It's a sad day.My trusty F gave it's all.Threw a rod thru the block on I-35.White smoke to the wind and a fine stripe of oil for the road.It died with dignity though...muddy.Heading home from fishing with a fine stringer.A moment of silence,please...Thank you.Now it's off to the parts rig to do a compression check on the lucky donor.Well,at least my brakes worked fine.If it isn't one thing it's another.
Death rattle of an F Engine
- Thread starter 74fjsemistock
- Start date
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Sad to hear..
Still have our fingers crossed on Son Derricks motor.
C Ya, Don
Still have our fingers crossed on Son Derricks motor.
C Ya, Don
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks.I may have it under control.My parts rig has an F in it.I pulled the plugs yesterday and put a socket on the crank.It spun VERY smooth.It has a new intake and glass bubble carb.New exhaust...ect.The radiator is removed already and the water pump.The P/O said the water pump was the problem.I need to take a good set of plug wires and remote start(no key)to run a compression check.From a visual inspection the engine seems to be in far better condition that my old one.No leaks at all.The oil and plugs are new.New dizzy,too.I've removed al the bolt ons from my blown engine.Intake/Weber,Header,Alt,starter,water pump,thermo housing,radiator and front grill.I appreciate the offer and all .I do have one question.On my original engine the the clutch slave is on the passenger side an the donor has it on the driver side.These are both 74 F 155.I'm not planning on a tranny swap and I realise this was a transition year for Toyota.It just seems strange to me.Any thoughts?Again,Thanks fellas.
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- #6
That's what I was thinking but,I'm a much better carpenter than a mechanic.I'm not scared though.I plan on a bit of down time on the swap.I'm going to paint the engine compartment and do a litlle custom paint on the engine.Dark grey/charcol for the oil pan.Lighter grey for the block.Black for the head.Still undecided on the valve cover.I want to be able to spot any oil leaks easily.Anybody know of a Good Hi-Temp paint?I figure I may as well do it right the first time.Either way I go...I've missed the cool weather so what the hell.Heading out Sunday for some wrenching and the all important compression check.I'll let ya'll know how it goes.Thanks!
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- #7
Okay,good news.Cylinder#1-130/#2-130/#3-130/#4-125/#5-130/#6-135. Like I said before,I'm not a mechanic.Am I correct in assuming this is a good start for a donor block for the F-155 swap?I'm snatching this one out on Wednesday and swinging it from the cherry picker as I prep and paint.I'm also going to replace Gaskets on head,exhaust,oilpan,front cover and side cover.I've decided to use the stock exhaust since it's all new and because I have a nasty crease in the front down tube of my header where it smashed into my engine mount that time I used the center divider of the Broadway Extension as an E-Brake.I couldn't get the engine to fire off though.The dizzy was stabbed wrong by the P/O.Set #1 to top and re-stabbed.Still no luck. Appears to be a crappy coil.P/O did some "wiring" adapting an Accell to a new dizzy.I'll take mine with me next time.I'm showing full time hot at the terminals(all) and thats with out turning the ignition.Ideas?I think the P/O was on the Ford production line because I sure see signs of electrical gremlins.IHGREMLINS I tried a few things but I had no luck.No spark to the plugs.That's the way it always is with my luck.Oh well...Thanks guys.
Compression looks real good. Looks like a good donor engine.
I found the points bad in my 76 was causing a no fire. Found a bad distributor cap on the 66.
Make sure the #1 cylinder is on top during the compression stroke. Pull the valve cover, turn the engine until the #1 intake valve opens/closes and then line up the BB timing marks on the flywheel. Set the distributor where the points just close and the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire. This should get you close enough to start it.
Good luck.
Dave
I found the points bad in my 76 was causing a no fire. Found a bad distributor cap on the 66.
Make sure the #1 cylinder is on top during the compression stroke. Pull the valve cover, turn the engine until the #1 intake valve opens/closes and then line up the BB timing marks on the flywheel. Set the distributor where the points just close and the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire. This should get you close enough to start it.
Good luck.
Dave
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- #9
I was TDC on the #1 with my test.Pulled the engine today... and the trans and T-case.Tomorrow I will use this case of engine degreaser and my pressure washer to get this thing cleaned up.Gotta hit Toyota and order a complete gasket and seal set.Thats gonna give me some time to snatch out my grenaded engine and clean prep annd paint my engine compartment.Does a 2 F valve cover fit on an F? Mines staight but Phil has a polished out 2F that is Perfect.
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- #11
Thanks Dave.My friend has a 2F with a heavier(thicker) cover.I pulled the Pulleys and timing cover today.I'm going to replace the front and rear mains while it's out of the rig.Pressure washed the hell out of it today and dropped the oilpan.Lots of old sludge down low but NO Metal,so that's a good thing.Seperated the intake and exhaust manifolds to prep for paint.Found a big wasp nest in the block after removing the thermo housing.I popped out the drain plug and tomorrow it's going to be flushed out.This is going to take me longer than I thought but what the heck...I'm learning something.I'll keep my foot out of this one.Decided I'm going to run the donor 4 speed too.It clicks in with less slop than my original.I'm ditching the header and Weber..This Glass eye carb is new but I haven't run it so we'll see.Carbs an easy swap.I have a K&N on the Weber and I always hated that thing.Too open to water so guess I'm going closer to stock.Toyota had it right for all these years so I guess I'll run with it.Thanks again and I'll be sure to ask more stupid questions soon.
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- #12
Brushed and rinsed with Acetone.1200 deg.Primer shot to the head and Block.Looks Great.Taking some parts to the Vat Dip.Black Beauty Media is coal slag and too abrasive.Even the back side of the part will retain media and release with heat to cause havoc on internal parts.Hitting a silica media on some other parts and shoot the primed with color tomorrow.Cleand the 2F valve cover.Looks sweet.Found my Donor has a lunched thrust bearing.Ordered that.The list grows.Oh well.Keep ya posted.Thanks.
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- #13
Got my new clutch /pressure plate and throw out bearing.I can't wait till the weekend gets here.I'm getting close now.I'm almost ready to pull my rig out there and start the transplant.
- Thread starter
- #14
It is done.Transplant complete.Looks great and runs like a bat outta hell.I have a leak on the timing cover and possibly the oilpan.Going to flush the engine(wasp nests) and give it a 50/50 of coolant.This engine has more power than my original.The power band pulls in 4th gear way stronger.I haven't put my foot in it yet.After all this work I kinda learned my lesson.It's so good to have it back at the house.I think I'll baby it for a couple weeks and then wheel it.Thanks to everyone on their help and generosity.I learned a LOT and it wasn't too bad but,I don't think I want to do it again.
Daryl,
Good to hear that it lives again! Tough way to learn some "mechanics", but you'll appreciate it more now than ever before. Keep us posted with updates-can't wait to see and hear it.
Dave R
Good to hear that it lives again! Tough way to learn some "mechanics", but you'll appreciate it more now than ever before. Keep us posted with updates-can't wait to see and hear it.
Dave R