FZJ80 pulls to the passenger side under braking

[Montana Cruiser]

I am wondering what are the potential reasons my truck would be pulling to the passenger side while braking? I have also noticed alot more brake dust collecting on the passenger side front wheel, figuring this maybe tied into that. This has just started and I would like to catch it before I wear out my pads too fast. Can you guys give me suggestions on what/how to check first? It does'nt feel like the caliper is hanging up when not engaged? Any hints would be greatly appreciated.

On a side note, is the search function on the new forum different? It does "seem" to work better, but most all I could find about brakes in 80's tech about brakes was upgrade info and something about the proportioning valve, which didnt sound like it could cause my problem.

 

[Klunky Chris]

my guess is that you have a sticking/frozen caliper. Maybe the front left as you say the front right (pass side) seems to be working harder (more brake dust). Also if the front right caliper was braking harder it would pull to the right .

If this is the case, you'll need to pull the caliper and rebuild it. Better to do both front at the same time as the DS caliper is probably not to far behind.

it *could* be the rear calipers also. My rear caliper was frozen and caused my 80 to pull to one side when braking.

 

[Safado]

Jack up the whole front end...spin the tires and see if they stop when the brake is applied...may need 2 people. You may want to check the same thing in the rear for what Chris had to say. This way at least you know which caliper, if any, are stuck.

 

[robbie]

even though you have ABS and this should not happen it is. Some of the causes are the sticking Piston in the calipers, loose wheel bearing, Magnetic shaving interfering with the abs sensor, air in the caliper. Best guess with out seeing is the sticing calipers becasue of the extra dust on that side. If you have more wear on one of the set of pad (one side is thicker than the other) or taper from top to bottom, then you have some sticking pistons. Time to rebuild the calipers, better to do both at the same time. later robbie

 

[Beowulf]

Robbie,
We bounced this around a good bit a few weeks ago and the concensus was rebuilding was a PITA and it was better to replace.

Do you replace the calipers on customer trucks or rebuild them?

When you rebuild the calipers, are there any tricks and tips you can share with us?

-B-

 

[Junk]

B,
I just rebuilt the fronts I took off. I don't know what all the whining was about, it did not take long at all and was quite easy. Of course, having the right tools is another story.

 

[Klunky Chris]

you know, honestly, I haven't rebuilt a front caliper...
I rebuilt 1 rear, and had to scrap the other (the guide pin was SERIOUSLY jammed )
The one I didn't scrap was a piece of cake. Hit it with a hone a bit until it's smooth, and put the new seals in. I replaced the piston also.

What is the PITA of the fronts? I mean... if Junk can do it......

Seriously though, I plan on rebuilding them in the future as a PM, so I'd like to know what the problems are.

I can see that if you need to start replacing pistons on a 4 piston caliper that it could get expensive quick!

 

[IdahoDoug]

Rebuild on the fronts was cake and cost me something like $22 for Toyota's rebuild kit for BOTH fronts. I posted it here - search.

DougM

 

[lovetoski]

Caliper rebuild instructions

Did the search, and found this previous info from IdahoDoug...(looks easy - my 80 pulls, and I'm going to do this real soon...and I've got air...)

"I don't want to keep adding more work for you guys, but frankly "rebuilding" the calipers is a laughably easy thing to do. Especially if you have air. Or you can simply pull them off the brake lines and bring them to a shop and ask them to blow the pistons out for you.

Once the pistons are out, you merely clean the caliper up physically (clean where old seals mate, etc), then clean the pistons themselves - possibly needing a light scrubbing if you have faint rust marks using scotchbrite pad. Then, you use the supplied grease (comes with Toyota rebuild kit), install the O rings and seals, then slid the pistons back in. Reconnect the lines. When you're done with the axles, you will then bleed the system, which is a good idea as mentioned earlier. It is not rocket science, and I spent 50% of my time doing it just getting the pistons out (I don't have air, so it was a Rube Goldburg system of wood blocks and my wife pushing on the brakes. Worked miserably, frankly - so take them to a shop).

CDan can get you the Toyota kit I used, which does BOTH front calipers for something south of $30. Is that right Dan? Anyhow, "rebuilding" makes it sound more complex than the simple cleanup and removal/installation of 8 rubber seals per caliper that comprises a brake rebuild...."

Doug Graham

 

[robbie]

I have not replace a caliper yet for customers. I rebuild, 2.5 -3 hrs to take off, rebuild and bleed the system. I do not use air to remove the piston any more after making a huge mess one day and on having one piston come out. I use two pry bars and have not had any problems getting the piston out. I have not had any calipers not rebuildable(no pitting on the piston). I never split the caliper, no seal for this any way. I use brakeleen to clean with, scotch brite pad to sand(could not think of another term) with. It really is not that tough if you done it once or in my case lots. The first time would be a real learning lesson. When chrito gets back (two weeks) I will try to get some pic's on the web site and a write up. later robbie