cowl rust repair

[tm7302]

Has anyone separated the cowl panel/windshield panel? I've looked through numerous threads to see how they come apart but haven't seen any photos with that area taken apart in the restorations. I have rust primarily on the windshield panel (1) and the cowl panel (2) with rust along the seam between the panels.

It looks like it is a chore to disassemble, but I'm tired of finding water in the glove box, not to mention it dripping down the backside of the dash on the electrics.

I'm planning on removing the windshield frame since there is rust on the bottom of the frame as well.

 

[Texx]

I've done cowl rust repair, against my better judgment. There's no practical way of separating the two, it's a cut and weld process. I cut the windshield panel out and separated at the seam with an air chisel. Welded in new steel to the vertical part, then cut out the cowl piece and welded it back in, effectively creating a new seam and repairing the rust in those areas. Wasn't easy, or fast, and took alot of finesse to make it look right.

 

[tm7302]

I just looked at my cruiser, is it necessary to separate the cowl and windshield panel? Drilling out the spot welds and chiseling until they come apart does sound like a lot of work. What if cut out the two affected rusted areas...cowl and windsheld panel, weld new metal in. If the new cowl metal would exend to meet the windshield panel flush, weld bead would eliminate the rust prone sealed seam. Is this what you're talking about?

Do you have an idea what is underneath that area? Glove box, dash electrics? Shouldn't be too difficult to remove to make it accessible from the other side... Thoughts??? Thanks... Tom

 

[Toyo FJ40]

I replaced my cowl from the door jam forward. I think that was less work than pulling that section out would be. If the only rust you have is in the seam in that picture I think I would wire wheel it clean and use something like Por15 or Rust Bullet and then go over it with autobody seam sealer and repaint.



EDIT: After rereading your post if the panel is rusted through then I would try to cut out only where the holes are and weld in new steel. it's in a bad spot to get to from the back to paint.

 

[tm7302]

How did you remove the cowl section? I will wire wheel it tomorrow and see how bad it really is.

 

[Toyo FJ40]

Well you pull the trans hump and cut the floor from each door to the trans opening. then you get a replacement cowl (used) and cut it the same (I cut the floor about an inch behind where I cut mine original one for some overlap) Then you bolt the new cowl on, line it up, and weld the floor and door jams.
I got my replacement at cruiserparts.net for $350 shipped but I'm a lot closer than you, They're in New Hampshire.

It's alot of work because your pulling the dash and all the wireing, brake and clutch master cylinders and the steering wheel but I still think it would be less work than trying to pull that panel and replace it

 

[Toyo FJ40]

I would weld in patchs before I tried anything like replacing the cowl or that panel.

 

[tm7302]

I had to pull windshield frame to get an idea on how bad the rust was underneath the windshield rubber. It seems that the PO knew about the water leak and applied plenty of sealant in a poor effort to keep the water out. Needless to say, I now need a new windshield since I cracked it getting it out.

I think the windshield frame rust is worse than the cowl. I think that should wirewheel clean fairly well. Then frame will need new metal, how much remains to be seen. Since I had to loosen the top, I think that I'll check out the top/sides for rust and replace all the window rubber and the top/frame side gaskets since I'll have it all apart.

Also, the 27 y/o seats will get redone, from the original brown to a slate gray. Since this rig did not have a roll bar, I'll fit an roll bar with the jump seats.

 

[tm7302]

There is also the usual rust spots on the rear quarters, front door hinges, hood, etc... When/where does it all end???

 

[Texx]

It doesn't. Unfortunately, the first thing ever 40 in the states did was take a trip across the ocean. Once the seeds are planted....sandblasting followed by proper priming and paint are your best options.

 

[tm7302]

My next question is where I draw the line on how far I go. I know that I'm going to have to paint so... ACK!!!

 

[Texx]

Almost unanswerable. You're gonna have more rust pop up, it's a matter of when. Go as far as you can stand it, while leaving the desire to put it back together intact!

 

[chicago]

My next question is where I draw the line on how far I go. I know that I'm going to have to paint so... ACK!!!

Id ask what youre plans are for the rig?
Im doing this process right now. cut and replaced the rear 1/4s, did the same with the fender wells, any rusted through HOLES are either getting welded in or cut and replaced. The stuff that was rusty, but still had decent integrity to it is getting wire wheeled, the some rust converter followed by primer and paint.
Mine will NOT be a show queen, much less a stock rig. So, im not going to be that anal about it.

Chicago

 

[tm7302]

Plans for the rig...it was just about a daily driver on the days when it wasn't raining. I was getting too much water inside the truck. The intent is to fix the problems and then use it for its intended purpose, driving it offroad, not necessarily a mudder, but a solid rig on and off road.

I plan on keeping it stock for now (budget) but wouldn't mind making it look REAL nice. Thinking about bedlining the interior floor and tub. Once I get the underneath the tar stuff.

 

[chicago]

In that case, it seems that sky is the limit on what you wanna spend. you can buy a complete tub for 3-4K, or just replace sections here an there PRN.
Most of the spots you have pictured APPEAR to be surface rust. Not too bad IMO. Wire wheel it and get as much of the rust off as humanly possible, rust converter and paint. I recently picked up a rust stripping wheel that actually worked AWESOME for the suface rust. It chucks up in a drill. Looks like a coral rock or something. Might try it.
I had priced out the rear fender wells and tail gate pillars...about 350 per side. A bit much for me, but you might have the funds to pull it off. I ended up building my own. PITA, but much cheaper than 700.00.

Just like everything in cruisers....how much do you wanna spend.

 

[tm7302]

Replacement Rubber

Qucik question...I'm looking at replacement rubber window/door seals/gaskets, etc are the BJ42 seals the same as FJ40 seals? Specifically, with wing vent window seals. I think the wing windows ended with the 74 FJ40. Most of the rubber on my rig is toast...

 

[Toyo FJ40]

]I would just weld up the hole and wire wheel the rest, seal it with something like Por15 or Rust Bullet and repaint. You might have to look for parts in Australia unless your doors are like the 74 and older doors then SOR has the seals Window Seal

Good thing your wiper motor is on the wrong side. Wait I thought you said your glove box was filling with water.

 

[tm7302]

I thought that was odd too. When I took the windshield frame off the area above the glove box was rusted. Everything under the wiper motor was fine, although the PO had it sealed up pretty darn good with a lot of black goo. I'm assuming that water got in underneath the frame seal and worked it way into the glove box. I'll be replacing seal when I start putting it all back together. I've priced the toyota seal at $195, SHT!!!