Got a fun one - the door chime?

[soberman001]

So.. my 2004 LC has developed a periodic problem. When the inigition key is removed for short or long periods of time, and the lights are OFF, the drivers door chime still goes off like there is a key in the ignition or the lights are one. Symptoms:

1. Door chimes with no key
2. Door chimes with lights fully off (not just on auto)
3. Will all door shut, the "door/hatch" indicator light stays on
4. Problem has occurred twice, and gone away both times (with nor particular explanation.)

Thoughts?

 

[rusty_tlc]

Hose the door switch out with contact cleaner.

 

[Travis351]

I remember pulling out the noisemaker on my old heeps. Anyone done that to a hundy?

 

[soberman001]

Hose the door switch out with contact cleaner.

Sounds easy enough. But, even the auto-steering collumn adjustment kicks in moving the wheel to the same position as if the key was in there. I think the root of the issue starts with the inition key switch/slot. Thoughts?

 

[UltraFJ40]

I think you're right on Soberman. I'd try to find the best lubricant for the ignition switch and apply it lightly and also to the key. Place and remove the key several times and see if that helps.

Sorry, I don't know the technical locksmithing terms, but it sounds as if one or more of the pins are staying in the up or down (two sided key) position therefore tricking the ECU.

I'm not much of a by the book kind of guy and have used a variety of lubricants in my door lock tumblers to get the to accept the keys easier. On my 80 series, I must have used the same key for way too long. When I went to manually open the door with key # 2 it almost wouldn't open it. Hence the spray lube. Worked fine after that!

 

[rusty_tlc]

Sounds easy enough. But, even the auto-steering collumn adjustment kicks in moving the wheel to the same position as if the key was in there. I think the root of the issue starts with the inition key switch/slot. Thoughts?

I was looking at item #3, you may have more than one issue.
For the other issues I'd start with the connector where the column wiring goes into the main loom. Take it apart and blow it out, then re-seat it. From there I'd start moving up stream toward the key switch connector. You could start at the key switch and work the other way but I assume the other end is easier to access. I always go for the low fruit first.

 

[soberman001]

Aside from the seating of the connector at the base, what I am I looking for?

 

[rusty_tlc]

Aside from the seating of the connector at the base, what I am I looking for?

My guess is a bad contact inside the switch, but you should re-seat the connectors first to confirm they aren't the problem. Sometimes just taking them apart and re-connecting them will clean the contacts enough for them to work again.

 

[1loudLX]

theres a little pin as you insert the key that triggers a switch to tilt the wheel and create that god awful annoying chime. Some techs disconnect that little switch when working on a vehicle for a prolonged time. There is a plug on the outside of the cylinder with two wires once you take off the plastic paneling to access it.

I believe that might be your problem, in addition to a faulty door switch, because even if you put a ice cream stick into the ignition and push that pin it will cause the vehicle to believe there is a key in the cylinder.

 

[soberman001]

Do you have a layman's description on how to disconnect it? I am thinking about lubricating it as a first try, but I am not agaist disconnecting it since I can remember my own keys and I normally have the lights on auto.