I'm new on the page, and i read past threads about diff locks on 100s. What is the good, bad (or other) of installing front diff lock on a 2000 100 but leaving the rear LSD as it is? Or sm i silly for even asking?
Good/bad of having a front diff lock w/rear LSD?
- Thread starter pequiod
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I run that combination on my old turbocharged toyota pickup truck and very satisfied with it. My ideal setup would be some kind of lockable LSD in the rear and manual locker up front. Having LSD would be pretty useful for even street driving. Manual locker are only good off road/not really useful on road.
Lock the rear instead. 2 reasons:
1. You have a 2000 model with ActiveTrac. The ActiveTrac and rear locker combo works wonders.
2. Not good running the front locked and an unlocked rear. The front diffs on the 100's (and 80's) are weak. Rely on a locked rear. Your ActiveTrac will then aid the front by moving power to the front wheel where it's useful while also allowing full turning capability.
1. You have a 2000 model with ActiveTrac. The ActiveTrac and rear locker combo works wonders.
2. Not good running the front locked and an unlocked rear. The front diffs on the 100's (and 80's) are weak. Rely on a locked rear. Your ActiveTrac will then aid the front by moving power to the front wheel where it's useful while also allowing full turning capability.
No. That would defeat it's whole purpose. Only the Active Skid Control shuts off when the center is locked.
What about a Torsen or other traction diff for the front of a 98-99 100 series? I emailed torsen to see if they had one that would fit, but never heard back from them. Man-a-fre said that an ARB could be installed on the front, but I didn't know if that would make sense with a electronic rear locker.
ARB is the way to go. The compressor and locker switch(es) mount nicely into the dash left of the steering wheel. They light up and look good.
Don't bother with a Torsen or other diff type for the front (though I don't think anybody but ARB makes them?). Your 2000 moves the power to the proper wheel by itself via ActiveTrac. That front diff needs to be open for the system to work.
Was just doing that 30-min ago. Climbing a very loose dirt hill with the rear locker ON and in spots the traction control was clawing for traction on the front. A few times it wasn't until the front trac control kicked in and helped that I kept climbing. Very loose hill from recent rains. Front wheel lifts were HUGE!
Don't bother with a Torsen or other diff type for the front (though I don't think anybody but ARB makes them?). Your 2000 moves the power to the proper wheel by itself via ActiveTrac. That front diff needs to be open for the system to work.
Was just doing that 30-min ago. Climbing a very loose dirt hill with the rear locker ON and in spots the traction control was clawing for traction on the front. A few times it wasn't until the front trac control kicked in and helped that I kept climbing. Very loose hill from recent rains. Front wheel lifts were HUGE!
