Clutch Vac Booster Questions (1 Viewer)

[CaptBeardilocks]

I'm swapping this 1HDT/H151 into my FZJ80 and am mapping out the RHD to LHD aspects of the clutch etc. I have never seen the Vacuum Clutch Booster like this on a manual before. Based on some minimal research they were JDM only? But not totally uncommon?

Are there advantages/disadvantages to them? Should I keep it with the swap or put in a non-boosted reservoir/cylinder setup?

 

[Feistl]

Hey mate,

They are fairly common in Australia (on the top spec Sahara models etc). It’s a personal preference really... I find even heavy duty 80 series clutches are far too light, although my daily driver is a LS with an extremely heavy clutch.

Having said that, I did decide to install a clutch booster in my HDJ80 with the intention of running a solenoid in the vacuum line allowing me to switch the booster on/off (basically if the girlfriend wants to drive it I can switch on the booster).

I did end up using a 60 series booster and master cylinder as it was significantly cheaper. The 80 series booster specific master cylinder was like $400 from memory, whereas the 60 series was like $60... I did have to drill a couple of extra holes for the 60 booster to fit.

Edit - one thing I do personally recommend is getting rid of the accumulator thing in the line... I know it’s supposed to help smooth clutch engagement but if you know how to drive manual I find the clutch feel significantly better without it

 

[Rock40]

I don't have one and the pedal is very easy, light to push. Definitely not required to keep it for your swap

 

[roalco]

Really glad I have a factory clutch booster on my '84 BJ60. For comparison, I've driven older manual 60's with no boost originally fitted (not too bad) and mine, both with (a joy) and without (a real brute) a working booster.
I know what I'd do, but it's up to you (and your left leg and foot.....).

 

[Rock40]

Really glad I have a factory clutch booster on my '84 BJ60. For comparison, I've driven older manual 60's with no boost originally fitted (not too bad) and mine, both with (a joy) and without (a real brute) a working booster.
I know what I'd do, but it's up to you (and your left leg and foot.....).

The HDJ80/81 pedals are quite different from an 60 series which is a traditional pedal pivoting on a single pin. The 80 series has several different pivot points which sort of act like a pulley and make pushing the clutch in ridiculously simple. It's a much lighter clutch than any other manual Toyota I've owned/driven (40's, 55's, 60's and an 84' truck)

 

[mattimooseprime]

I have it in my 80 as it came with it when I imported it. Its nice, I don't mind it. I'd say give it a go just for fun. it makes the pedal feel pretty light. It's also not terrible without it. very much a "luxury car" thing in my opinion.

you absolutely should remove the accumulator if you decide to use the booster, though. It will probably give out 100 miles in the middle of nowhere like mine did, letting you bleed brake fluid all over everything lol. it's also a completely useless part that just adds more to the "luxury" feel.

my old 300zxtt on the other hand, absolutely needed it's clutch booster. it was like pushing a truck load of bricks without it, and only a wheelbarrow of bricks with it.

 

[CaptBeardilocks]

Having driven the crap out of my 5VZ/R150 Tacoma I can say that the 1HDT/H151 set up with the booster is a bit lighter but I wouldn’t call it without feel. The difference is maybe more in the truckish nature of the H151. And in the full time 4wd. I pulled the front shaft out of the parts rig and had to move it and I can say that the clutch action was strangely much more similar to the Taco in 2H.

 

[BarnFab]

They fit and come on the LHD HDJ80's but you don't get the heat shields

 

[Wagchio]

hello Mudders

I´m replacing clutch master cylinder on my hzj75 (31401-60050) and need help with clutch booster push rod as even on its shortest length, it keeps pushing master cylinder piston a few mm . Is it correct or should it only touch piston?

thanks