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Discussion in 'CO/WY- Horsetooth 4 Wheelers Cruiser Club' started by PabloCruise, Mar 18, 2006.
Finish up the PS pump mount, things line up well!
Next up is bolting things back together, and paying attention to detail here.
We were able to use the FJ60 high pressure line. It is not the most elegant, but it fit. Maybe I'll get a better fitting one in the future. For return line we went with all purpose hose. No cooler for now. We'll see how that works
I do not have pics of the drag link yet - I will soon.
We lined up the length of the drag link pretty closely by eye. We put the front wheels off the ground, filled the system w/ PS fluid (not ATF) and bled the system. Then I drove her a few blocks and centered the steering wheel on the column. Here are some pics of the project 90% done. Still need to finish a few details mentioned in my first post...
Last ones for now - I'll post more of the drag link and the air pump hoses next week.
Great write up TJ! Now you will be able to drive and change diapers at the same time!
Nice detailed process.
LOL - Oh yeah, I need to start getting used to that concept...
Hey TJ. Nice write-up!! Looks great! Whish I was done with mine.... Soon.
BTW, Congrats on impending fatherhood.
Why thank you sir!
Good luck on yours. I was thinking about you when I did this, because I don't think you have fixed your shock mounts yet, but then I remembered you have an early style firewall...
But don't worry about it - you can just wheel that F-I-N-E Pig of yours at Moab!
Very nice TJ. Looks real clean.
Update: Post Cruise-Moab '06
Well, I didn't get to wheel the 40 in Moab, but Kipper did, and the PS system did just fine! They wheeled Hells Revenge and Poison Spider
I wanted to try to get some sweet shots of the 60 PS being articulated, but since I wasn't there, my buddy O'Neil took the shot below.
After driving over to Moab, I think I need to check my caster and add a steering stabilizer. The steering is a little darty when I brake hard. I am guessing I do not have much caster and will need to add shims. I just hope the front flange won't get pointed down too far!
I'll post up the caster data ASAP.
PM headed your way TJ
Excellent detail on your write-up. I did the same thing on my 45 using Mark W's article in TT and his suggestion on the 55 u-joint. I've been happy with it. My wife prefers to drive the SOA 45 over the bonestock FJ55 JUST because of the steering. I'd add power steering to the 55, but want to keep the air pump too. I have a '73 F so my air pump isn't in the same spot. I do have a dual pulley...I just need to get creative like you did.
Steering clearance while articulating
I finally got some pics of the clearance betwen the steering linkage and the leaf springs while flexing:
And a couple more
I just realized these show the steering pretty well while being flexed:
After dealing with light steering and negative caster for a while I threw in some 4 degree shims...
I just got back from Moab, so I drove the 40 ~900 miles. I think it drives much more nicely with some positive caster in the front end. It felt much more stable.
I feel like the positive caster puts more effort on the PS system - translating into more heat in the PS fluid. My PS pump was barfing when I worked it hard, so I will be adding a cooler soon. I thought it was just barfing out the top cap due to a weak gasket. I did see it spray some fluid past the front seal after some tight turns in the sand on Wipe Out Hill.
While in Moab I met someone who claimed to have found a replacement bushing for the Toyota PS pump. I will try to track that down and rebuild a pump.
Since this write-up I have gotten a few inquiries about the relay rod on this project.
A quick review: I kept the 40 knuckles on the housing, so I needed a way to tie in with the 60 series pitman arm.
What we did is mate the 40 relay rod to the 60 relay rod with some splints on the outside of the two arms. The splints were notched to accommodate the different diameters.
I contacted CDan about a rebuild kit for the pitman arm end of the relay rod and found Toyota has upgraded the end - you have to buy the entire relay rod for a 60 series.
Here are the pictures: