Wondering how you guys made sway bar link extensions after installing a lift kit? Thanks
How did you make sway bar link extensions? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter coldtaco
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I don't run mine, but if I did I would simply buy a longer bolt and metal sleeve, just like the factory but 2" longer, basic hardware store stuff.
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- #3
That's what I wanted to do but can't find any bolts long enough, at least not locally.
I got mine from Cruiser Outfitters. They work well and were reasonable.
(Scroll down to 70 series section)
(Scroll down to 70 series section)
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- #5
Thanks
well that sucks,,, all thread would work if you want a DIY.
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- #7
I got some all thread but wanted to see what others came up with.
I imagine supplies can be hard to come by in Anchorage in February. If you know the length and diameter of the bolts/nuts you need, just PM me. We can pick em up for you and mail em, if you wish.
All thread rod the proper length inside a piece of 1/2" EMT conduit on 1 side.
On the other is a quick disconnect: piece of angle with a bolt welded perpendicular on either end. 2X rod ends from true value hardware bolted into where the original rod bolted to. I loosen 2X nuts to remove this link. That disconnects my sway bar for flexibility off road.
On the other is a quick disconnect: piece of angle with a bolt welded perpendicular on either end. 2X rod ends from true value hardware bolted into where the original rod bolted to. I loosen 2X nuts to remove this link. That disconnects my sway bar for flexibility off road.
- Thread starter
- #10
I was thinking of how to make a quick disconnect. Will have to think about this. Thanks
You can disconnect/remove the factory linkfairly easy, it just takes longer. You only need a disconnect on 1 side not both. I am able to disconnect and reconnect mine by hand with a crescent wrench quickly. My true value is very extensive has rod ends in the small drawer section. I used a small piece of angle with a long bolt body welded to it for extra strength, but 3/16" or 1/4" thick bar stock would also work well.
You have to be carefull about it interfereing with the leaf spring if you make the link too thick.
If the lower welded bolt were replaced with a lynch pin and a washer and steel fence wire through the hole holding it on were used it would be faster and you could use the fence wire to help pull up on the sway bar to get it into the hole(sometimes troublesome) and to wire the link up and out of the way to the frame while off roading. Mine I just remove and put it in the tool box till I'm back on the road. Sometimes I drive home without it just more slowly/cautious with alot of body roll in turns.
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