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Thanks for the corrected pic.
You are exactly right on... with the center hub to bottom of flare being the same front & rear (ie "Level Stance") the rig will have a natural stinkbug to it oF 2". This is why I am a level stance guy. To get that with OME one has to have a coil 1" taller in front like a 850J/863 or a 850/860 or add a 30mm spacer in front.

Bla, bla, bla....o_O
 
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I did that same thing years ago - the body is designed with a visual rake so when loaded it looks level.

I still have no clue why 80 series suspensions are designed to kick up the rear, because the natural rake in the body gets ridiculously accentuated and it looks stoopid.

Level.

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Straighten out the pic and look at the body lines.
 
Still a huge fan of the y-link up front with coils. Extremely well balanced, relatively simple, still has great road manners without a sway bay. On a full bodied 80 I feel it's a great compromise. Uses every inch of my 12" stroke fox's, to the point that I almost wish I bought 14's.

No build thread yet, but I'll still happily answer any questions you may have. I was in full thrash mode when I built it and didn't document squat.

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@joez what's up?
I'm the one that wants to see your build because I want to build mine like yours... the Ylink is very close to a SE arm. I drew a quick & dirty overlay. I want to use a bolt on bracket like the SE arm bracket. It might work it might not.
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I would like to avoid a tie rod up front but willing to if all other attempts have been exhausted.
 
I'm tired of tightening up this driver side front bearing once a month, I picked up some TG units... we will see how these work out? Those alen bolts are real small.
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Still a huge fan of the y-link up front with coils. Extremely well balanced, relatively simple, still has great road manners without a sway bay. On a full bodied 80 I feel it's a great compromise. Uses every inch of my 12" stroke fox's, to the point that I almost wish I bought 14's.

No build thread yet, but I'll still happily answer any questions you may have. I was in full thrash mode when I built it and didn't document squat.

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Yea dude lets see it!

I'm getting ready to do the poor mans 3-link on my chopped 80 when I find an extra control arm. Took the front bolt out of the DS arm the other day and drove around. Being light and chopped it has much less body movement than my 2" lifted full bodied 80.

I've always thought using a rubicon express jeep radius arm on one side might take some of the bind out of the 80 front.
 
Still a huge fan of the y-link up front with coils. Extremely well balanced, relatively simple, still has great road manners without a sway bay. On a full bodied 80 I feel it's a great compromise. Uses every inch of my 12" stroke fox's, to the point that I almost wish I bought 14's.

No build thread yet, but I'll still happily answer any questions you may have. I was in full thrash mode when I built it and didn't document squat.

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Iceman!!!! That's quite the obstacle with an 80.
 
40s on a 850+25mm/860 lift is so sweet. I have more lift then this red 80. Here is a teaser, but @joez does need a build thread. Maybe if enough want to see he might do it. He should call it Y-link and 40"s. @jodo built a Ylink years ago also.
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I'm tired of tightening up this driver side front bearing once a month, I picked up some TG units... we will see how these work out? Those alen bolts are real small.
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I just bought a set as well. I need to rebuild the PS (I tend to alternate because both will bleed into a two day project and there's never the time) and hope they keep things tighter. Let us know what you think as you use them....
 
I got the new rear coils in...
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After church I took the kids out for a quick spin in our local creek bed to test out the new Slinky coils loaded up with some extra weight. Start at 3 minutes.
 
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Gary, the rear springs don't look too much longer than the ones you already have! Should have saved your money!
 
I know you John... your just giving me a jab.
The free height is same as your rear 5" Comps. The Slinky coils are sitting almost 3" more in lift over what I had. That's to much.
I have a stinkbug rig again... I hoping they will settle down a bit.
Currently sitting at 4.25" lift in front 4.75" rear including the 1" body lift.
 
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looks like you are having a lot of fun with the added speed!...now just try that about 25-30mph faster and you'll get a rush!
 
looks like the line at the tires is also low in the rear (line is on the front tire bottom edge). Are you able to rotate your grid so that the line is flat under the tires?

My question really is that the first step when using a level is to have a level surface. The parking lot must be level for any use of a level on the rig to matter.
 
looks like you are having a lot of fun with the added speed!...now just try that about 25-30mph faster and you'll get a rush!
I'll take it out of low next time I make a run through there just for you...
looks like the line at the tires is also low in the rear (line is on the front tire bottom edge). Are you able to rotate your grid so that the line is flat under the tires?

My question really is that the first step when using a level is to have a level surface. The parking lot must be level for any use of a level on the rig to matter.
I'll check it next time I go there... the main thing I was trying to get across was the body line has a natural stinkbug rake to it & there is no need to have the rear lifted higher for extra load. Bla, bla, bla... this is even getting to anal for me.
I dig your "Foo" rig... how much does it weigh?
 
I'll take it out of low next time I make a run through there just for you...

I'll check it next time I go there... the main thing I was trying to get across was the body line has a natural stinkbug rake to it & there is no need to have the rear lifted higher for extra load. Bla, bla, bla... this is even getting to anal for me.
I dig your "Foo" rig... how much does it weigh?

Yeah, I see your point, and wonder if you are correct about the natural stinkbug look. I guess in the end what matters is how our eye perceives it to be, regardless if there is a natural rake or not. As Frenando says, it is how you look, not how you feel.

Thanks for your kind words on Foo. Been a bunch of family fun. Headed out to Flat Nasty Park in mid Missouri later this week for our club event.

I have never weighed it. I have a huge jobbox that I keep in the rear with spare birfs and whatever any 80 needs to be trail repaired, so not sure if I will win any diet competition.
 
Yeah, I see your point, and wonder if you are correct about the natural stinkbug look. I guess in the end what matters is how our eye perceives it to be, regardless if there is a natural rake or not. As Frenando says, it is how you look, not how you feel.
I suppose I may be in a minority but I prefer a bit of rake. I don't mind the look when the trucks unloaded and it levels out when the truck is full.
Here's my slinkys with a mostly empty load.


looks like you are having a lot of fun with the added speed!...now just try that about 25-30mph faster and you'll get a rush!
Agreed. I've found that with the Slinky/Icon stuff the faster you go the smoother it gets. Justin says the same thing about it on his FJUte.
 
Gary, Isn't it advertised that you can cut the coils to fine tune your lift? I remember reading that somewhere.
 
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