuel line first thing manana and we can start from there..

 

[splitshot]

Ok' starting to button this dude up, what plug gap should I be looking at? .020?

 

[D'Animal]

.020 is fine.

 

[splitshot]

Fuel leak fixed, O-ring on the fill cap.
Still having an issue with this one, I have 2 compression testers; one reads 90 and the other 95. With a new jug and piston. Why can't I get this ring to seat? Should be 100+, right? Thinking the dab of lucas I wiped the cylinder wall might be the culprit?

 

[D'Animal]

It may be a low compression model that is designed to run at a lower compression.

Look in the exhaust post and see if there is a groove in the top of the exhaust port.

 

[splitshot]

Had to put this aside for awhile, finally got to dive into it further..

Ok, here's the skinny before I take this thing to Marie's mechanic: No grove in the exhaust port..
Past history again..
New Jug and piston.
Carb kit.
New fuel lines.
Ran excellent for 2-3 loads.

Now: starts on the second pull, idles great (choke off) indefinitely. Idled it for 15 minutes in the shop and goosed up the throttle several times, and repeated. No problem, set it down, and it will idle indefinately.

Problem: Put a load on it, for about 15 to 20 minutes (still has good power and torque/sound). but set it down and it slowly seems to load up and die. No fuel mixture adjustment seems to cure this problem. At a loss here, something I'm overlooking before I haul it in?

 

[D'Animal]

Check the fuel tank vent. The temperatures are warmer now and the fuel may be expanding in the tank and pushing on the inlet needle. Next time it does it, loosen the fuel cap and see if it straightens itself out.

 

[splitshot]

Yep, overlooked the vent, and cracking the cap will save me from taking the whole back of this thing apart if it's not the problem, thanks.

Hope my next post is good news.

 

[splitshot]

Nope, best I can get is about 30 seconds of good idle when set down. Then it will load up and die (no difference, with or without the filler cap cracked). Sure acts like I need to look at this Walbro again, maybe I've got the needle set too high?

BTW, just got off the phone with Marie, she said the next time I talk to you to say hi.

 

[D'Animal]

Either:
A. Your L mixer screw is out a smidge too far (Doesn't make sense since it idle great when cold).
B. The main nozzle is leaking. (The main nozzle has a wafer valve in it that can stick if the saw has been sitting with fuel in it for a prolonged period of time or a harse chemical such as carb cleaner was used to clean the carburetor.)

Just guessing though.

 

[Weedhopper]

May be a long shot, but I had the same problem with a 41. Turned out to be the module. I always had to set it down gently otherwise it would stall. Finally died. It's a parts saw now.

 

[D'Animal]

That is a very good point.

May be a long shot, but I had the same problem with a 41. Turned out to be the module. I always had to set it down gently otherwise it would stall. Finally died. It's a parts saw now.

The circuit board inside the module may be "stuck" with the timing curve advanced. It should be advanced under load but retarded when not under load.

I don't know if the Husqvarna 51 even has a timing advancement built into their systems. I'll bet they do though.

 

[splitshot]

Ok, what's the next step? I was planning on getting back into the carb and doing a thorough check (remove the welch plugs this time) first...

 

[D'Animal]

Carburetor is a good place to start. The ignition being stuck would be very rare. The welch plugs are very shallow so when you remove them, be careful not to go too deep with the punch and damage the body of the carburetor.

 

[splitshot]

I remember when these parts were larger and you could actually see them.Had to get out my bug magnifier..


Yep, the pivot on the needle was sticking up well beyond where it should have been. Just ran it for over an hour, I'm happy..
That little spring? Try finding it on these floors (it's in the pic I swear)..


For what it cost to put this saw back in working order, I probably would have done better buying a new one. Some of us just enjoy rebuilding old junk, guess that's why we drive 40's..
Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[D'Animal]

Monocular?


I never used one of those. LOL