Ferkels Fantastic Voyage aka 99 miles to the new sty!

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I had some high hopes for getting the rear main /clutch assembly on but caught a snag. small piece of the rear main got hung up....it'll have to wait. The good news? Halloween was fun!

halloween.webp
main bubble.webp
 
Quick question: Is It is necessary to drop the oil pan /loosen the main bolts to get a new rear main seal in, or does the oiled up seal , then tapping in slowly technique work ? Some say take the pan off but I'm pretty confident that the pan gasket is good. That said
I damaged a seal the first I tried tapping it in so I'm not certain on this one...

After re-reading a few threads on this and speaking w/one of my consultants ( @Half Wacked aka Split Pea ) , I decided to do the right thing and replace the pan gasket too.

new OP gasket.webp
 
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Tomba said:
Quick question: Is It is necessary to drop the oil pan /loosen the main bolts to get a new rear main seal in, or does the oiled up seal , then tapping in slowly technique work ? Some say take the pan off but I'm pretty confident that the pan gasket is good. That said
I damaged a seal the first I tried tapping it in so I'm not certain on this one...

After re-reading a few threads on this and speaking w/one of my consultants ( @Half Wacked aka Split Pea ) , I decided to do the right thing and replace the pan gasket too.

View attachment 4026038
Click to expand...
Replacing the pan gasket is just about as much fun as dropping a Pig gas tank.

Good luck!
 
Found the torque specs for the rear bearing cap but minimal detail on the oil pan/gasket although in the tech section there's a great post by @Poser that references FSM but I only see one sentence in the lubricating system section of the FSM re the oil pan gasket replacement. Can someone here point me to where there might be more detail on this? I think I have enough into to finish but would like to read the FSM version for this procedure.

Thanks crew-
 
Tomba said:
I think I have enough into to finish but would like to read the FSM version for this procedure.
Click to expand...
Oilpan gasket? I did one not long ago, didn't look in the book except to get the oilpan bolt torque spec. Then I went to buy a little torque wrench.

1) buy the one-piece oilpan gasket, not the 4-piece.
B) Clean both the oilpan and block surfaces very very well, take this opportunity to straighten any wavey parts of the oilpan lip where the bolts got over-torqued.
III) I used Copper Coat gasket sealer this time, worked pretty well. There are a couple dozen different ways to hold the oilpan up in the air while you thread the rest of the oilpan bolts in. I use 4 studs in the corners with nuts. This time I just snugged the oilpan up to the block and let the gasket sealer set overnight, didn't start torquing them down until the next day and the cork didn't squeeze out like it did last time.

Not my first time with this gasket but this time I took some care with the surface prep and torquing and it's pretty dry even 6 months later.

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Pighead said:
Oilpan gasket? I did one not long ago, didn't look in the book except to get the oilpan bolt torque spec. Then I went to buy a little torque wrench.

1) buy the one-piece oilpan gasket, not the 4-piece.
B) Clean both the oilpan and block surfaces very very well, take this opportunity to straighten any wavey parts of the oilpan lip where the bolts got over-torqued.
III) I used Copper Coat gasket sealer this time, worked pretty well. There are a couple dozen different ways to hold the oilpan up in the air while you thread the rest of the oilpan bolts in. I use 4 studs in the corners with nuts. This time I just snugged the oilpan up to the block and let the gasket sealer set overnight, didn't start torquing them down until the next day and the cork didn't squeeze out like it did last time.

Not my first time with this gasket but this time I took some care with the surface prep and torquing and it's pretty dry even 6 months later.

View attachment 4027247

View attachment 4027248

View attachment 4027249
Click to expand...
Yes to all of those things. The one thing that differs is where to use the gasket sealer, on both sides of the bearing portions & on the ends and around the corners where the bolts are but some use a thin layer on both sides. throughout. With that thick of a cork gasket I would imagine just using it as I mentioned would likely be good. I'm using Toyota FIPG. One thing I added was chasing all the bolt holes and bolts to avoid any issues as I did find a few that were a bit sus. From looking at your old gasket ,Looks like you used sealant on both side yes?
Thanks!
 
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Tomba said:
Looks like you used sealant on both side yes?
Click to expand...
Oh yes, sealant both sides of the gasket

Edit: it just occured to me, Georg posted a very good thread about oilpan gaskets and rear mains in the FJ60 section.
 
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found it.
orangefj45

Thread 'F, 2F, 3F and 3FE rear main seal, oil pan gasket and clutch installation instructions'

I’ve been asked countless times how we install these items so I thought it was about time I’d post a thread on here about it.
I was taught how to install these parts by a couple of people with VAST experience, one of them being none other than Mudrak.

First step is to remove the oil pan. The easiest way to do this is to remove all the bolts but one towards one of the ends at the front. Next, use a putty knife, or a very thin chisel, and working forward from the back of the engine, taking care now to gouge the engine block itself.
Then remove the remaining gasket and any...
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Pighead said:
found it.
orangefj45

Thread 'F, 2F, 3F and 3FE rear main seal, oil pan gasket and clutch installation instructions'

I’ve been asked countless times how we install these items so I thought it was about time I’d post a thread on here about it.
I was taught how to install these parts by a couple of people with VAST experience, one of them being none other than Mudrak.

First step is to remove the oil pan. The easiest way to do this is to remove all the bolts but one towards one of the ends at the front. Next, use a putty knife, or a very thin chisel, and working forward from the back of the engine, taking care now to gouge the engine block itself.
Then remove the remaining gasket and any...
  • Like
  • Wow
Click to expand...
Some great detail in here! Few things stood out to me. I didnt use any FIPG on the outside of my rear seal and I am thinking about getting new flywheel bolts and maybe even pan bolts. I chased mine and they look good but this thread got me a lil paranoid 😯.. I think I need to grab some Permatex “copper spray gasket” too....
 
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progress n questions:

Got the pan gasket /flywheel on.

Next is replacing the TO bearing. I took the bearing off the housing but not sure of the bearing I received is the right one. The opening is clearly too big to fit snug on the housing. Its from RockAuto and says fits 72 fj55 3.9L... Also, Do I need new housing as I chipped a piece out of it housing removing the bearing? I did notice there's a plastic sleeve inside on the old bearing and am wondering if that is supposed to be used with the new bearing🤔

TIA for the help

flywheel done.webp
pan done.webp
TO bearings.webp
 
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