Clutch's trains and automobiles (1 Viewer)

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Dec 27, 2009
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Cold Temperature/ Possible Clutch/ Gearbox issue

Hi all,

HELP!

I have a HZJ78 (2002) and the first 3 years - everything was perfect.
Around December 2005 I had something replaced in the transfer case - from 2 part to one part. At the same time, I had all the oils replaced....

Since then I have had problems changing gears in cold weather when the engine is cold (-10c). The biggest issue is that I can't move the gear stick out of 1st or 2nd gear without almost coming to a standstill while cold.

I have tried different gearbox oils, no luck. I have had the gearbox taken apart and checked - no luck.

Last month I replaced the motor and Gearbox, 1HD-T and H151F, and I have the same problem!

I have noticed that the clutch returns to the original position much slower when everything cold is. (With both the old gearbox and the new gearbox)

Today, I replaced the clutch fluid (took 1 hour in a warm workshop) and the whole thing worked perfectly! Almost like a sportscar.

After 4 hours in the cold - it was hard to change gears again- and hard to move from gear to neutral...

I am not loosing any clutch fluid, so I assume both master and slave cylinders are ok.

Is there anyway that the travel from the master/ slave cylinders can be adjusted or cause problems?

Could it be water in the slave cylinder? I did have the entire clutch system flushed...

Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this?


Thanks for any comments...

Andrew
 
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my hzj 73 1991 does to,-10 celcius of far,i start the truck, in cold wether i put the t-case in neutral and shift the 1 gear.two minute later its way better,it is long to warm up,engine and tranny,i will go synthetic gear oil next winter,i put synthetic in the engine for winter and my sweet 1hz seem to love it,its very cold here nortern quebec,matane gaspesie actualy,worth the extra cash to go synthetic in cold season i think,sorry for my english,french canadien,
 
Hi HZJoe,

Do you also have a problem going out of gear? From 1st to Neutral? or into gear?

What bugs me, is that this feature didn't happen the first two years I had the car...

Thanks,

Andrew
 
yes.leaving home in 1 gear,on cold morning,it is hard to get the 1 out and shift in 2.i have to double clutch sometime to get the 2 in.i sometime stay in 1 for half a mile help it to warm up a bit.its a truck, i use to drive a hino truck for 5 years at work,does that to.you said it went good for two year and it start bugging you,i cant help you,i bought my hzj two years ago 200.000 km,it was doing that then.i had a lada niva 4x4 and change gear oil and didnt respect grade of oil recomand ,become very hard to shift cold.give me update,ill give you some.good luck,let me know area you from.
 
More testing:

Foot on clutch - gear in 1st/ low - start car (Start car when cold)
There is no movement in the vehicle so I assume the clutch is fully depressed.

If I put the transfer case into neutral, I can change gears as if it where a sports car...

So my question - what changes when the transfer case is in gear, that I can't change out of gear?

Cheers

Andrew
 
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PS: Is there anyway to change the heading of an article - wasn't a very sensible choice initially
 
Are you running full synthetic in all the places? Like Transfer/Transmission/Differentials/Engine. I am installing the same set up as yours but have now moved south so to speak and am in warmer climate, most of the time. I still haven't driven it yet though since it is not done yet. When I did have the 13B-T/H55F/split case in Fairbanks we would have nice long cold spells and as long as the engine was plugged in it would start without any problems, but the drive train was still a little stiff so I would have to drive it slow for a bit till it loosened up. We would routinely see temps at -30F and colder for weeks on end. My Tacoma's did the same thing. All I can figure out is that Toyota uses tighter tolerances in the machining. As to why yours was looser when you first got it, don't know, maybe you had thinner oil than recommended? Or you drive train was well worn?? If you can put a oil pan heater on the transmission and transfer case this would probably help, but if I remember correctly it is pretty hard to get the right size to fit.
 
I bought this truck with 0km on it. -30F is a little colder than we get in Munich ^^.

The things that were changed were all fluids, and the 2 part transfer case shaft was replaced with the 1 part shaft on the R151F + case. Now have a totally new motor/ gearbox/ transfer case - 1HD-T, H151F, HF2A. Maybe everything is just that little bit tighter...

I will now do as joe suggested, and just let the thing run in 1st gear for a couple of minutes - with the transfer case in 'N'eutral...

I do not know enough about how the gearbox/ transfer case + drive shafts interact to understand why there would be more ?pressure? on the gearbox to not allow me to change out when cold...

Andrew
 
- Have also tried partly synthetic and non synthetic oils in the gearbox - Is it ok to use fully synthetic oils in the toyota gearboxes?
 
If you got new gear boxes I would probably want to stay with dino oil for at least 5,000km. Then switch to full synthetic. I have also done the start with in 1st gear and transfer in neutral, but most of the time I would just run easy for about 1-2km, by then things have loosened up enough to go faster. Of course I don't know where you live and work so I don't know if you have the luxury of driving slow for starters. Like I've said before seems from my experience that cold Toyota drive trains seem to be pretty stiff till loosened up.
 
The 'new' box has supposedly about 100,000 miles on it - out of a UK HDJ80 - so its not really new - had tried other oils on the R151F and that didn't seem to help.

Unfortunately, I start in Munich city traffic, so I don't have the luxury of driving slow to warm up.

At least the 2 minutes in transfer neutral seem to solve it for now - although doesn't answer why it used to be ok - guess I will never find that out.

Andrew
 

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