- Thread starter
- #1,181
No, dont know much about starter repair But, might be worth investigating.
Ferkels Fantastic Voyage aka 99 miles to the new sty!
- Thread starter Tomba
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I feel like this image needs to go with Gonzo's ballad of Pig owners:
Hey, I didn't either, tried it on my 94 pickup and it worked out well. For $13, some time on the web and under the truck, it was the fix. It might be that the starter motor is done but it might just be simply a replaceable component failed. Do some research and maybe take a look.
Full Disclosure: I haven't opened up the starter on my 40 or 55.
Full Disclosure: I haven't opened up the starter on my 40 or 55.
- Thread starter
- #1,184
Not sure I have the stomach to dive down into another rabbit hole. Seems I have been chasing problems for a while, and this one remains unsolved leaving me thinking I am not sure how much more I can deal with. It can be maddening.
Just so you know, when you fix one thing USUALLY six more things don’t just take a miraculous dump, but it COULD happen. A 50+ year old rig COULD have a ton of issues just on the verge of rearing their heads and needing addressed, unfortunately it goes with the territory. From a mechanical perspective, you have to look at all of the different systems that make up a vehicle and consider all of the many points of potential failure (there are a lot), inspect them, fix if possible, replace if necessary. Guys who have been in the game for a while can tell you with certainty that they’ve been into every one of these failure points multiple times. If that’s something you’re into it’s going to be a learning curve. If not, you either have to find a guy nearby to do the work or get out of the game. FJ55’s have a reputation for being agitating to mechanical beginners.
I recall a guy about 5 years ago who found a completely original rig up in Oregon. The paint was in really good condition and the body, somehow had no real visible rust. But since it had just sat in a garage or whatever for so long, every single system had some kind of issue and every bolt was rusted in place and so fought him at every turn of the wrench. Finally he just had enough and got rid of it. We haven’t seen it since.
Be patient, keep your eye on the light at the end of the tunnel. If you need to, take a break from it.
I recall a guy about 5 years ago who found a completely original rig up in Oregon. The paint was in really good condition and the body, somehow had no real visible rust. But since it had just sat in a garage or whatever for so long, every single system had some kind of issue and every bolt was rusted in place and so fought him at every turn of the wrench. Finally he just had enough and got rid of it. We haven’t seen it since.
Be patient, keep your eye on the light at the end of the tunnel. If you need to, take a break from it.
You ever try lifting the hood to work on it?
Old & new starters, I carry the little one as a trail spare.
The old starters come apart without much effort and are easy to clean/rebuild
- Thread starter
- #1,187
What kind is that trail spare is that and where can I grab one?? Looks like thats a GR model and available at Oreilys. fit an early model 55? Yes, they look pretty simple. am sure there a re plenty of videos available too. hmmm Orielys fitament search says does not fit 1972
The new ones bolt right up to where the old one bolted, usually have to make a wire or two longer, maybe add a new connector. Do more 'Mud research, I'm pretty sure it'll work. O'Reilly's computer does not always know all.
- Thread starter
- #1,189
I agree, Taking breaks is key. Tinkering here and there is fun but when it takes over its not so fun. It's been the same pattern since I started one fix ---> 6 fixes, I was somewhat prepared as I've rebuilt some older cars before but nothing to this level. To bad I couldn't add all these projects to my resume
- Thread starter
- #1,191
Yep. In doing a quick search, found a decent and inexpensive GR starter option https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/RAY2446154GR starter is a great upgrade, gives you a good bump-start when you stall on the rocks too
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- Thread starter
- #1,192
Ahhh, wow. New starter makes a MASSIVE difference. Plug and play too. Except now I realize I need one a new fusable link wire piece. Stoked about this simple fix, almost 5 lbs lighter too! Ended up getting one from Tpyota (28100=60070-84)
Happy Dads Day to the crew here on MUD!
Happy Dads Day to the crew here on MUD!
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@Tomba all winter long I had to use a 12V jump pack to start my 6V Ford tractor to plow snow. It use to start well when I got it but over the years it cranked poorly. That 12V boost made that starter spin like crazy and the tractor started instantly each time.
So, I bought a new 6V battery. No different . Then came Amazon, new starter… remarkable difference. Instant start. I feel your joy!
So, I bought a new 6V battery. No different . Then came Amazon, new starter… remarkable difference. Instant start. I feel your joy!
- Thread starter
- #1,194
Another suprising upside to swapping the motor and changing all the oils( sans the diffs) is that its significantly less noisy and much smoother on the freeway then before the work. Oh, another quick win was replacing an o-ring on the dizzy to correct a small oil leak. 
- Thread starter
- #1,195
I am only now realizing how bad the initial motor and related setup was before really diving in. I had the wrong dizzy, a very weak starter, the incorrect t/o bearing, low on oil in the trans, carb issues and more. Maybe throwing a bearing wasn't such a bad thing after all
I am only now realizing how bad the initial motor and related setup was before really diving in. I had the wrong dizzy, a very weak starter, the incorrect t/o bearing, low on oil in the trans, carb issues and more. Maybe throwing a bearing wasn't such a bad thing after all
AND……you still enjoyed the hell out of it! So moving forward,… wow!
- Thread starter
- #1,197
Yep. Maybe not at every point along the journey but, its time for a little more enjoyment now and a bit less work but keeping it real, there will always be something to think about "next".
- Thread starter
- #1,198
Already thinking of what's next.. maybe later this summer pop in the vac advance dizzy and Pertronix e ignition conversion. the dizzy is sitting in a box in my shed.
- Thread starter
- #1,199
There was a great write up by georg @VH sometime ago on replacing the pan gasket using permatex copper spray gasket and FIPG in the critical spots.
I am replacing a leaky pushrod inspection place gasket and wondering if I should use same process and, apply the FIPG sealant on the lower half and just the block side of the gasket. Thoughts?
I am replacing a leaky pushrod inspection place gasket and wondering if I should use same process and, apply the FIPG sealant on the lower half and just the block side of the gasket. Thoughts?
That side plate is just a flat plate pretty much right? Doesn't have the sharp corners like the pan gasket, more like a cork valve cover. I'd probably just use copper coat, probably the brush-on instead of the spray.