Build Clifford is home again- a 1965 FJ40 FST

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Fun update. Finally got this battery hold down done with help from my buddy @TheNeek. I wasn’t a huge fan of the generic Chevy unit I was running. This one is stainless steel and has added bracing underneath so it’s pretty darn stiff. With the large wing-nuts, I think the battery area is sorted. :)
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Step forward and back again. Got rid of the hardware store bolts and put on fresh OEM goodness. I was hoping the thicker 1/2” spacer I put on the tire holder would push the tire out enough to not hit the hinges but no dice. Thicker it is! :p
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Hey all! Quick question. Anyone have a good pic of how this section of a pre-75 hard door is supposed to look under the wing window? Mine looks to be quite messed up with cracks, overlapping metal tabs and welds (maybe factory?)! I want to make sure I get it back to the right shape.
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red66toy said:
Hey all! Quick question. Anyone have a good pic of how this section of a pre-75 hard door is supposed to look under the wing window? Mine looks to be quite messed up with cracks, overlapping metal tabs and welds (maybe factory?)! I want to make sure I get it back to the right shape.
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It’s very common for a crack to develop at the rear of the wing window. You will see a “fix” many have done using a bolt through the door instead of welding the crack.
 
pardion said:
It’s very common for a crack to develop at the rear of the wing window. You will see a “fix” many have done using a bolt through the door instead of welding the crack.
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Yeah there are lots of stress cracks in this door! I’ll look up that bolt fix. The outer sheet metal at the rear of the window is indeed cracked.
 
The overlapping tabs are stock. However, the hole in them is for the 65 and newer pivoting windwing, as opposed to the bugcatcher .

When I rebuilt the doors on the Karma Cruiser for the PO over 30 years ago, I drilled a few holes in the outer door skin and welded a 1/4” steel rod inside the lip of the outer skin to reinforce the stress points before grinding them open and welding them shut.

All the welds are still holding…over 30 years later.😉
 
65swb45 said:
The overlapping tabs are stock. However, the hole in them is for the 65 and newer pivoting windwing, as opposed to the bugcatcher .

When I rebuilt the doors on the Karma Cruiser for the PO over 30 years ago, I drilled a few holes in the outer door skin and welded a 1/4” steel rod inside the lip of the outer skin to reinforce the stress points before grinding them open and welding them shut.

All the welds are still holding…over 30 years later.😉
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Thanks Mark! Appreciate the confirmation on the overlapping tabs. Good idea on the reinforcement. I’ll add that to the main stress crack area.
These doors are indeed later hard doors. I had added them to the cruiser at some point when my best top soft doors kept getting stolen. Bahaha.
 
Another issue with these doors is one of the wing windows is missing the bottom pivot hardware. Looks like it’s all still available besides the little keyed stopper plate. Is anyone currently making a reproduction? If not I’m going to have a few cut since I need one.
 
charliemeyer007 said:
Seems normal to me for old pumpkin guts.
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Thanks! Yeah I don’t expect tight engagement but that seemed loud. Ill bust out the FSM and see if things are in spec and maybe pop off the rear diff cover. Just trying to figure out where the crazy clunking is coming from.
It did the same bad clunking pre transmission swap/rebuild so I’m hoping the blame is not on me. Hahaha
 
Remove the diff cover and inspect. Could be worn cross-shaft or gears, shims out of spec, R&P wear, bearings or setup. But overall pretty normal for an older diff.
 
Isn't there a differential drain plug. Or you could use a wire with a magnet on it to fish around the bottom from the fill plug. Small skinny splinters - ok to a point, chunks of teeth bad.

I think my rear diff has that much play. Likely some wear in pinion and ring gear and the adjustment spacing. I'm sure there are good vids for setting the back play and inspection of the parts.
 
cruiseroutfit said:
Remove the diff cover and inspect. Could be worn cross-shaft or gears, shims out of spec, R&P wear, bearings or setup. But overall pretty normal for an older diff.
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Thanks! Just placed an order with you for a rear diff cover gasket. :)
 
charliemeyer007 said:
Isn't there a differential drain plug. Or you could use a wire with a magnet on it to fish around the bottom from the fill plug. Small skinny splinters - ok to a point, chunks of teeth bad.

I think my rear diff has that much play. Likely some wear in pinion and ring gear and the adjustment spacing. I'm sure there are good vids for setting the back play and inspection of the parts.
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Thanks! Hopefully no chunks. I'll report back :)
 
Its normal. The spiders rotate on the center shaft. When the axle changes directions the side gears make the spiders slide on the center shaft and expand to make contact with the inside of the carrier case. You likely will have an 1/8" or more of rotation with the pinion too.
 
For the spare you may want to index it one bolt hole higher too. I used 1”x2” stock. My 33x 9.5x15’s were tall enough to interfere with the spare lock down lever.
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