fzj80 ff rear. kill 4 stoned birds...disks, ebrake, full float, selectable locker...or find a cable locking FF 40/60 series rear. the integrated ebrake on the 80 axle is superb.
Delancy's NEW 76 PIGGY ???
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fzj80 ff rear. kill 4 stoned birds...disks, ebrake, full float, selectable locker...or find a cable locking FF 40/60 series rear. the integrated ebrake on the 80 axle is superb.
splitcase hands down better than one piece...
I hear the sarcasm laden in those words.
Every village has an idiot.......
Will be proficient in parts returns soon, since I'm skilled at sourcing, yet ignorant "for what".
Keep in mind, I already have all rebuild components for:
Ebrake
Rear Brakes
Rear Drums
Rear axle
Driveshafts
Transfer case
4 speed
Sitting in storage, along with all kinds of others that are unnecessary.
Have a few to return, it appears.
Chris,
This is what I have used, also. H55, split case tranfer and a FJ 60 rear axle with the E-brake on it. Then you can look for a split case PTO for the winch.
Have the H55 and split case....well, on the way.
Wasn't keen to swapping axles, though it was suggested to swap diffs for ratio.
Have to find a solution that maintains the 55 rear axle, since the width of the 60 would look cool, but not wanting to return all the front axle components I have sitting in storage, already, and the varied track width would drive me nuts.
80 axle is way too wide and if going to that degree (front and rear, to match track width) I'd swap a Pig carcass onto a rolling 80 chassis and get the best of all worlds....subjective, I realize.
Anyhow, what's the story with the SOR kit?
Can these parts not be sourced from OZ still?
More for reference
Man - a little searching would save all these questionsYes, if you swap a H55 you have to use a split case and you loose the transfer case mounted ebrake. This leaves you two options, pay out the nose for a OEM split case ebrake setup from $OR or add a TSM disk to the transfer case. No, you cannot mount the late 40 or 60 series drum mounted ebrake to any stock FJ55 axle. You will also have to source some specialty bolts to mount the split case to said H55 (4 - 12mmx125mm/ 3 - 12mmx170mm), but this would be the same for the early 60. You will also have to source or fab a cross member to support the longer driveline, but again this would be the same on an early 60. The late 60s have a H42 with an extending spacer meaning it is the same length as a H55, which is why this swap is easier in that truck.
Hope this helps -
Tucker
And more.....
Line locks have been suggested. Seems easy enough for a parking brake....
Take a rust-free Pig over a 60 any day, what you've found is a very rare birdA '78 is mechanically identical to an FJ40 of the same vintage, so there is plenty of H55 swap info out there for you (actually easier due to the longer wheelbase). Your biggest hurdle is the e-brake - you can do an eldorado disk swap ... line lock etc. to get around this.
The hardest thing to find on the piggies is body parts, if that's in good condition you pretty much have the whole spectrum of OEM/aftermarket 40 parts to choose from. You're best bet on lift is getting custom Alcans made - OME used to make a 55 lift as well ... stay away from the Man-a-fre at all cost. Ironpig offroad has bumpers and sliders for pigs, Man-a-fre has some stuff as well.
I can't remember one time I drove my pig around town with out getting nods, stares or questions ... way cooler than a 60 IMO.
Tucker
I post some much crap, it's hard to pilfer through and I appreciate y'alls patience.
A concern Onur brought up is the later fan clutch combating for room with the radiator.
I know I've seen a solution to this, that doesn't involve moving motor, but can't find anywhere.
A concern Onur brought up is the later fan clutch combating for room with the radiator.
I know I've seen a solution to this, that doesn't involve moving motor, but can't find anywhere.
You are the " Search Master " 
I saw your h55 in the box today....if it looks like a 3sp when you get it, I had nothing to do with it!
You are really going to like it, from what I hear. I have not found an e clip for one of the hood hinges, and I have looked all around for the original. All to no avail. I guess i will have to stop by a hardware store. They are ready to go with OEM bolts. There are 4 bushings left over. What do you want me to do with them?
You are really going to like it, from what I hear. I have not found an e clip for one of the hood hinges, and I have looked all around for the original. All to no avail. I guess i will have to stop by a hardware store. They are ready to go with OEM bolts. There are 4 bushings left over. What do you want me to do with them?
What, pray tell, did you leave the candy store with, if you don't mind my asking?
Since you've deemed them viable, keep them, let me know how many more are needed to do another set for mine, and the set I'm sending you for cores, plus your own for your Pig. and I'll get them coming straight to you.
In order to get an OEM head gasket, you have to purchase the entire seal kit. So, I will have an unopened aftermarket engine gasket kit, it looks like. I also had to get the cam expansion plug lamb crusher insists on. I am almost ready to assemble.
It takes 20 bushings to rebuild all door hinges and the hood hinges for one pig.
It takes 20 bushings to rebuild all door hinges and the hood hinges for one pig.
The split case drum parts are damn near impossible to find anymore, I know Poser bought the output shaft and housing not long ago off here ... not sure if it was for a customer or the horde . Another option is the 70 series rear axle, nearly identical width to the 55 axle and SF/FF/locker options were all available with integrated ebrakes . I wanted to find a 70 series FF and bolt the 80 series disk/drum setup to it ... one got away for reasonable money :-( I'd say the 5-speed is well worth this problem, send all the lesser crapola back to Mr T
Tucker
. Another option is the 70 series rear axle, nearly identical width to the 55 axle and SF/FF/locker options were all available with integrated ebrakes . I wanted to find a 70 series FF and bolt the 80 series disk/drum setup to it ... one got away for reasonable money :-( I'd say the 5-speed is well worth this problem, send all the lesser crapola back to Mr T Tucker
I've got a whole bag of those stupid brass bushings I couldn't make work in my 40 doors, yours for the shipping if you can use them.
Tucker
No need in letting them go to waste. Send them on.
use water pump for oil cooled non clutch fan for 76-77 fj40/55. also will need correct fan blade and pulley for this application. (sor) the right water pump is actually longer than the later clutch fan pumps, but the pulley is backset from the water pump hub face... you'll get about 1" clearance
but it works...
fzj80 axle is too wide by about 7" when compared to the 55s rear WMS() of 56". a 60 series front or 1 1/2" spacers on the 55 front and shortening the 80s rear by 3 1/8- 3 1/2 will give you the slight front bias in track that was originally used by toyota. you can cheat a bit if you're just concerned about matching front to rear...I used the nitro cut to length locker OK axle shaft cause it used the factory oil seal, had integral flange and is a shelf kept shaft. the shortening isn't as crazy as it sounds and can be done by a determined individual. I used the spindle stub end and the axle shaft torqued onto a packed and adjusted hub and fed into a diff without the pinion shaft so the extra shaft could also spline into the opposite side side gear. I had to take a tiny bit off the OD of the spindle end stub to fit into the unmachined part of the axle tube; how much and where determined by the fit with the diff. got it to all mesh and slide all the way together and burned it home in 3 passes. this dimension and the backspacing of factory 16 rims gives me a track gain of about 1/2-3/4" over stock
but it works...fzj80 axle is too wide by about 7" when compared to the 55s rear WMS() of 56". a 60 series front or 1 1/2" spacers on the 55 front and shortening the 80s rear by 3 1/8- 3 1/2 will give you the slight front bias in track that was originally used by toyota. you can cheat a bit if you're just concerned about matching front to rear...I used the nitro cut to length locker OK axle shaft cause it used the factory oil seal, had integral flange and is a shelf kept shaft. the shortening isn't as crazy as it sounds and can be done by a determined individual. I used the spindle stub end and the axle shaft torqued onto a packed and adjusted hub and fed into a diff without the pinion shaft so the extra shaft could also spline into the opposite side side gear. I had to take a tiny bit off the OD of the spindle end stub to fit into the unmachined part of the axle tube; how much and where determined by the fit with the diff. got it to all mesh and slide all the way together and burned it home in 3 passes. this dimension and the backspacing of factory 16 rims gives me a track gain of about 1/2-3/4" over stock
Congrats.
Record speed.
[QUOTE="Midgainc;8843567"
It takes 20 bushings to rebuild all door hinges and the hood hinges for one pig.[/QUOTE]
I'll get 60 coming then.
The split case drum parts are damn near impossible to find anymore, I know Poser bought the output shaft and housing not long ago off here ... not sure if it was for a customer or the horde
Tucker
Going to stick with the 55 axles.....I think.
Been waiting on communication from Steve, the last being one that would preclude my nagging further, on a few other parts.
Hope all's well.
Can't wait to nag about the parts.
My guy in "Aichi" (which I think may be a little misrepresented) said the part numbers don't show in his system, period, so hopefully a CAN or AUS source may have.
There's an eBay seller that had marketed in the past (I didn't know what it was for) that I'm going to try to contact, too, all after consultation with the main man.
I had no intentions of the 5 speed, but listened to the advisory committee, as they're fully aware of my intentions to drive this Pig, daily, at highway speeds (75mph) for many years.
At every issue and expense, I can hear the Shaman chanting "350 Chebby, 350 Chebby".
I fall into the "new audience" category, for sure, handicapped by the fact I showed up midway through the second act.
use water pump for oil cooled non clutch fan for 76-77 fj40/55. also will need correct fan blade and pulley for this application. (sor) the right water pump is actually longer than the later clutch fan pumps, but the pulley is backset from the water pump hub face... you'll get about 1" clearance
This will work on the later 85-87 2F head?
If you were to properly power that h55 with 350 cubes, your guilt should be somewhat mitigated by your obsession with your 72's originality. Forcing a historic relic to conform to modern standards of performance and comfort can be futile...especially when it's original purpose is significantly different from either.
the point of the parking brake is also to be an emergency brake, linelocks work off the same as your brake system, therefor if the brakes fail, you have no park brake either. more than once, i've limped home downshifting and pulling the ebrake.
Wouldn't dream of a 350 Chebby...... But a 2UZ..,,Bahaha.
I probably ought to master the tractor motor before moving up to anything complicated.