I am the owner of a 2007 FJ Cruiser. I am having problems with the breaks, sometimes in the mornings and also when applied the breaks when running.The next morning after i washed the car i have had to accelerate the car because the breaks are jammed and the car does not move. Sometimes with a little push is enough. but other times i have to accellerate hard enoung to make them loose. The same happens sometimes when running. I sent the car a few times (car in warranty) to Toyotas Service Centers, but they could not solve the problem. They recommended to run the FJ a few minutes after washing it. If somone knows how to deal with my problem or had the same problem i will appreciate any help.
FJ Cruiser breaks problem
- Thread starter lgse
- Start date
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Check your emergency brake...
double post
Last edited:
Check your caliper bolts.
Sometime the caliper bolts gets frozen and or sticky, pull the little boots off and pull the bolts out and grease them up and reinstall.
Also
Are you using stock OEM pads.
I have found that sometimes when using aftermarket pads they then to hand up on the caliper a little bit on the grooves that the pads ride on the caliper.
Sometime the caliper bolts gets frozen and or sticky, pull the little boots off and pull the bolts out and grease them up and reinstall.
Also
Are you using stock OEM pads.
I have found that sometimes when using aftermarket pads they then to hand up on the caliper a little bit on the grooves that the pads ride on the caliper.
have your dealer c if one side of the pads has more wear then the other side calper may be getting hung up
having more wear on one pad compared to the other pad on a single wheel isn't the issue. that is a rather normal wear pattern due to the pad that has direct contact with the break piston getting more direct preasure compared to the one that is seeing the repelling force of the piston pushing away. it's quite commen to see a 10-20% difference in pad health between the two to support this after sever dozen thousand miles.
i would actually go by what was previously stated, check the caliper bolts and make sure they're not drying up. if they're getting dry, they wont allow the caliper to move back out when pressure is left off, leaving behind residual pessure build up on the bolts since they are just stuck there. at the same time, the piston it's self could also be sticking aswell. if you do a good amount of offroading or anything and there's a good buildup of dirt or the seal is cracked and is letting water in, it can cause it to start to stick within the inside, requiring a whole new break caliper.
the one down side of not having drum breaks... it's no longer just a stupid spring or a holding cap that causes these issues anymore.
EDIT:
ps - this here
i would actually go by what was previously stated, check the caliper bolts and make sure they're not drying up. if they're getting dry, they wont allow the caliper to move back out when pressure is left off, leaving behind residual pessure build up on the bolts since they are just stuck there. at the same time, the piston it's self could also be sticking aswell. if you do a good amount of offroading or anything and there's a good buildup of dirt or the seal is cracked and is letting water in, it can cause it to start to stick within the inside, requiring a whole new break caliper.
the one down side of not having drum breaks... it's no longer just a stupid spring or a holding cap that causes these issues anymore.
EDIT:
ps - this here
this doesn't help... ever...
Not sure your meaning. Eliminate the obvious and from the OP's post, seemed plausible the e-brake may be frozen/rusted. No reason not to check it...
my bad then, i saw it as a rather smart a** comment more than anything. i didn't think about actaually checking the ebrake cause i've personally never seen an ebrake sticking problem unless the rig had been parked for a rather long time, say a few months or more.
