h55f counter shaft axial play

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Apr 8, 2013
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hey i have my transfer apart rebuilding it and noticed on my gearbox that there is quite abit of axial play (in and out) only on the counter shaft

there dosnt seem to be any side to side radial play in either shafts

so i was wandering if anyone knew if it normal for the counter shaft to have this amount of play its enough to see the gears move back and forth guessing i would say 1- 1.5mm play

does anyone know the minimum amount of play? my workshop manual does not state it also can it be adjusted by anymeans as i dont realy have the time to do a gearbox rebuild

Thanks!
 
That is too much end play and is one of the causes of fifth jumping out of gear.
You will have to replace the counter shaft front bearing and fit the thickest snap ring (there are 3 sizes) to the shaft.
 
ok thanks il give it a go i was hoping i could use a different thickness snap ring
 
Fitzmooney do you have the part numbers for the three different sizes of snap ring and are these a Toyota stock part.
 
If your G/box is already out of the truck, then you can check on these things via the front bearing retainer.
Change the circlip to the thickest that will still fit and close properly, but then there is still the bearing axial play which can be quite a bit. Mine was on the limit with a nice snug circlip and the only way to correct it would be to personally select you bearing from dealer stock (Yeah, right) or to grind the bearing inner just a bit. Also with its own problems.
If you are very careful, you could replace the front layshaft bearing without pulling the box apart but you may need to make some of your own tools for this.

Thrust problems on this shaft can't be too much of an issue, because it's not very well controlled and still works well enough as the reliability of these boxes is legendary
 
hi thanks for your help guys

so i took the front bearing cover of today to check the bearings and before i took it of i pullued on the output shaft and it had axial play then i could see the whole bearing move in and out

so i took of the cover the the output and counter shaft bearings all move with the shaft but the rear of the output shaft dosnt seem to move only the front piece of the output does.

How can a bearing move if there supposed to be a press fit?

i have made a video and will upload once it get it on the computer

Thanks!
 
ok that sounds good

any idea why they spin they seem to be a fairly tight press

also how did you knurl the surface?

Thanks!
 
It does not look too bad actually. Remember that the front bearing retainer keep the bearings in place.
Measure everything with this torqued up to the correct speck.

The sideways movement of the front main shaft is always alarming, but remember it is only properly supported when centred in the flywheel spigot bearing (which you may want to replace anyway, cheap insurance).

No bearings should not spin in the housing, but a lot of them do. If you are sure that they have not seized at some stage, then let it ride and make a note to do a complete overhaul at a more convenient time.
They are simple boxes to work on, especially if you have the ability to make your own tools and don't mind bending and grinding your puller bits. BUT, simple as they are, they manage to munch their way into your wallet at an alarming rate if you do a rebuild, as most of the parts are "Toyota only".

Do not use the rear bearing retainer to seat the new bearings if you do overhaul. Tap them in with a punch or other homemade tool. Don’t ask me how I know this.

G
 
The snap ring p/n is 90520-30218. there are 3 of them.
They are marked 0,2,4. The thickest is 4.
You have to check your end play with the front retainer in place, and the gasket fitted.
 
ok so the bearings are not a press fit and should have a little movement even with the retaining cover on?

i will try source these snap rings and see if i can get rid of most of the play in the counter shaft

the front output shaft has play even with the retaining plate on but its the bearing moving in and out slightly is this normal?

Thanks!
 
Yes, that's the bearing movement I talked about. It is a roller bearing with removable inner race and thrust washer. if you remove the inner race and hold the thrust washer against it, the gap should be just a bit wider than the width of the rollers. trouble is its a fair bit wider, and this is the float you can feel. You could table grind the inner race a bit, but then it pulls away from the circlip grove, which you could shim, but it's going to be a pain. And like others, I can't find exactly what the speck should be but less than 1mm I am sure. with a new bearing and circlip you should be OK
 
ok i am thinking to just rebuild the whole box with new bearings and seals

i hope it fixes my backlash issue

I should be okay with the factory snap rings if i put in new bearings right?

thanks!
 
Another trick is to leave out the retainer gasket.
But first check the clearance between the retainer and the gearbox front face.
If it is zero or a couple of thou, you can leave the gasket out.
If all else fails you will have to replace the front counter shaft bearing, as it is worn on the thrust surface and rollers. Take it in to your local bearing shop and they should have a replacement.
Don't worry about the input shaft end play as it is not critical, unless there has been a problem engaging 4th gear.
 
ok thanks

gearbox shifts flawlessly it just kept dropping out of fifth

il take the front bearings out and see if i can get new ones or il get the whole kit for $250
 
I would just do the front and see if it improves the float. If not, do the kit. But measure first, sometimes a little float looks like a lot. Make a stand or drill a hole in a bench to get the box to stand verticially, that way you won't stress the back bearing when the front is removed.
 
Hi guys,
in the middle of rebuilding my H55F here and when fitting the new layshaft or countershaft with new bearings I was puzzled by the large amount of end play - it´s in the front bearing. I roughly measured it up using feeler gauges and the rail of the verniers and its about 10 to 11 thou or 0.26 to 0.28 mm. It looks a lot but is actually not that much. A thicker clip would only help if the old one was loose. In my case the thickest clip would not fit. Hope that this helps others who are facing the same worries. I´m still thinking that that play is a bit too much. Have rebuild gearboxes where the layshaft sits in tapered roller bearings - a bit to more to adjust but I like the fact that they are actually without endfloat at all. But....as said before these boxes are quite reliable and so that endfloat doesn´t worry me to much. If it´s realy 1-1.5 mm its probably to worry about.
Cheers !
 

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