DIY EGR Gasket - what material would work? (1 Viewer)

[Norseman12]

BLUF: What readily-available material could/should I use to fabricate an EGR gasket, since I can't get any delivered quick enough.

1. Black fiber-looking "gasket material" at the hardware store labeled "high temp." I couldn't find any information online about what this particular product was actually rated for.

2. Black "gasket material" from Autozone with no mention of heat resistance or rating.

3. Reuse the old gasket, by scraping off the black coating, which is torn, and applying Ultra Copper RTV to the metal surfaces.

4. Beer can or other household material.

5. Other.

I managed to pull my EGR valve last night and sure enough the main port was completely crusted over. I scraped everything out as best I could, and the valve appears to cycle when I apply vacuum. The valve itself was almost loose on the intake manifold and the gasket appeared compromised, so I'm hopeful the EGR was simultaneously pulling in too much exhaust past the flange at idle as well as not getting enough exhaust gas through the port at higher rpm, thereby causing both the rough idle and the 71 code.

 

[voodu3]

For a temporary fix just get whatever exhaust gasket material your parts store has. Take the old gasket with you and try to match the thickness. I’d also order a Toyota gasket and replace when you can. Good luck.

 

[Norseman12]

For a temporary fix just get whatever exhaust gasket material your parts store has. Take the old gasket with you and try to match the thickness. I’d also order a Toyota gasket and replace when you can. Good luck.

Unfortunately they don't seem to have "exhaust" gasket material.

 

[jpoole]

I'd probably go with some version along the lines of #3. This isn't a situation where gasket thickness matters too much but the og gasket will keep things close to, or in spec on that front. It will be easier to just reuse what you have vs. tracing/cutting a replacement and after adding something to make up for the damage to the og gasket I'd guess that you'll have no, or minimal, leaks. I've heard of folks recommending the copper rtv for exhaust gaskets and I've used it a few times on old air cooled VW exhaust gaskets, at least without ill effect though it may have helped with sealing and/or disassembly later.

 

[CharlieS]

If you have a set of hole punches, it is easy to make a new gasket. That black high temp stuff sounds like a good candidate. If it doesn't work, it's easy enough to replace. You can get high temp gasket sealant goop at the auto parts store. I seem to recall the permatex stuff being a red material. That's what I used with my block off plates and factory gaskets.

 

[Norseman12]

I'd probably go with some version along the lines of #3. This isn't a situation where gasket thickness matters too much but the og gasket will keep things close to, or in spec on that front. It will be easier to just reuse what you have vs. tracing/cutting a replacement and after adding something to make up for the damage to the og gasket I'd guess that you'll have no, or minimal, leaks. I've heard of folks recommending the copper rtv for exhaust gaskets and I've used it a few times on old air cooled VW exhaust gaskets, at least without ill effect though it may have helped with sealing and/or disassembly later.

I

If you have a set of hole punches, it is easy to make a new gasket. That black high temp stuff sounds like a good candidate. If it doesn't work, it's easy enough to replace. You can get high temp gasket sealant goop at the auto parts store. I seem to recall the permatex stuff being a red material. That's what I used with my block off plates and factory gaskets.

 

[Norseman12]

I ended up finding a big sheet of Fel-Pro exhaust gasket material (it was huge and cost $25). I used some tin snips and Harbor Freight hole punches to copy the oem gasket, and it turned out pretty well. Harbor Freight also had the female torx bits I needed to remove the studs before I reinstalled the EGR. I did not have them when I removed it. I also found the following Channellock 10" adjustable wrench (with a cheater pipe) worked really well for the union nut.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UJKZYM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1