Changing the seal is easy, getting the arm off is the hard part. Start soaking it now with Kroil or the like. This puller did the trick for mine, once I put clamps on it to keep it from slipping off.
Build Clifford is home again- a 1965 FJ40 FST
- Thread starter red66toy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #702
Nice!
Yeah last time I did it it was at my Uncle's farm and he had all the implements of war meant for tractors. Not so lucky this time. Definitely going to need to find a good puller.Slide hammer with a screw on the end would be my go to on this one if you don't have one of those seal pullers. Might take a few tries with the shaft in the way.Nice!
You are welcome to borrow my slide hammer - I am downtown a lot and can bring it with me.
- Thread starter
- #705
Thanks for the offer, really appreciate that! I'll hit you up later about that if the hook puller fails to work.
You can borrow a pitman arm puller from your local big box auto parts store. I was taught when a seal starts leaking it was likely because the bearing behind it was compromised.
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- #707
Looks like there is a bushing there and not a bearing. Of course its NLA.
FSM says the maximum clearance is 0.2mm so I'll check that for sure.
- Thread starter
- #708
Getting the running boards mocked up.
Hit a bit of a snag. The driver’s fender is a tad too low and it’s bolt hole won’t line up with the running board . I adjusted the fender up as much as possible but still just too low. But I guess at 62 I can’t expect its body to be perfectly square anymore.
I think the plan will be to weld up hole and just re-drill. Definitely getting excited though seeing them mocked up on the truck.
On the steering box. I noticed the lower bolts on the back cover were super oily as well and likely contributing to the leak. I ordered new rubber seal washers for them. I think the parts will be in this week to get that all button up.
Hit a bit of a snag. The driver’s fender is a tad too low and it’s bolt hole won’t line up with the running board . I adjusted the fender up as much as possible but still just too low. But I guess at 62 I can’t expect its body to be perfectly square anymore.
I think the plan will be to weld up hole and just re-drill. Definitely getting excited though seeing them mocked up on the truck.
On the steering box. I noticed the lower bolts on the back cover were super oily as well and likely contributing to the leak. I ordered new rubber seal washers for them. I think the parts will be in this week to get that all button up.
- Thread starter
- #711
Safe to say, the washer seals on the leaking lower bolts were toast! Old and new.
I got the new sector shaft seal installed. I think for these cover bolts I am also going to do a small dab of thread sealer near the bolt head to give a little extra sealing power. It seems like these may have been the main gear oil leak points.
I got the new sector shaft seal installed. I think for these cover bolts I am also going to do a small dab of thread sealer near the bolt head to give a little extra sealing power. It seems like these may have been the main gear oil leak points.
- Thread starter
- #712
Got the box resealed. Fingers crossed it worked.
While I was under the truck I decided it was time for new body mounts. Energy suspension kit is on the way. Seems like the most popular choice.
For the running board project. I was trying to figure out a way to have a captive nut in the center channel for mounting . I believe a carriage bolt is the usual choice but it seems like they can still spin and bend the metal when they put up a fight. I think something roughly like this should work. Going to have it cut up. It would slide into the channel.
While I was under the truck I decided it was time for new body mounts. Energy suspension kit is on the way. Seems like the most popular choice.
For the running board project. I was trying to figure out a way to have a captive nut in the center channel for mounting . I believe a carriage bolt is the usual choice but it seems like they can still spin and bend the metal when they put up a fight. I think something roughly like this should work. Going to have it cut up. It would slide into the channel.
firemanj92
SILVER Star
If I remember correctly, the ES kit includes flat plates in the hardware kit to slide in the running board grooves but it's been awhile but I also remember buying framing, sill plates washers (they are square) for the same reason.Got the box resealed. Fingers crossed it worked.
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While I was under the truck I decided it was time for new body mounts. Energy suspension kit is on the way. Seems like the most popular choice.
View attachment 4069498
For the running board project. I was trying to figure out a way to have a captive nut in the center channel for mounting . I believe a carriage bolt is the usual choice but it seems like they can still spin and bend the metal when they put up a fight. I think something roughly like this should work. Going to have it cut up. It would slide into the channel.
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- Thread starter
- #714
Oh good to know! I’ll wait until the kit arrives before I finalize the square nuts
- Thread starter
- #716
Cool! Well that should free up some time.
My mind did not equate the running board as a body mount. Good surprise.
- Thread starter
- #717
Been a slow week or so. Flu is working through the house and taking care of the family so things in cruiser land have been at a standstill. Waiting on a few more parts for the body mount project.
I finally got some 140W GL-4 gear oil in the mail though for the steering box. Seemed like a good compromise between 90w and thick grease. It’s like honey and I’m sure it will work great when it’s warm and can coat all the gears and hopefully not leak as easy.
I finally got some 140W GL-4 gear oil in the mail though for the steering box. Seemed like a good compromise between 90w and thick grease. It’s like honey and I’m sure it will work great when it’s warm and can coat all the gears and hopefully not leak as easy.
- Thread starter
- #718
Hey all! I need some guidance. I have the energy suspension kit and got one mount off so far. However the thickness of the new mounts doesn’t make sense. They look thinner than the OG squished mounts.
However, this fiber rubber pad seems like a shim to me and combined with the new rubber is a little thicker than the squished OG rubber. Is this really a shim I need to reuse? It wasn’t attached to the OG body mount.
I feel like it’s a shim to reuse but not sure. I couldn’t find any info on it. Using just the new rubber will drop the body significantly compared to the old mounts… that can’t be right, right?
However, this fiber rubber pad seems like a shim to me and combined with the new rubber is a little thicker than the squished OG rubber. Is this really a shim I need to reuse? It wasn’t attached to the OG body mount.
I feel like it’s a shim to reuse but not sure. I couldn’t find any info on it. Using just the new rubber will drop the body significantly compared to the old mounts… that can’t be right, right?
firemanj92
SILVER Star
I only used the OEM spring pin-clips in position #4 (which is the same retainer used for both inner/outer window door belts & rubber gasket in betwn the front fender/bib. The plastic retainers they sent are too small for the hole.
The 4145 is used with the 4146 pad and nut plates. The old pads are compressed at the center hole, which still is thinner than the new 4145's. Depending on the position it (OE pad) was taken from the pad may be the thicker 4144's. The nut plates provided are also thicker than the OEM hardware
1st pic is postion #1 (apron) and running board, followed by 2,3,4,5 & 6. This is the passengers side but driver's is the mirrored of pass.
I forgot to add, I did call ES for 2 additional 4143's which were wedged with the 4144 in pos #1. They sent them for free-superrrrr good customer service much like you!!!!
Our cowl was sitting lower than the fender line which helped align the hood position better.
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- Thread starter
- #720
That is super helpful to see! Thank you so much for the pictures. Cool to see that you used a thinner 4143 as a shim to help align the body/fender lines. Makes be feel better about my idea of a shim at least. I guess I’ll replace just with the energy suspension and adjust after should things need further tweaking.I only used the OEM spring pin-clips in position #4 (which is the same retainer used for both inner/outer window door belts & rubber gasket in betwn the front fender/bib. The plastic retainers they sent are too small for the hole.
The 4145 is used with the 4146 pad and nut plates. The old pads are compressed at the center hole, which still is thinner than the new 4145's. Depending on the position it (OE pad) was taken from the pad may be the thicker 4144's. The nut plates provided are also thicker than the OEM hardware
1st pic is postion #1 (apron) and running board, followed by 2,3,4,5 & 6. This is the passengers side but driver's is the mirrored of pass.
I forgot to add, I did call ES for 2 additional 4143's which were wedged with the 4144 in pos #1. They sent them for free-superrrrr good customer service much like you!!!!
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