Builds Goat. A 1967 survivor FJ-45 LWB (6 Viewers)

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I have been having fuse box problems and got a new box from @Racer65 to just replace it.

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Seems fairly easy until the top, shortest wires in the hardest spot would not come free.

Has to snip and reach way in to strip the wires and fix.

The later box works. You get a 63rd constant 12v fuse location and it’s 180* off on the cover diagram.

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The Power wires come in on driver side instead of passenger.

No biggie but the cover is upside down.

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Took the Goat to retrieve some herd management deer this afternoon.

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Got into this bowl and almost didn’t get out. Much muddier than I thought

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Chef Lou put a 300 blackout into this mature doe

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This young man sat alone and got his first deer tonight

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Put up wet but happy.
 
First deer. Always the proudest. Reminds me of my first deer. Congratulations. A memory for a lifetime.
 
We put the hard top back on my friends truck today. Used the Goat to haul all the parts to my heated shop. It’s super cold today

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Then we got the call to go help load up a deer on the farm.

Got to go get a big old buck in the Goat today. It was super muddy and it was sure footed on the sidehills

This guy dressed out at 180# and was an old guy. Lots of mass.

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The last tank repair that I did started leaking again.

I grabbed a spare early 70s tank I had here and it did not fit properly.

This tank from my LPB is shaped different

Sooooooo, it out and I’m going to let it air out. Flush it with some water and take it to my friend at ShawFab to have the seams welded or soldered. Whatever he thinks is the best. He’s the metal guru.

@nvrlose54 will make it right.

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This might be a little late for you to try but I have had good luck with this.. A baffle spot weld broke on the bottom of my tank, i cleaned and patched it with this. So far so good.
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This might be a little late for you to try but I have had good luck with this.. A baffle spot weld broke on the bottom of my tank, i cleaned and patched it with this. So far so good.View attachment 1853665

That’s essentially what I used. It seemed like it set up but just now as I scraped it off it was gooey below the surface in the spots that re-leaked.


I’m just going to get it done right this time (3rd removal)
 
You want it sealed from the inside
With something like the Caswell’s tank sealer, otherwise it’s filling up the seams, looking for the next weak link. It’ll keep the inside from rusting any further and add some integrity to it.
 
My wagons tank started leaking every where, even after trying all the above remedies in a tube. I took it to a local radiator and tank repair place. They soldered or brazed all the seams and spot welds. So far, so good.
 
I have had the same leaking issues with all of my 45’s. It’s very hard to solder because all the old “soft solder” needs to come out with my experiences anyway. Toyota used this old soft solder and it doesn’t mix at all with the new solder of today.

I’ve sealed all my tanks with the interior liners that others have spoke of. Any good radiator shop can clean, dry, acid etch and seal the tank with ease. This has been my go to, no problems at all. Just my thoughts....
 
Superb...
 
Superb...

He sneered at the idea of resoldering.

As for the local radiator shops. I looked into that for my Fj55 and I got no good feedback on the locals. Many reports of the coatings going bad and high prices.
 

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