Dash cover install

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 11, 2015
Threads
5
Messages
14
Hey Fellas,

I've seen a lot of posts about how easy it is to install a replacement dash cover. I started on mine and decided to replace the stereo also. BUT I ran into a problem. The speedometer cable is really short making it difficult to reconnect. I've not been able to put the stereo in because with the speedo connected I can't get the stereo into the slot.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Does the cable pull out further, I couldn't get it to go anymore. Any pointers would be great.

Thanks.
 
Without being condescending; you need to try harder, give it a jiggle and a wriggle and you will get more out of the speedo cable.
Yes it's short but there should be ample there once you've found that extra bit and you can manoeuvre the fascia around the gear stick.
We've all been there at least half a dozen times, now ask us how to replace the instrument cluster lamps....
 
Oh! Oh! I have a thread that talks about that! "My Tonka Truck"! It was updated today (by me)!

Yes, its a pain, but let me leave a quote from the thread, "You need to wiggle the dash a bit to get it loose, then squeeze our hands (or your kid's tiny hands) behind the gauge cluster to unplug the gauges. The one that scared me was the speedometer because I had little to no play in the cable. Just unplug and unscrew and you're good to go."

Check out the thread. Its a good one! ;)

That's the dash face. If you're talking about the dash PAD, I'm sure there's a few threads out there.
 
ok, think I can help...as i had a hell of a time getting the dash pad off for my stereo install....and really should not have been a problem at all, just as Crick60 said.

1. you don't need to remove the gauge cluster...just undo the five screws and slide the cluster forward on the steering column. There's no need to remove it. If you really want to you can do it after the dash pad is off.
2. Remove the glove box and the dash bezel. Both are straight forward, just un-screw all the screws.
3. For the dash pad there are 2 screws on each side - by the doors, the back one is slightly difficult to get to, but not bad. You can see them with the doors open.
4. there are two nuts now that you can access with the glove box removed and the cluster pulled forward. For the passenger side there is one basically in the middle of where the glove box is and the other closer towards the edge of the door. You can see them by looking through the opening where the glove box door was. Loosen them...you don't need to remove them, just get them loose.
5. the two on the drivers side are in the same location as the passenger side, just flipped. You can access them with the gauge cluster pulled forward...loosen these...leave the nuts on so that they don't drop down. the driver's side was easier to get to as the vents weren't in the way as much.
6. Next, towards the center of the dash pad are two clips (these gave me a hard time...only because I was concerned with jacking the dash cap up...you don't have to be). holding the dash pad onto the body...with the four bolts loosened you can slide the dash pad back towards you to free it up...don't go up and down as the clips are horizontally holding the dash pad to the body. You might have to wiggle the pad side to side a little...but what you really want is the pad to slide back towards you. once the clips release the dash pad is free to come off (aside from any wires connecting the radio to the wiring of the car).

It's really straight forward. Don't be afraid to pull back on the dash pad pretty good once you have the bolts undone. ( you can reference page BO91-93 in the FSM for some diagrams.
 
If you unhook the cable at the transfer case, it's easy to pull it up a couple of inches. Trying to force it or to tweak the plastic dash bits is a sure way to crack 30 year old plastic.

Generally speaking, it's usually easier to disassemble a machine far enough to gain easy access than it is to 'short cut' and try and pry a part loose. The repairs to collaterally damaged parts will take longer than any perceived time savings.
 
Guys,

Thanks a ton! Great advice. I'm gonna look at it again tonight and let you know how it goes. I have/had everything out and was reassembling, but couldn't re-attach the speedo cable with the new stereo installed. I'll give it another go with these tips.
 
Getting the speedo cable back on....now that's a different story again.

I like the idea of taking the cable off the xcase.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom