I realize it's not infallible. Really prefer the drum brake, considering I want to keep the 55 axles and the h55 too.
Delancy's NEW 76 PIGGY ???
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I realize it's not infallible. Really prefer the drum brake, considering I want to keep the 55 axles and the h55 too.
Moar, moar, moar.
What's the story, Ige?
I've ordered parts, to turn around and order more parts, to find out that none may work.
Will take all the help we can get.
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
it's what I run...same head even. the water pump has nothing to do with the head anyway, the tstat housing is what goes with the head...
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
that's witchcraft- phooey, you don't want a clutch on the fan anyhow
, but, yes, Ige, please enlighten us...special pulley and clutch, huh? how much room between the rad and the fan? I only know of 2 ways to clear the rad with the fan when using the late motor...move the rad out or the engine back, or run the pump/pulley/fan combo I mentioned. learning another way to do this would be cool...
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
wonder if early axle backing plate mount could be removed and replaced with a later one that has built in brakes. can't be that difficult, would reuse all parts from the stock axle...kinda like when guys put later knuckles on an early axle...I personally think the tcase brake has a cool factor, but it never worked as well as the brakes in the back do right now, and function has to be the reason to choose something>cool factor should only ever be a side effect...
tucker74
Moderator
Early backing plate has 6 mounting bolts, three on top and three on bottom with the two cylinders mounting on each side. Later backing plate has 4 mounting bolts with a single cylinder mounting up top and a pivot arm riveted at the bottom to allow for the brake cable and arm movement. You might be able to cut off the ring from the old and weld it into the new backing plate, not sure if the mounting bolts would get in the way but the bottom center would be an issue. You'd still be missing the two brake cable mounts on the axle, I'm sure those could be fabbed as well if you had enough determination. All brake functionality would depend on those welds ...
Tucker
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
Early backing plate has 6 mounting bolts, three on top and three on bottom with the two cylinders mounting on each side. Later backing plate has 4 mounting bolts with a single cylinder mounting up top and a pivot arm riveted at the bottom to allow for the brake cable and arm movement. You might be able to cut off the ring from the old and weld it into the new backing plate, not sure if the mounting bolts would get in the way but the bottom center would be an issue. You'd still be missing the two brake cable mounts on the axle, I'm sure those could be fabbed as well if you had enough determination. All brake functionality would depend on those welds ...
Tucker
right....I meant to actually cut the end bell off of both ends of a later housing and weld them onto the ends of an earlier housing, netting the stock axle and internals used with the later drums and integrated ebrake. the axle end bells are installed in the rear just as they are in the front. cut around the tube just inboard of the factory weld just like a front cut and turn, then remove end bells and swap. the end bells are machined to fit into machined bores in the tube ends. if you can remove the end bell with a portion of its machined sleeve exposed, they'll slip right back into a bored tube end( both the bell and tube ends keep their machined surfaces by cutting just inboard the factory welds. swap the stock backing plate MOUNTS...
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
is this to be a DD? (sorry if I missed that) If so, using more obtainium parts is a bonus IMO, and lets face it, the 60 series style brake parts are far less expensive than getting any kind of usable Tcase brake set-up for a split case, and the repair parts for the Tcase brake and shaft aren't going to make that math any easier. If you're going for correct-ish and are set on using the Tcase style brake, then discount my $.02...I have no useful info on those as I discounted their use back when I couldn't seem to get my parking brake just right, and dropping the drive shaft and unstaking and untorquing the rear output bearing in order to fix the brake was just too maddening. I fixed it as soon as I could by spending about 100 hours and 900 bucks and swapped in a custom fzj80 rear end
I hear you, man, I'm just beating the dead horse further into submission, to make sure it's dead.
Found a drum in the US.
Found the shaft in UAE.
So, as Tucker said, good at finding crap......that I don't know if should be found.
Stopping short of searching or buying anything further, until I can really consider all options, see what makes sense.
Why do I have a hard time swapping the rear axle?
Is it just because of all the parts sourced, paid, and on hand, or is it more idealism that's the bigger stumbling block?
Honestly can't say.
Guess I'll see how easy a late 40 axle is to find and weigh options.
Problem with that is, there won't be one within a 1000 miles of here and freight will be a killer, THEN, knowing my experience level, it'll prompt some other form of this exact same predicament.
Found a drum in the US.
Found the shaft in UAE.
So, as Tucker said, good at finding crap......that I don't know if should be found.
Stopping short of searching or buying anything further, until I can really consider all options, see what makes sense.
Why do I have a hard time swapping the rear axle?
Is it just because of all the parts sourced, paid, and on hand, or is it more idealism that's the bigger stumbling block?
Honestly can't say.
Guess I'll see how easy a late 40 axle is to find and weigh options.
Problem with that is, there won't be one within a 1000 miles of here and freight will be a killer, THEN, knowing my experience level, it'll prompt some other form of this exact same predicament.
tucker74
Moderator
If it helps any with justification, I'm over 6 bills in this axle (buying/shipping/blasting/rebuilding). Still probably less than those split-case drum parts, but not a cheap swap by any means. I like that 60 parts will be around for a long time ...
Tucker
Yes, but....
Compound the expense of the entire rear 55 axle rebuild parts I have already amassed and the drum parts seem more feasible.
Starting to like the idea of the line lock.....
60 from the axle ends out?
What else is 60 specific?
tucker74
Moderator
The '79+ 40 axle is identical to a 60 axle other than the tube length, meaning it uses the shorter 40 series axle shafts. The chunk and axle ends are all identical, and since the 6X were built until '89 they'll be parts around for a long time.
Tucker
My mind is racing so many different ways, right now, all retrospective, which is never much fun....
In retrospect, I'm nor so sure that 60 front and rear axles may not have been a better "solution", along with 60 PS.
At the point I am now, I almost feel that going to the trouble to source the TC brake would be easier on the noggin', considering that it's the least amount of steps to retrace.
While the later 40 housing is appealing, due to track width and "bolt on" compatibility, about all that'd swap is the third, leaving an entire axles worth of rebuild/reseal components to buy.....again. At least appearances are OE, not that anyone but me gives two chits.
I lack the technical proficiency to make a good decision, at this point, to which y'all are all aware.
Now that I have everything, and I mean everything, to completely redo the 55 front and rear axles/steering (along with a host of other items), considering the addition of the H55/split case, resto "mod", DD only, along with a few other nuances, this might have been the direction that I should've thunk more along the lines of:
60 front and rear axles, complete
60 diffs
60 power steering, complete
60 leafs
Somebody give me a reason that this isn't a more effective way to address all aspects of concern, please.....
Have been through this before on the 80.
Though there are many things I would do differently, all suspension related, I can't think of but a few folks that agreed with me on building the 80 axles, to the extent I did, in OE form.
Second guessed the decision on more than one occasion, yet, today, I wouldn't have it any other way, so that experience does carry some weight, here. (Not the suspension, [ie. coils, arms, and the turd polishing that followed] I still regret my decision there)
Sailing the high seas on the Ship of Theseus, yet concerned about new oars wood type.
In retrospect, I'm nor so sure that 60 front and rear axles may not have been a better "solution", along with 60 PS.
At the point I am now, I almost feel that going to the trouble to source the TC brake would be easier on the noggin', considering that it's the least amount of steps to retrace.
While the later 40 housing is appealing, due to track width and "bolt on" compatibility, about all that'd swap is the third, leaving an entire axles worth of rebuild/reseal components to buy.....again. At least appearances are OE, not that anyone but me gives two chits.
I lack the technical proficiency to make a good decision, at this point, to which y'all are all aware.
Now that I have everything, and I mean everything, to completely redo the 55 front and rear axles/steering (along with a host of other items), considering the addition of the H55/split case, resto "mod", DD only, along with a few other nuances, this might have been the direction that I should've thunk more along the lines of:
60 front and rear axles, complete
60 diffs
60 power steering, complete
60 leafs
Somebody give me a reason that this isn't a more effective way to address all aspects of concern, please.....
Have been through this before on the 80.
Though there are many things I would do differently, all suspension related, I can't think of but a few folks that agreed with me on building the 80 axles, to the extent I did, in OE form.
Second guessed the decision on more than one occasion, yet, today, I wouldn't have it any other way, so that experience does carry some weight, here. (Not the suspension, [ie. coils, arms, and the turd polishing that followed] I still regret my decision there)
Sailing the high seas on the Ship of Theseus, yet concerned about new oars wood type.
tucker74
Moderator
The way I see it either way is more or less stock, just neither was offered here A transfer case mounted ebrake on a split case was offered by Toyota on Land Cruisers, as was the integrated rear drum ebrake. All the rebuild parts you bought sans brakes will work, so you'd really only need exchange those bits to to the late 40 axle swap. If you can find the drum bits, go that direction. You win either way.
Tucker
A transfer case mounted ebrake on a split case was offered by Toyota on Land Cruisers, as was the integrated rear drum ebrake. All the rebuild parts you bought sans brakes will work, so you'd really only need exchange those bits to to the late 40 axle swap. If you can find the drum bits, go that direction. You win either way. Tucker
Such the optimist. Thanks. I'll buy soup for you, someday. Haha.
I can't find this quick, because I've not seen an actual pic to know, nor do I have any clue the spline count of the output shaft required for the TC brake.
Can anyone say of this is the correct drum, visually speaking?
It doesn't have a box, but it's speculated to be the correct part number, being 46501-60030, but could possibly be 46501-60031
the engine doesn't get hot. i'm pretty sure i could run half coolant and it wouldn't overheat. it gets to warm like it should and in the winter, i have to block the radiator, but i'd rather do that than overheat.
