why the run flats?
and why did ya cut em down? it looks like where they bolt together is taller now than the rest.
and why did ya cut em down? it looks like where they bolt together is taller now than the rest.
FJ62 Bob it? or extend the WB?
- Thread starter 88chevota
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Kevin, you try bolting those same wheels to someone else's cruiser (edit: rig with similar axles) and see if they produce similar results? Or switch them one at a time front to back....
I'm inspired by tour work my man, keep it coming!
I'm inspired by tour work my man, keep it coming!
kling-on
Kool Arrow
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2003
- Threads
- 254
- Messages
- 5,502
- Location
- Pimpin part in SanAntonio TX
- Website
- www.texas4x4.org
- Thread starter
- #164
The run flats came with the wheels and that is what makes it the double bead lock. You cut them down because when you go wheeling you don't want the run flats to keep your tire up. You want your tire to be able to flex and wrap around the rocks!
- Thread starter
- #165
Thanks for the encouragement! sometimes it's frustrating when you get this far and you run into annoying problems like the dreaded death wobble!
I think I will try to balance them and add the steering stabilizer and see what happens. Ford has these weird brake calipers that are held in by wedges or something. I have some play when the brakes are applied and I wonder if that adds to what is going on.
Makes sense, guess i was thinking that they already allowed some flex from em but obviously not enough.
So where did you get the wheels from? and how much did you pay? got any pics of how they go together? Ive never messed with humvee wheels.
never mind i figured it out.
- Thread starter
- #168
death wobble be gone!!!
found the culprit!!! Ford axles (some apparently not all) have these wedges that hold the calipers in place. mine were worn out which was causing the calipers to slop around. replaced my pads and the wedges, also installed a steering stabilizer and it's all gone. hit 67 on the interstate and it rode smooth!!! even hitting bumps nothing!
found the culprit!!! Ford axles (some apparently not all) have these wedges that hold the calipers in place. mine were worn out which was causing the calipers to slop around. replaced my pads and the wedges, also installed a steering stabilizer and it's all gone. hit 67 on the interstate and it rode smooth!!! even hitting bumps nothing!
so.... lets see some flex pictures...
- Thread starter
- #170
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Threads
- 162
- Messages
- 4,044
- Location
- Hillsboro, OR
- Website
- www.cascadecruisers.com
looks good!!!!!!
rear fenders look nice!
LC_Hamma
The Anti-Leafer
99% of one's who buy the H1 double beadlocked wheels recenter them due to the negative offset. I recently recentered a set to 3.5". They are really a no-brainer when you get a set complete w/ the runflats. Make sure you oil the o-rings so they don't get snagged & leak out air. Also, tighten the outer piece of the wheel in a criss-cross pattern. The 1st set is the one's I just did, the 2nd pic is the set I run on the
They both show aftermarket rock rings. There are vendors on Pirate that sell them, some I've seen for sale in your area. Check the Pirate classifieds. Sorry for the hijack 
Just throwing this out there cuz your ride is looking good.
Here is how I did my H1's, you dont need rock rings but a 1/2" round piece welded on the outer edge. I got some flange bolts for the wheels and tacked all the nuts on the inside of the inner wheel. Now I have no studs hanging out to get bent and a stiffened ring. I got 50 bolts for $48 at mcmaster.
Here is how they came out
Here is how I did my H1's, you dont need rock rings but a 1/2" round piece welded on the outer edge. I got some flange bolts for the wheels and tacked all the nuts on the inside of the inner wheel. Now I have no studs hanging out to get bent and a stiffened ring. I got 50 bolts for $48 at mcmaster.
Here is how they came out
Yup, I want H1's.
- Thread starter
- #176
Thanks guys for the input on the h1's. To answer some of the questions. I picked the set of 5 up for $175. I was going for the budget build. I seriously thought about recentering them. It still might be something I redo later. for the meantime I put 2" wheel spacers on. I would only want to change the backspacing by 2", 2.5" at the most. So I would end up with a 5" or 4.5" backspacing. The backspacing issue was the main reason for not recentering yet. The pressed centers are much stronger but the backspacing would make my tires stick out way too far. I could go another .5" on each side and still have good width. I have full width tons on this so It could be really wide with the wrong back spacing. I want to make sure when it articulates the tires actually tuck in the fender not hit them and cut up the tires. I also kinda like the look of the h1's the way they are. Kinda makes it look like a military vehicle.
me_tu05 I love the flange bolt idea. I might go for that!
I might try it out on my spare and see how I like it.
me_tu05 I love the flange bolt idea. I might go for that!
I might try it out on my spare and see how I like it.
The combo looks really good on your cruiser. The 37s look bigger on your rig than mine for some reason... funny how that is. When I balanced my tires two took a lot of weight and two took minimal weight. Because of the double bead lock I didn't mine spending $ to get them balanced since they won't slip and screw up the balance when aired down. It definitely improved highway comfort and just about eliminated my minor DW (even though I've got play in the steering system).
If you get a chance to weigh one tire/rim combo I'd be interested to see how much weight mine gained with the new ring and center. Mine complete came out to 140lbs.
If you get a chance to weigh one tire/rim combo I'd be interested to see how much weight mine gained with the new ring and center. Mine complete came out to 140lbs.
- Thread starter
- #178
Thanks boots.
the 37's may look bigger because mine might not be as tall. I am at 22" to the bottom frame rail.
They are definitely heavy, not sure if they are 140 though. When I get a chance I'll weigh em.
the 37's may look bigger because mine might not be as tall. I am at 22" to the bottom frame rail.
They are definitely heavy, not sure if they are 140 though. When I get a chance I'll weigh em.
- Thread starter
- #179
Long overdue update
Hey guys,
Sorry it has taken forever to do an update. I have done some work on the rocks sliders and rear bumper. I worked on the front bumper tonight. I'll post some pics of the other stuff when I get those done. Here is the front though.
Hey guys,
Sorry it has taken forever to do an update. I have done some work on the rocks sliders and rear bumper. I worked on the front bumper tonight. I'll post some pics of the other stuff when I get those done. Here is the front though.
- Thread starter
- #180
more
few more photos
few more photos
