Clutch Issues (1 Viewer)

[PWCO70crusier]

Ok...so here is what is going on...
1970 FJ40 mounted to a GMC 292 straight 6.

When I push the clutch in, the arm that runs from the slave cylinder into the tranny clutch assembly rattles. I tried to adjust the push rod on the slave cylinder with no luck. I have good pressure on the clutch pedal and both the slave and master cylinders are new...around 1k miles on them.

Here are some other things that have cropped up...the fly wheel does not spin down when I push the clutch in (this isn't something that happens all the time though, just more often than not). If I put it in neutral, the fly wheel spins, when I push the clutch in, it still spins and I can't put it into gear. This is also a problem when trying to down shift from 3 to 2nd gear. There has never been an issue with upshifting from 1 to 2 to 3. One of the things I did not do when I worked on the car was replace the clutch assembly b/c it was working great when I started. Maybe I should have?

Hoping its not a clutch replacement needed, even though I have seen some videos on how to do it, I don't know that I have the knowledge to do it well. Any suggestions or ideas are welcome...

 

[Stokes]

Sounds to me like the clutch is dragging, like there is some friction material hanging or loose in the clutch. The flywheel should always spin, its bolted to the crank. Do you mean the clutch assembly is spinning? The clutch will spin when in neutral and the clutch is out. Will it creep in gear with the clutch in?

 

[PWCO70crusier]

I did some more investigating this afternoon before heading into work. I think it has to do with the part that connects to the slave cylinder rod. When you push the clutch pedal, the slave cylinder rod pushes the lever that goes into the clutch (not sure what its called). Its loose for sure...it rattles inside the clutch. The fly wheel does always spin...so that is good. The clutch does NOT stop spinning when I put the clutch pedal in. If I go from neutral to first I can't b/c the clutch won't stop spinning...and I can feel the cogs against each other. I found the best way to put it in first is to turn off the car, shift into first and restart.

 

[black95]

Something is wrong with your throw out/release bearing. The clutch fork is directly connected to it, has ears on the bearing that hold it in place with clips. If the clutch fork is rattling/shaking, you either have bent clutch fingers, or the bearing is bad somehow. Might have been installed backwards. Either way, sounds like you'll be dropping that transmission.

It could also be that you've had a pressure plate bolt or two back out, is there an inspection plate you can take off to see if the pressure plate is running true, or if any bolts fall out?

 

[Bret]

Also check the pivot on the inside of the bellhousing. Either way you will likely have to pull it. Pretty easy once you set to it. I petsonally prefer to pull and install the drivetrain as a unit, but you could just drop the tranny/transfer. The 3 speed is pretty light comparatively.

 

[PWCO70crusier]

After doing some reading, I kind of figured it is most likely the throw out bearing. I'm wondering if I pull that bit out, if I might as well do the whole clutch, just for all new parts in there. Just have to weigh the costs of it all. Those 3 speed clutch kits ain't cheap!

 

[Okiewon]

After doing some reading, I kind of figured it is most likely the throw out bearing. I'm wondering if I pull that bit out, if I might as well do the whole clutch, just for all new parts in there. Just have to weigh the costs of it all. Those 3 speed clutch kits ain't cheap!

If you need a hand on the weekend to drop the transmission, let me know and I can come down and help (drink beer, point at stuff). I need to replace my pilot bearing Soonish...and I'm just going to go ahead and do the whole clutch and rear seal this winter. you are welcome to come up here to point and drink when I drop mine. I already bought my clutch kit a while ago (not cheap) from Cool Cruisers and it came with a free rear seal.

 

[black95]

Are you certain it's a completely factory setup? You have a Chevrolet engine mated to a toyota transmission. Might be some sort of adapted deal.

 

[SAS]

TJ and I did the clutch on the '88 Trooper this past weekend (total PITA, by the way)....so I'm offering my 16-year old son as indentured labor to your project...hehehe. Given the workspace around the FJ40 drivetrain compared to the Trooper drivetrain, I'm estimating he can have the tranny removed, clutch components replaced, and re-installed in about 4 hours.

OK, seriously...I think Luke and Bret diagnosed your potential fault(s) in posts #4 and #5.

I suspect the pivot point on the clutch fork, and the retainer clip(s) on the TO bearing to the clutch fork. These are the only things I can think of to explain why the fork is loose/rattling.

 

[PWCO70crusier]

I really think its the throw out baring. Its probably just worn out, who knows how long its been in there. Just need to save up to get the kit. Tracy...I might take you up on TJ...the FJ40 would be MUCH easier to work on...lifted and nothing really under there to get in the way. I'll let you know when I get things set up...

 

[Bret]

I will try to find my clutch alignment tool unless you already have one?

 

[PWCO70crusier]

Bret...the clutch kit comes with one! So should be good to go there...thanks for the offer though!