Happy New Year Owner! 2008 GX470 (1 Viewer)

[Mute916]

Hi All,

Been surfing this forum for a while now and have to say, as of today, Dec 31st 2020, I bought my first GX470 and grinning from ear to ear. It is a 2008 without the Some questions I have...

Pics: 2008 Lexus GX470 12-31-20 - https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ah5tCdjphvxYkEPdRzKS8y29gZkF?e=K0lVDN

Here are the main details: (I have never lifted a truck/SUV so new to all this but reading a lot)

• 2008 GX470 with Navi
• No KDDS
• Does have small crack in the dash
• 150K miles
• Tons of service records for even headlight replacement
• Extremely clean underneath with no rust
• All electronics/airbags work
• Driver seat cover cracking. needs replaced
• New tires installed
• Headlights are a little foggy
• Paid $12.5k
• have about $6K up front to spend on upgrades

What would you guys suggest for the first $6k of upgrades?

1. I want to put a 3" lift, and be level. Maybe slight rake.

• Do I need to do 2.5" in the back? How does that work?
• Do I need to buy a Diff drop kit? Whats the benefit?
• Should I remove the airbag system going 3"?
• Do I need a long travel kit?
• Is there anything I need to consider when going that high vs a 2" or 2.5"

2. I would like front and rear bumpers.

• I say an Ironman in person and felt it stuck out too far towards the front. Is there any that are shorter?
• I like the full brush guard around the headlights
• Will be getting a the rear to match
• What bumper options are out there?

3. looking at installing wheel spacers.

• Should I get spidertrax?
• Should I just get a greater offset on rims instead?
• Is there negatives to spacers?

4. Looking at bigger tires for overlanding.

• Want to go with 34's so would that be 285/70/17?
• can you fit 35's by modding the inner fender?

Sorry for being a complete noob at this but I am learning a lot and reading as much as I can.

 

[NJGX]

1. I want to put a 3" lift, and be level. Maybe slight rake.

• Do I need to do 2.5" in the back? How does that work?

Give Treaty Oak Offroad a call or email to discuss your plans. They're super knowledgeable with Dobinsons suspension. You can also wait for an Ironman 4x4 suspension sale to roll around for a full lift kit. At 2.5"+, you will need new upper control arms to correct the caster when getting it all aligned again. If you don't it will be out of spec and drive terribly on the highway. SPC, JBA, and Freedom 4x4 are some popular options.

• Do I need to buy a Diff drop kit? Whats the benefit?

I am lifted about 3" without a diff drop kit. So far, so good lol. I decided to go without one since the ribs of my CVs are not rubbing or touching each other due to any extreme angles when daily driving. I have about 15k miles with my current setup, and 45k miles on a more modest 2" lift without any CV issues.

• Should I remove the airbag system going 3"?

Since the back is air sprung, tricking the springs to over inflate/lift that much will probably cause them to fail fairly quickly. Your best bet is to ditch the rear air completely and convert to traditional coils. You will need a coil conversion kit that includes upper and lower isolators. There are a few options out there, so shop around and check reviews.

• Do I need a long travel kit?

Probably not if your goal is more overlanding type off roading. If you do go mid-long travel, plan on spending at least 2x more on your suspension.

• Is there anything I need to consider when going that high vs a 2" or 2.5"

Rear brake lines should be extended. And don't forget about the high caster upper control arms I mentioned above.

2. I would like front and rear bumpers.

• I say an Ironman in person and felt it stuck out too far towards the front. Is there any that are shorter?

Ironman and ARB probably stick out the most (or appear to at least) due to the boxy/flat top shape and crash compliant crumple zones built into the bumper mount. There are many fab shops out there that have whatever style you can think of. The lowest profile once I can think of that offer the most clearance are either 4x4 Labs or Coastal Offroad if you can weld the kit together. There are maybe a dozen or so other options out there for you to choose from.

• I like the full brush guard around the headlights

This will rule out any half bumpers like Dissent or RRW, as well as a few hybrid/tube styles like Lil B's. Victory 4x4 just came out with the Strike bumper that can be optioned with hoops and I think it looks pretty good.

• Will be getting a the rear to match

Strike rear to match. But just like the front, there are a lot of options to go with in the back. Shop around for one with the features and look you want.

• What bumper options are out there?

Here's an outdated list, but it is somewhere to start at least.

3. looking at installing wheel spacers.

• Should I get spidertrax?

People wheel them hard with no issues. Other people say it will turn your truck into a death trap. They are fine as long as you install them properly, but they are just another possible point of failure.

• Should I just get a greater offset on rims instead?

I vote get rid of the stock chrome asap lol. +24mm offset really pulls them into the wheel well. I went with 17" diameter 8.5" wide -12mm offset wheels on 285/75r17s and am very pleased with the look. Stock wheel is 17x7.5 +24mm for reference.

• Is there negatives to spacers?

Potential injury or death if they are not torqued properly. Premature wheel bearing failure due to increased leverage on the hub (lower offset wheels will apply the same force as spacers)

4. Looking at bigger tires for overlanding.

• Want to go with 34's so would that be 285/70/17?

285/70r17 is just under 33" and can vary slightly by load rating and tire manufacturer. 285/75r17 is as close as you will get to 34. Even the BFG KO2s in 34x10.5 are only like 33.5 inches tall.

• can you fit 35's by modding the inner fender?

You will also have to flatten the pinch weld, remove the running board plastic, push the front of the fender liner forward (will probably be far out of the way if you get a bumper anyway), body mount chop, and extended bump stops. So yes it can be done, but it takes a decent amount of work. A few folks run Kenda Klever R/Ts in 35x10.5r17 and seem to like them a lot.

So a $6k mod budget should get you wheels and tires ($1.1-2k+), suspension ($1.5k+), and bumpers ($1.2-3k+). I'd start with a vehicle baseline first though. Replace all fluids and get it running as well as you can. Fix anything that is broken, and use that opportunity to upgrade parts if you can. Then go lift and tires, saving armor for last. And don't forget about upgrading skid plates and ditching the running boards for real sliders if you plan on doing anything more than fire service roads.

Lastly, look into this seat cover replacement for the driver's lower. Another free option could be to swap driver and passenger cushion covers since the passenger side likely has no wear in that spot.

 

[Mute916]

Give Treaty Oak Offroad a call or email to discuss your plans. They're super knowledgeable with Dobinsons suspension. You can also wait for an Ironman 4x4 suspension sale to roll around for a full lift kit. At 2.5"+, you will need new upper control arms to correct the caster when getting it all aligned again. If you don't it will be out of spec and drive terribly on the highway. SPC, JBA, and Freedom 4x4 are some popular options.

I am lifted about 3" without a diff drop kit. So far, so good lol. I decided to go without one since the ribs of my CVs are not rubbing or touching each other due to any extreme angles when daily driving. I have about 15k miles with my current setup, and 45k miles on a more modest 2" lift without any CV issues.

Since the back is air sprung, tricking the springs to over inflate/lift that much will probably cause them to fail fairly quickly. Your best bet is to ditch the rear air completely and convert to traditional coils. You will need a coil conversion kit that includes upper and lower isolators. There are a few options out there, so shop around and check reviews.

Probably not if your goal is more overlanding type off roading. If you do go mid-long travel, plan on spending at least 2x more on your suspension.

Rear brake lines should be extended. And don't forget about the high caster upper control arms I mentioned above.

Ironman and ARB probably stick out the most (or appear to at least) due to the boxy/flat top shape and crash compliant crumple zones built into the bumper mount. There are many fab shops out there that have whatever style you can think of. The lowest profile once I can think of that offer the most clearance are either 4x4 Labs or Coastal Offroad if you can weld the kit together. There are maybe a dozen or so other options out there for you to choose from.

This will rule out any half bumpers like Dissent or RRW, as well as a few hybrid/tube styles like Lil B's. Victory 4x4 just came out with the Strike bumper that can be optioned with hoops and I think it looks pretty good.

Strike rear to match. But just like the front, there are a lot of options to go with in the back. Shop around for one with the features and look you want.

Here's an outdated list, but it is somewhere to start at least.

People wheel them hard with no issues. Other people say it will turn your truck into a death trap. They are fine as long as you install them properly, but they are just another possible point of failure.

I vote get rid of the stock chrome asap lol. +24mm offset really pulls them into the wheel well. I went with 17" diameter 8.5" wide -12mm offset wheels on 285/75r17s and am very pleased with the look. Stock wheel is 17x7.5 +24mm for reference.

Potential injury or death if they are not torqued properly. Premature wheel bearing failure due to increased leverage on the hub (lower offset wheels will apply the same force as spacers)

285/70r17 is just under 33" and can vary slightly by load rating and tire manufacturer. 285/75r17 is as close as you will get to 34. Even the BFG KO2s in 34x10.5 are only like 33.5 inches tall.

You will also have to flatten the pinch weld, remove the running board plastic, push the front of the fender liner forward (will probably be far out of the way if you get a bumper anyway), body mount chop, and extended bump stops. So yes it can be done, but it takes a decent amount of work. A few folks run Kenda Klever R/Ts in 35x10.5r17 and seem to like them a lot.

So a $6k mod budget should get you wheels and tires ($1.1-2k+), suspension ($1.5k+), and bumpers ($1.2-3k+). I'd start with a vehicle baseline first though. Replace all fluids and get it running as well as you can. Fix anything that is broken, and use that opportunity to upgrade parts if you can. Then go lift and tires, saving armor for last. And don't forget about upgrading skid plates and ditching the running boards for real sliders if you plan on doing anything more than fire service roads.

Lastly, look into this seat cover replacement for the driver's lower. Another free option could be to swap driver and passenger cushion covers since the passenger side likely has no wear in that spot.

OMG this is an amazing write up and answers pretty much all my questions. You my friend are a saint! Thank you so much for this.

I will be definitely doing basics first and changing all fluids and fixing broken items.

Thank you so much for taking the time to write this. I am learning a lot and this gave me so much knowledge to get started.

Oh! I think you sold me on the Toyo AT3's after reading your post.

Scott

 

[HomersCanyonero]

You are missing rock sliders to protect the rocker panels. Sliders and skid plates are more important than the bumpers in my opinion. I’ve hit the rock sliders and skid plates more than once.

Also, it sounds like you are going to be running heavy and you need to get the right coil springs to match the weight you are adding. The coil spring will impact the ride and handling. Consider variable spring rates for the rear if you see yourself running light to heavy on occasions. Dobinson has some options on light, medium, and heavy loaded variable rate coil springs.


Finally, for heavy loads with all the armor and gear you plan to carry, make sure you get the E tires. They handle the heavy loads and the have stronger side walls.

 

[NJGX]

OMG this is an amazing write up and answers pretty much all my questions. You my friend are a saint! Thank you so much for this.

I will be definitely doing basics first and changing all fluids and fixing broken items.

Thank you so much for taking the time to write this. I am learning a lot and this gave me so much knowledge to get started.

Oh! I think you sold me on the Toyo AT3's after reading your post.

Scott

No problem man. We've all been in your spot, but there are a lot more options for everything nowadays to learn about; it can be a little overwhelming at first. If you have FB, join the GXOR group. And even if you don't have an account, you can still view posts for inspiration since it is all public.