I have a serious vibration that occurs between roughly 28-48 mph while maintaining a consistant speed. If I accelerate heavily or remove my foot from the accelerator the vibration stops. I brought my truck to a local dealer and they swapped a driveshaft from a new FJC on to mine and it cured the problem. I did not have the money at the time to replace the driveshaft and I was told by the lead tech that as long as I could live with the vibration that it should not hurt anything. I had some other work done at a local trusted shop and asked them about the problem and they came to the same conclusion. Bottom line is that both shops told me that the driveshaft needed to be replaced. I finally got around to purchasing a new driveshaft and I have several capable club members that are willing to help me with the swap but what I need to know is if this is a straightforward removal and re-install of the driveshafts or if there is anthing special required to make this happen. The last thing I want to do is create more of a vibration problem by improperly installing the new driveshaft. Thanks for the help.
Driveshaft replacement
- Thread starter Grouper
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
None that I know of, should be very simple and straight forward, at least when I removed mine...
Don't separate the shaft at the slip yoke. They're balanced as is.
Remember the direction of the bolts on the rear output flange and reinsert the same way. ( FSM claims one time use on these fasteners, by the way. )
If memory serves, they're studs in the output flange of the TC.
Again, if memory serves, you'll want to put the TC in neutral, so exercise safety precautions.
Separate at the diff first, which may require a little prying, but there's accommodations on the joint for.
Support shaft with jack stand and, since its in neutral, spin around on the jack stand to gain access to the nuts. May require putting back in gear once the angle is right, for leverage,
Remember the direction of the bolts on the rear output flange and reinsert the same way. ( FSM claims one time use on these fasteners, by the way. )
If memory serves, they're studs in the output flange of the TC.
Again, if memory serves, you'll want to put the TC in neutral, so exercise safety precautions.
Separate at the diff first, which may require a little prying, but there's accommodations on the joint for.
Support shaft with jack stand and, since its in neutral, spin around on the jack stand to gain access to the nuts. May require putting back in gear once the angle is right, for leverage,
There was a tsb on that, dealer replaced mine for free, they called it good faith repair
1911
chupacabra
The only thing I would add is, if a little prying won't compress the slip yoke enough to get the flange off of the studs, then remove the grease zerk on the slip yoke and you will be able to easily compress the slip yoke more (though grease will come out of the zerk hole in a thin stream).
And if the shaft does become disconnected from the slip yoke for any reason, be sure to assemble them in phase.
- Thread starter
- #8
Well we got the driveshaft changed with no problem and it fixed the thunking issue I was experiencing at start and stop but didn't cure the vibration/shuddering problem. I somehow managed to completely miss all of the threads on the blue room in reference to this problem and it seems that what I have is a bad case of the dreaded shuddering transmission. It seems to be pretty common on the 07 AT approaching the 100k mark. I just got finished reading numerous threads describing exactly what I am experiencing and it appears that the only real cure is a new tranny and/or torque converter. I am going to try a full TFS and see if it helps since I am due for my 90,000 mile service. Fingers crossed because I don't think I've got it in me to drop 4k on replacing them. I think I might be better off picking up a new one and just swapping aftermarket parts with the dealer.
