arcteryx
Supporting Vendor
This will be tech but also a shameless plug to the kit I sell. I have had this kit for over a year and a lot of you have bought it, but I wanted to post the info and pics on here as well for those who want to do this.
Also, I sell 2 kits. They are the same except one has an OEM Toyota labeled crankshaft gasket while the other has a NOK gasket. NOK is an OEM supplier for Toyota. The NOK is a bit cheaper but otherwise they are the same. I used the NOK on mine, but it really just depends on what my stock is.
Background- I had a bad front leak on my 94, so much that it was drip s few spots overnight, not to mention the front of my engine was disgusting. The garage did not look great after a few days. I proscranitsted on doing this but last year I finally bit the bullet.
To start, you need to get some items
After the rad is removed you need to remove the belts, then the fan /fan clutch. Refer to the FSM or look at videos on how to do this. I use a wrench and a long screwdriver/breaker bar to remove the 4 x 12mm nuts the fan clutch
Next you need to remove the crankshaft pulley / harmonic balancer. Use your Stubby impact here, puller was not needed.
I am going to let the photos do the rest of the talking since pics are worth 1000 words. Overall it is probably a 4-5 hour task going slowly and cleaning the parts. I am happy to report that mine is still dry as a bone.
Side note - on mine, the oil cover gasket was the source of my main leak, the crankshaft gasket was fine, albeit hard. However, I am debating on including the distributor cap o-ring in the kit to ensure the front section doesn’t leak. A year earlier I replaced this and is part of the reason why the before pics below show so much grease/oil/dirt. Thoughts?
Pic of the kit-
Before diving in
Remove the idler pulley. It is also a good time to check that it spins as it should .
Check the back of the harmonic balancer if yours has a line like mine did.
I did not take pics when removing the seals. For the crankshaft, I had a gasket puller that I used, but a screw driver will work too. For the oil cover, it was so hard that it broke in many small pieces when removing it. Also, when removing the 7 JIS screws, use a hammer to tap the JIS bit into the screw so that it is firmly in there. Then slowly loosen the screw. Rinse and repeat.
When installing the crankshaft gasket, a large socket is helpful.
I also used brake cleaner to clean the front of the block as well as some elbow grease.
Another clean pic
And another
Also, I sell 2 kits. They are the same except one has an OEM Toyota labeled crankshaft gasket while the other has a NOK gasket. NOK is an OEM supplier for Toyota. The NOK is a bit cheaper but otherwise they are the same. I used the NOK on mine, but it really just depends on what my stock is.
Background- I had a bad front leak on my 94, so much that it was drip s few spots overnight, not to mention the front of my engine was disgusting. The garage did not look great after a few days. I proscranitsted on doing this but last year I finally bit the bullet.
To start, you need to get some items
- Coolant- get some Toyota Red or similar like Zerex Asian Red, etc.
- CY kit New Toyota Land Cruiser OEM 1FZ FZJ80 Crankshaft Seal Oil Pump Gasket Kit - https://www.cruiseryard.com/new-toyota-land-cruiser-oem-1fz-fzj80-crankshaft-seal-oil-pump-gasket-kit/ This includes the crankshaft seal (the round seal), oil pump gasket (the thin black gasket) and 7 Stainless steel Torx flat head screws for the oil cover. This is an upgrade. Do know that the 7 torx screws are a little shorter than the JIS screws, but they worked fine, there is no issues with them.
- Set of NEW JIS bits. I used and strongly recommend the 4 pack of Vessel bits, part # C51MIXP4. You can get these on Amazon and eBay. These are a MUST have. DO NOT attempt this task with a philips screwdriver, if you strip this, it will ruin your weekend for sure.
- Crankshaft removal/installer tool. I got it from @CPACruiser. This may not necessarily be a must have, but it makes the job infinitely easier. I strongly recommend getting it.
- Digital FSM under Resources
- Stubby impact. This is not necessary but again was very helpful. I got the Earthquake XT from Harbor Freight. This is used to remove the crankshaft nut. Space is limited so the stubby was needed.
- Large 1/2” or 3/4” torque wrench that can handle 400ft lbs. I did not have this, but I do have multiple long breaker bars. I purchased the QUINN 3/4 in. Drive 150-750 ft. lb. Digital Torque Adapter from Harbor Freight. You need this to be able to torque the crankshaft nut. And this is where the puller from CPACruiser really helps when reinstalling.
- Numerous cans of brake cleaner or similar, depending on how dirty yours is
After the rad is removed you need to remove the belts, then the fan /fan clutch. Refer to the FSM or look at videos on how to do this. I use a wrench and a long screwdriver/breaker bar to remove the 4 x 12mm nuts the fan clutch
Next you need to remove the crankshaft pulley / harmonic balancer. Use your Stubby impact here, puller was not needed.
I am going to let the photos do the rest of the talking since pics are worth 1000 words. Overall it is probably a 4-5 hour task going slowly and cleaning the parts. I am happy to report that mine is still dry as a bone.
Side note - on mine, the oil cover gasket was the source of my main leak, the crankshaft gasket was fine, albeit hard. However, I am debating on including the distributor cap o-ring in the kit to ensure the front section doesn’t leak. A year earlier I replaced this and is part of the reason why the before pics below show so much grease/oil/dirt. Thoughts?
Pic of the kit-
Before diving in
Remove the idler pulley. It is also a good time to check that it spins as it should .
Check the back of the harmonic balancer if yours has a line like mine did.
I did not take pics when removing the seals. For the crankshaft, I had a gasket puller that I used, but a screw driver will work too. For the oil cover, it was so hard that it broke in many small pieces when removing it. Also, when removing the 7 JIS screws, use a hammer to tap the JIS bit into the screw so that it is firmly in there. Then slowly loosen the screw. Rinse and repeat.
When installing the crankshaft gasket, a large socket is helpful.
I also used brake cleaner to clean the front of the block as well as some elbow grease.
Another clean pic
And another
