electrolytic cleaning ?

[Junk]

Anyone ever tried electrolytic cleaning? Working on a few bigger pieces that just ain't coming clean using the heated parts washer. Figure this is my next step, but can not find directions for it anywhere on the net.

Anyone tried it or know how to do it?

Thanks

 

[Poser]

No.

What are you trying to get clean? Could it be hot tanked? Many larger machine shops have a good sized hot tank that for a little cash, will soak it for you...Works pretty well. I know a guy that was able to get his front and rear axle housings tanked. Turned out really nice. I have tanked a few tranny housings, and such.

Good luck!


Post up a link to this other process if you have one.

-Steve

 

[Junk]

Tried my home brew version of hot tank using the heated parts washer. Had the stuff sitting in there for 2 days to no real avail. Checked the temp and it was sufficiently hot. I've seen a few mention this other process on some welding boards, but could never get the inside scoop. Seems to be as secretive as to how to import a land cruiser mining truck

If I find anything out, I will post. Paying for someone else to do it is not an option right now.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks

 

[Vortec62]

Electrolytic cleaning sounds almost like some sort of reverse plating process. If you run the electrical current the other direction maybe it takes the first layer of metal off of your part. Seems like that might take the dirt and grunge with it...except I think dirt and grunge might insulate that area of the part and you'll end up etching away all the areas that are already clean and leave the dirty ones behind.

What about a steam cleaner or one of those car wash places with high pressure spray wands. Some of them around here have an engine degreaser solution in them.

I ran my t-case through the dishwasher in a rental I was living in...cascade's sheeting action doesn't get mud and grease off of aluminum. I didn't try anything stronger.

 

[Junk]

So far I've found this http://www.oldengine.org/members/bi...lectrolysis.htm

Of course that is much bigger than what I'm doing, but I need to be able to do this with something size of a transmission.

 

[Vortec62]

Your link doesn't work

 

[Junk]

Neither does my rig

Will try again http://www.oldengine.org/members/billd/trailer-electrolysis.htm Maybe I needed to add another flip, so here's one for good luck

 

[Junk]

that one works. Must have needed the extra

 

[Vortec62]

That's purty neat. Must be a heck of a 'lectric bill though. 80volts @ 125Amps is like 10kW and he did that for 56 hours

I wish I could remember more from chemistry class now

The + was in the water and the - was on the metal...electrons flow from - to +...so do the electrons latch on to the Fe[sub]2[/sub]O[sub]3[/sub] and drag it with them?

Sounds like it works well for removing rust but maybe not dirt and grunge

 

[Junk]

Ya lost me on the Fe2O3, isn't that like the secret code name to break in and use Woody's password?

Seriously, I have no idea. I'm just trying to read up on this stuff on the net, but there is very little info out there. Think I need to find me a chemistry teacher or something.

Maybe this weekend I'll just hook the + up to Koffer's ears and the - up to his nads and see what happens.

 

[Vortec62]

Fe[sub]2[/sub]O[sub]3[/sub] = iron oxide = rust.

Man I have forgotten a lot. I was just looking thru my old chemistry book at oxidation-reduction reactions. This is how rust forms. I can't make heads or tails of it anymore

There was a little blurb about electrolysis too.

+ is the Anode where oxidation takes place
- is the Cathode where reduction takes place

I think that means his nads'll pucker up and oxygen will start coming out his ears

 

[CDN_Cruiser]

just chuck your toaster into the hot tank

 

[Overlord]

Yes I've done it. Used an old cooler for the tank, some rebar from Home Depot for the electrodes, and my 10A Sears battery charger. You also need washing soda, Arm and Hammer Laundry Soda works great. Takes some time to work, it will remove paint along with the rust changing black in color. This black stuff (not sure what it is) comes off easy with a wire wheel or just wipe it off.

 

[Junk]

Overlord,
Out of curiousity, how long did you let yours sit in the tank and how big was the workpiece? Thanks.

 

[cavsfj40]

i have been thinking o f doing some zinc plating using some supplies on hand in the chem closet. to remove rust, soak the part in muriatic acid, which is a reducer. grime, i have no idea about, but ultrasonic cleaning is awesome. cleans up just about the most grimy small parts ever. the cleaner we have is only about 24" X 24" X 12" BUT IN AN HOUR, all the grime comes off

 

[Junk]

cavs, then how about some details of the process? I'm searching here and not coming up with much info

 

[cavsfj40]

well, ultrasonic is what i use for the small bitts, and basically it shoots high frequency sounds through a liquid medium and the dirt is vibrated off (like when an opera singer breaks a crystal glass). The acid will remove rust becaus ethe acid is a reducer, which is the opposte of the air/water/salt that made your car part rust. the zinc plating will be posted someday when i set up the apparatus

 

[Overlord]

[quote author=Junk link=board=14;threadid=12401;start=msg116945#msg116945 date=1078713029]
Overlord,
Out of curiousity, how long did you let yours sit in the tank and how big was the workpiece? Thanks.
[/quote]

I used electrolysis on pretty much everything in this box:

Some the larger parts, like the winch drum, I left overnight. The smaller piece were left in less than 30 minutes.

 

[HI^C]

http://www.vintagecarclub.com.au/CausticSoda.htm

no experience with this, but it is listed as some bad stuff,
recommended to me and i will be tryin this stuff.

 

[Junk]

Very cool, Overlord, don't have any before pics do ya? that looks awesome. Will be trying it this coming week.