Fuel Return and Dual Fuel Tanks

[D'Animal]

I have two 22gal Con Ferr Tanks on my rig and in the process of laying out the plumbing.

For those of you running dual tanks and have a fuel injection system or a fuel system with a return line. How do you connect the return line?

Does your return line constantly fill the same tank or do you have a solenoid that diverts it to the tank you are drawing from?

It would be easy enough to connect it to one tank and then just pump it to the other tank when it is full. Not ideal, but the easiest.


Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

[D'Animal]

Anybody?

 

[Bogo]

I have a tractor with dual tanks. The return only goes to the original tank. It is a pain in the ass because it will overflow it if you don't watch it carefully. I made one mod to the system and made it so I normally draw from both tanks and return to the original tank. This works as the tank with the higher level gets more sucked out of it.

My modification was to swap the tank selector valve for a t fitting and a shutoff valve. I can shutoff the aux tank and just run on the original or open it and draw from both.

 

[Poser]

I have two 22gal Con Ferr Tanks on my rig and in the process of laying out the plumbing.

For those of you running dual tanks and have a fuel injection system or a fuel system with a return line. How do you connect the return line?

Does your return line constantly fill the same tank or do you have a solenoid that diverts it to the tank you are drawing from?

It would be easy enough to connect it to one tank and then just pump it to the other tank when it is full. Not ideal, but the easiest.


Any suggestions are appreciated.

Dan,

It would be easy enough to have an electrical controlled switching valve for the return line so that when you select the first tank, that the return feeds that tank, and when you switch to the second tank, the return runs to that one.

 

[toyotakurtis]

I thought about doing the same thing and just have the return line feed the main tank, but knew I would forget and end up over filling the main tank. I went to my local O'Reilly Auto parts and starting running the shelfs. I came across a fuel valve that is made for fuel injected engines with a pump in the tank and return lines. O'Reily item number FSV2A, I paid $78.99 and it has a life time warranty.

I have not installed the aux tank yet but I plan to use a tank out of a 1985 Toyota Cressida fuel injected. I would think that fuel pump puts out about the same pressure as my stock fuel pump. The fuel valve FSV2A is only rated at 65 PSI. I think my pump puts out about 27 to 38 PSI? I need to check my FSM. Hope this helps.

 

[D'Animal]

I'm going forward with the Cummins 4BTA and the twin tanks. I'm not sure what the pressure is in my system after the Injector pump. It basically feeds the injectors and then returns the unused fuel to the tank.

I will check into the O'Reilly's system and see if it is diesel compatible.

 

[toyotakurtis]

I just found the fuel selector on Amazon for $49.95 plus shipping. Looking that the directions is says for gas and diesel fuels.

Good luck, I am interested to see how well your duel tank setup works for you.

 

[D'Animal]

Here are some responses I recieved from a diesel site.



Pollak makes a tank selector valve for a return style setup, several people I know that run Greasle use one.

I don't recall the part #, but IIRC it's out of a late '80s - early '90s Ford diesel. (not sure on that though)

Of course that assumes you actually want to return all the way to the tank (I've seen several that don't).

If you decide not to run the return fuel all the way back to the tank, then you could plumb the return back in between the lift pump and the selector valve, I'm kinda partial to tank return, but that's me.
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Tank Selector Valve, that is what it is called.

Thanks

My though is to run two of them wired together. One for the tank selection and the other one for the selected tank return. Poser from a different site recommended this and was my first plan.


If you decide not to run the return fuel all the way back to the tank, then you could plumb the return back in between the lift pump and the selector valve, I'm kinda partial to tank return, but that's me.

I thought if you "T" plumbed it between the tank lift pump that it would be dang near impossible to prime if you ran out of fuel. Am I wrong?
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This is what I'm planning on doing to The Beast.

Option 1.
Go to pick-a-part or similar and get another set of wiring and cap for the valve. Then buy two new valves and run the to engine valve as stock and the return opposite. That way your return fuel runs to the tank you are taking it out of. This is the easiest way for me to wire everything up.

Option 2.
The other way is to use a valve from mid 80's to mid 90's ford truck. That valve has feed and return built into one unit. If I was to pull this part, I would need the wiring to splice into my truck

If I wanted a theft/off position, I would run another valve on the feed line close to the engine that would just have an off and on position.

Let us, or me know what you did and how it worked.

I'm hoping in July or August to get my dual tanks running like they should.

Any ideas how to run the return line to a non return tank?? Right now I have the return line tee'd into the overflow filler spout.
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Fiddleback


#5 06-17-2009, 12:24 PM
gallf1
Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Boulder,CO
Posts: 37

Six-port valve

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Hey:
In my 4bt powered Land Rover with dual tanks, I used a Groco all bronze, manual six-port fuel valve. I run it for: rear tank, side tank and off. It has 3/8" id fuel supply ports and 5/16" id fuel return ports.

Its a bit pricey (found mine for $125) but all bronze, manual and no worries on being in the middle of a trip and an electrical component failing.

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.co...UEL_VALVE.html


#6 06-17-2009, 12:37 PM
Paul(in NY)
Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 672



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I use (2) weatherhead 3 positioin selector valves from NAPA. One valve selects which tank I will draw from, the other selects which thank gets the return. All manual, dont want any electric valves to fail me.

Paul
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#7 06-17-2009, 12:40 PM
D'Animal
Member Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Central California
Posts: 207



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Thanks

Is it really 6" x 6" x 4"?




Quote:
Originally Posted by gallf1
Hey:
Its a bit pricey (found mine for $125) but all bronze, manual and no worries on being in the middle of a trip and an electrical component failing.

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.co...UEL_VALVE.html


Stupid questions

Where did you mount it?
What did you do for a gauge? 3 postion toggle switch?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by gallf1
Hey:
In my 4bt powered Land Rover with dual tanks, I used a Groco all bronze, manual six-port fuel valve. I run it for: rear tank, side tank and off. It has 3/8" id fuel supply ports and 5/16" id fuel return ports.

Its a bit pricey (found mine for $125) but all bronze, manual and no worries on being in the middle of a trip and an electrical component failing.

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.co...UEL_VALVE.html

Here's one for $120 and shipping: FUEL VALVE 6 PORT GRO FV65038

It has 1/2 inch NPT for Main Line and 3/8 inch NPT for Return Line more info here http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ct.do?pid=8991

Same company also makes some nice 90 degree fuel shutoff valves great for a tank in a tight spot: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ow+Fuel+Valves

Wish I had found both of those before I plumbed my truck.. I looked and looked for a 6 way valve to accommodate 1/2" suction and 3/8" return lines.

Grigg

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What about the tank switching valve off a 73-87 carbureted cheby pickup, they should be easy to find and simple to hook up. I would think they can stand up to diesel, as far as I know dual tanks was an option on the anemic 5.7l olds diesel. There were quite a few of those in those years.


MrMechanic Man
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On the Fords there were different types of selector valve, single wire no return type and the six port IIRC the six ports were available in motorized and non motorized.. The single wire is much cheaper than the six ports, and the is a pretty big difference in the price of the two six ports.

No matter what valve you choose, you definately want to consider fuel supply volume for the Cummins diesel engines. Fuel cools the injection pump, so keep it in mind. Poor fuel supply can result in performance issues or much worse. The gasoline selector valves are a no brainer first thought and are cheap compared to some of these that were linked to. But the price of an injection pump is waaay more than an expensive selector valve. I like the big line attachments of those in the links. And I expect there to be some folks saying they have had no problems with what was on their rig oem valves etc. That may be fine for some but I would not go cheap with volume supply in the fuel delivery system. Just my .02 cents...

sdstriper
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So is 3/8 feed line optimum or overkill for a 4BT?


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Quote:
Originally Posted by D'Animal
I thought if you "T" plumbed it between the tank lift pump that it would be dang near impossible to prime if you ran out of fuel. Am I wrong?

Not impossible, but certainly a bigger PITA (beter have a wrench with as pliers don't make it) hence my preference not to do it that way.
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Erik

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From my research, the gas and diesel 90 era trucks had the same valve.
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Fiddleback

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80-91 chevy trucks use the pollack 6port. all my 6.2 trucks had them. they also switch the sending unit wires so you can read whatever tank you're on.
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K204DR

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Quote:
Originally Posted by D'Animal
Thanks

Is it really 6" x 6" x 4"?

Yeah, its big (and heavy) but bullet proof.




Stupid questions

Where did you mount it?

The Land Rover has a raised platfrom for the front seats. Under the passenger side seat this paltfrom has a vertical face that I drilled a hole in for the fuel valve stem. The valve is actually behind this platform (out of sight) and mounted to a custom bracket which is welded to the frame. The valve stem sticks thru the hole I drilled in the platform. From either the drivers side or the passengers side, its just a matter of reaching over to select the tank or turn off the fuel.

What did you do for a gauge? 3 postion toggle switch?

Thats the only thing I havent wired yet, right now the rear fuel tank only has a sender in it. The side tank is a Military type tank with no sender. So for right now, when the rear tank is approaching empty, I switch over to the side tank and keep track of how many miles I have driven. Eventually I plan on installing a sender in that tank.


gallf1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul(in NY)
I use (2) weatherhead 3 positioin selector valves from NAPA. One valve selects which tank I will draw from, the other selects which thank gets the return. All manual, dont want any electric valves to fail me.

Paul

I have used this method in the past and by far it is both the most economical & trouble free method for two tanks. It also let you transfer engine filtered fuel from one tank to the other by way of the return line. These are available for $12.50 from Saturn Surplus:

Saturn Surplus

I have also used the electric solenoid type transfer valves. Some of these require a momentary (non-maintained position) toggle switch to properly operate. The way to test is to see if you hear a slight buzzing sound after you switch tanks. If you do or you can measure any current flow to the coil after the switch is thrown you need a momentary switch. Using the incorrect type switch will result in solenoid valve burn out failure that folks on other various websites just can not seem to figure out and end up blaming the valve as being no good.
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[D'Animal]

Thanks

I took your advice and did exactly that.

Dan,

It would be easy enough to have an electrical controlled switching valve for the return line so that when you select the first tank, that the return feeds that tank, and when you switch to the second tank, the return runs to that one.

Here is what I used.

I went to my auto parts store and I picked up a Pollak 42-159P fuel tank selector valve/switch.

Has 3 - 3/8 nipples and 3 - 5/16" return nipples and is rated for 65 PSI. $46.64

42-203 Pig tail was extra $6.35
34-592 3 way Toggle was extra (on off on) $2.82
42-201 Face plate was extra $1.59


I used diesel approved rubber hose througout the entire plumbing job, all the way to the lift pump on the engine block and including the return line.