exhaust manifold fit

[Jadavm]

Is it possible to mate the exhaust to the head with just two studs in the middle, then install the last four studs after the manifold holes are parallel / perpendicular to the head?

I've heard of people replacing the outside four studs with screws so it assembles easier. Maybe cut a groove on the face of the stud with a grinder so it can be installed with a screwdriver, or use a pair of nuts compressed against each other on the stud to drive it with a socket or wrench.

I appreciate the suggestion, I can certainly try your first suggestion and see how it goes.

 

[Jadavm]

Jadavm, have you put a straight edge on that exhaust manifold ?

Is it possible to mate the exhaust to the head with just two studs in the middle, then install the last four studs after the manifold holes are parallel / perpendicular to the head?

I've heard of people replacing the outside four studs with screws so it assembles easier. Maybe cut a groove on the face of the stud with a grinder so it can be installed with a screwdriver, or use a pair of nuts compressed against each other on the stud to drive it with a socket or wrench.

Peesalot; It seems that the ports in the middle are the same, the far left a little high, and the far right a little low. Machining seems like an appropriate next step.

Grayscale, I tried your first suggestion to similar results as I have had before. If I put the far left port stud in, I can't get the right in, and vice-versa.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Maybe you can "warp" it enough with a propane torch by heating a selected area so it twists enough fit. Loosely bolt the manifolds together. Have gaskets and studs installed. Put the assembly in place on the firewall end. Start heating the cast iron on the raderator side where you want it to grow so it warps to fit over the stud. Have your nuts/washers/tools/gloves ready to install. Likely works better with 2 people. Torque from inside out in 2 or 3 rounds. Hook up all the stuff and fire it up to get hot - let cool and re-torque at 100%. Go for a nice drive, at least 50 miles, let cool and check the torque again.

 

[Jadavm]

Maybe you can "warp" it enough with a propane torch by heating a selected area so it twists enough fit. Loosely bolt the manifolds together. Have gaskets and studs installed. Put the assembly in place on the firewall end. Start heating the cast iron on the raderator side where you want it to grow so it warps to fit over the stud. Have your nuts/washers/tools/gloves ready to install. Likely works better with 2 people. Torque from inside out in 2 or 3 rounds. Hook up all the stuff and fire it up to get hot - let cool and re-torque at 100%. Go for a nice drive, at least 50 miles, let cool and check the torque again.

Gotcha, I'll have to plan a day it sounds like to be safe, as I could see juggling the exhaust and the heat on with just one person would lead to a lot of frustration. I'd assume on a warp like this, that it would be pretty unlikely that milling would do much to help? I am curious if I stop by a machine shop if they can get a more precise level/warp on it. I would have to not be able to use the manifold, I like keeping this thing as original as possible.

 

[Jadavm]

Update to anyone following: A shop near me converted a ski belt sander into an exhaust manifold belt sander, and were able to get the warp out of it. It fits great now.

Sounds like enough modern cars' exhaust manifolds are warping that some exhaust shops have made large belt sanders to resurface exhaust manifolds. A quick fix that saved me a lot of stress and extra work.